i am working on a '69 Superbee and i am going to use Boyd’s True Blue Pearl for the finish coat. it is the first time i have used this paint, sooooo do i need to spray on any particular primer coat? i already have A/Bed it with neutral gray and was wondering if i need a different primer coat (e.g. flat white, silver, etc.) for the Boyd’s Pearl
any and all info on this matter would be greatly appreciated
thanks
I used roadster orange on this one
I used flat white as a primer just to make sure the color popped. If you are using a light color go with a light colored primer. If the blue pearl is a darker blue than the grey you used should be fine. I used a dehydrator to dry and cure my paint. It did take a couple of days to dry well. After a day it was still tacky. That is the case with most of the regular testor paints though. I used dupli-color automotive laquer to clear after the paint had dried for a couple of weeks. I did use the dehydrator to warm up the can before spraying. The boyd colors tend to be a little thick for my tastes. If you can find the color that you are looking for in the new testors laquer line I would use that instead.
its thick because its a enamul not lacquer. If you realy want the pearl to jump out at you should mist coat down the same shade of blue not metal flake or pearl just a flate coat of blue and the put this on top of it and the flakes in the pearl will come out even more. Also remember to count how many coats that you put on so when you clear coat it you can put at least 2 more coats on more then you did paint. So when you sand it out and polish it that you will not rub into the flakes. Also if you get dust or any thing in it leave it alone and dont worry about it. This is one of the biggest things a lot of people in 1:1 do not realy care for when working with pearls and Metal Flake paint. Good Luck and show us the final project.
I learned from experience using the Chezoom Teal, that you need to apply the first initial coats as thinly as possible,otherwise it will try to pull away from sharp corners.If it were me I would go with the suggestions above and also lightly ’ mist ’ on the first few coats till you get complete coverage,then step up to medium coats and so on…just my [2c]
Later on…
Personally,I say use a silver under the blue.It really helps the blue stand out.I painted a '68 Vette with the Roadstar Florida Orange,and it came out beautiful.With the silver as a “primer”,or basecoat,it gives the light something to reflect from and lets the pearl do it’s job.Somewhere on this Auto thread,you can find pics of my cars,and there are a few of the Vette.I also did a '70 Shelby Torino with the True Blue and I used silver under it also.The Blue really shines and sparkles when the light hits it.Good luck.
thanks for the info guys, as requested here are some progress pice
here i have finished the front and rear suspension
here i have added .022 solder for the brake lines, also this is the color that the body is going to be
right now this is the color primer i have on the body, i think i am going to take Vinniebird’s advive and lay down a silver basecoat
this is the typical tire detail, the lettering is hand painted on the raised letters
Nice work Gharlane,especially with the tire lettering.If you hadn’t said so I would have thought the lettering was dry transfer. What type of motivation is going under the hood? Just curious,keep the pics coming !
Later on…
Hi ya gharlane …
That is going to be one nice looking MOPAR … you did a really nice job on hand-lettering those tires. [swg]
Nice work there.
If I were you, I would do a wash on the chrome wheels, to give more depth and to eleminate the “toylike” appearance of the wheels.
here are some progress pics, under hood pics was requested so here they are
got the base coat on for Boyd’s True Blue Pearl i will post pics of that tomorrow
enjoy, thanks for looking
Call me different, but I’ve decided over the years not to use a primer on my auto models (unless it’s a red or black plastic, but for sure not on white or light grey). I figure the less paint on the model, the better from a scale point of view. I also cut all my lacquer and enamel-based paints (including Testors Boyds) with lacquer thinner - it tends to cut down on the drying time and reduces the tendency for orange peel. Whatever you decide to do, the absolute key to a great gloss finish is a finishing kit such as Micromesh’s. You’ll wet sand the final paint coat with progressively higher number grits of sandpaper (from 2000 to 12,000), then finish it by polishing the surface using a carnuba-based paste wax. Works like a charm. Incidentally, here’s that Boyd’s True Blue Pearl paint on a '69 Vette with no primer and polished out with a micromesh kit and modeler’s wax:
I useTester’s Aluminum plate (buffing) as a primer coat & mix two to one with all Tester’s enamels.That’s two parts paint &one part cheap Klean strip lacquer. I apply the Aluminum plate & immediately spray the top coat. This is the Donn Yost approach which has worked well for me.
I also put it in the dehydrator for eight hours @105 degrees.
Correct - cutting your paint is the way to avoid orange peel. You have to be careful if you use primer to only use lacquer based sandable primer because lacquer thinner has a tendency to eat it if it’s too soft when painting your colour coat. I use Meguiars’ No. 7, or No. 9 polish for a showroom shine - only on lacquer. It dulls enamel. I have a '93 Corvette concept car that I bought way back when '99? - I think. I painted this with Boyd Codington paint. It’s a medium metallic purple. I clearcoated it, but I don’t remember exactly what I used for the clearcoat itself - Testors? Anyway, it looks dull now, but I want to try Turtle wax to see if it’ll brighten up the shine. The colour is amazing - it looks like the car on the box for the most part. I just wish the windscreen would stop falling off. : ( < ---- sad face
~ Cobra Chris
I am also working on a model that I want to coat with Boyd Lime Green Pearl. I wanted to know if anyone has tried using a copper Alclad II under that. I am doing the old MPC 1/16 scale 63 split window vette. I have polished out the primer coat with fine paper and Tamiya polishing paste and am ready to apply the paint. I saw the post that says to apply the base (metal) undercoat and immediately apply the pearl but I have some concerns about applying laquer and the enamel right on top of it.
Yeah, I wouldn’t do that–you’re mixing two entirely different mediums if you do it that way. I think what the original idea about spraying an immediate color coat over the base metallic was going for would have been the ability for the color coat to “sink into” the base coat somewhat and bond to it, lending it, perhaps, depth? You’re not going to get that with lacquer/enamel. In fact, I would bet you would craze one or more of the colors?