I painted a couple of vinyl torso pieces on a Trump figure from the Modern US Army CH-47D Crew & Infantry set (the ones doing the fireman’s carry) a week ago, and the Modelmaster Enamel paint I used is still tacky. I’ve painted vinyl before, (obviously not this kind, because usually it dries normally) and it didn’t seem to need any special prep, so I didn’t do any here, I just put the paint straight on the vinyl. Is there any way to get the paint to finish setting? And what should I do in the future to keep this from happening?
The enamel paint is reacting chemically to the vinyl. I’ve had this happen to me. Even after soaking the parts (vinyl tracks) in Simple Green to remove the paint and re-priming with acrylic, it is still reacting after 6 months. The tracks are slowly melting. Someone else may know better why different vinyl types react differently to enamel paint. I’ll never use enamel on vinyl again.
Paul
I’ve used a laquer based primer, such as Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya Fine surface primer, and let it cure a day or two, then airbrushed the final color coats with acrylics. No problem at all. These were AMT vintage Star Trek figures, at least that particular material worked fine with this method.
There are two kinds of lacquer, acrylic and solvent based. Maybe acrylic lacquer will work over vinyl, but whenever I tried real (solvent based) lacquer primers over vinyl it acts just like using enamels- they never dry.
I have heard that Vinyl tires will react with the paint on plastic wheels, what might be the best way to prevent that from happening? Now I’m working on Trump’s M1126 Stryker, I have to assume that it’s got the same kind of vinyl as those figures, so I wanted to be careful.
I painted the tires with a coat of Tamiya black acrylic, inside and out, so none of the vinyl is exposed, there doesn’t seem to be any reaction, I think I’m outta the woods.
I would never paint my records.[whstl]
I have had little success with painting vinyl. I went through the usual enamel-lacquer-acrylic trial and error process, and found that there is no foolproof solution. I believe the plasticizing agent in the vinyl material is what is causing the paint to become sticky. My personal pet theory is that the softer the vinyl, the more plasticizer is in there, and therefore the vinyl is more reactive to paints. I aslo noticed that during warm, humid weather, the vinyl tends to get sticky. There are primers designed for vinyl available at the hardware store, like Krylon Fusion, but again I have found that even with a compatible primer, the topcoat paint can still produce a reaction. (Although I admit that I haven’t given Fusion a try on a model - but it worked great on a pair of rubber boots!) I noticed that the vinyl doesn’t really get damaged when the paint goes sticky - a wash of lacquer thinner will safely strip the paint off.
I painted a Halcyon Space Jockey with Floquil railroad (lacquer) paints, and had no problems for years. But now the model is slightly tacky. Using the same paints, I got an almost immediate sticky reaction on some electrical wiring for another project. I painted a Kaiyodo Alien Queen with Tamiya acrylics and had the same problem over time. I have also tried coating with Future and other clear coats prior to painting the model, but nothing seems to be 100% effective. It’s a real bugger of a problem, and has caused me to suspend building any more vinyl kits.
Sorry I couldn’t be of any help.
Mr. Surfacer 500 will get those grooves out of the records for you.
I recently tried magic markers on a vinyl part. Same problem as with paint!
I build many vinyl kits. I glue, prime with a Model Masters Acrylic grey(any grey), putty(usually a 2 part putty) and sand, prime again then paint. Mostly with MM enamels. But I have used Tamiya, Freakflex and Valajo with no problems. The key has always been with using acrylic primer in multiple light coats. Then you can use any paint on top and seal with any sealant.
I have done kits, large figures, AFV tracks, tires and even various “soft plastic army men” this way fro 30 years and not had a problem yet.
Diaguma, what do you use for glue? I have the Pegasus Nautilus on order, and the stand is a vinyl giant squid. I was very concerned about painting and stuff, and this has helped a bunch. Thank you.
Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
I just avoid vinyl models completely, after my experiences with a few.
I recently started a Pocher 1/8 scale Ferrari V-12 for a “Big Deuce” that I am rebuilding. The spark plug wires are black vinyl and they were loose in the box. They had started to “EAT” their way into all the parts that they came in contact with. Easy to fix but a pain none the less. I gave them a good wash with soap and water. It’s been a couple of months now and they seem to be OK . I hope they don’t start eating away at the sparkplugs they are connected to. Maybe I should take them off of the engine for now and wait till the car and engine are done before I re-install them. I think maybe I should put them in a plastic baggie until then.
Jim [cptn]
painting the wires with a vinyl safe paint, like an acrylic, should protect the plastic parts they attach to, just make sure that all of the parts that touch the plastic are thoroughly coated.