I am fairly new to modelling static kits but have been painting Games Workshop minatures for a few years. But when painting minatures you tend to over exaggerate the highlighting and washes to give it an almost cartoony feel. I don’t think it would look right on a scale model of a real object (bike, car plane etc). Plus it doesn’t work well on large areas. Anyway, on to some questions:
I wish to use Tamiya acrylics for airbrushing but can I use water as a thinner (being as they themselves are water based)?
When assembling any model in general, do people airbrush all the parts and just handpaint fine detail work (i.e. steering wheels/columns, brakes, cockpits etc)?
I have brought some Johnsons Klear (or Future). Should it be used just for the main body of a kit (i.e. shell of car, bike and fueselage of aircraft). And does it leave a glossy finish??
Can anyone also recommend good acrylic paints that can be used for airbrushing armour kits (or is Tamiya paint the best??)
You can use distilled water but are better off using isopropyl alcohol 90% as your thinner for Tamiya paints. For Polly Scale you can use Windex or Windolene.
I use Tamiya Model Master’s own brand of acrylic thinner, but I usually just use a drop or two at a time. I usually fill the airbrush reservoir about a quarter full, add a couple of drops of thinner, and then shake the bottle a bit. The paints go down very nicely in several light coats.
Two other tips:
(1) put a couple of drops of dishwashing soap in the bottle when you first open it. This breaks the paint’s natural surface tension and helps it flow better.
(2) put a couple of BBs in the paint jar and shake to mix the paint. I usually mix it first with a toothpick and then shake the jar.
Some people will caution you against shaking the paint to mix it, but I’ve not had any trouble.
Thanks guys for your input. My Badger 200 airbrush has just been delivered so I guess it’s time to start painting my 1/12 scale Red Bull Yamaha. I’m scared!!!
Occassionally I use window cleaner with good results.
In general own brand thinner is recommended though.
Tamiya, modelmaster, vallejo are all good acrylics. I like lifecolor too.
whats the obsession with Future in the us anyway…please explain LOL
Airbrush ready, self leveling, add a little Tamiya’s Acrylic Flat agent and it makes a great dull-cote, no unsightly smells like Testor’s dullcote, and most of all … cheap!
Hmm. I tried using that Future stuff that everyone raves about and I can’t get it to look ‘right’. When I airbrush it on it makes the surface look ‘lumpy’. Does it need to be thinned? Do I need more than one coat?? I’m afraid to ruin my first kit!! Everything has gone okay so far I don’t want to lose it now! Also when airbrushing with acrylics is it safe to leave the airbrush between coats (whilst drying) with the paint still in the jar? Or should I clean the airbrush after every coat??? Thanks guys.
Using Acrylic paints I always clean my airbrush between coats because of the fast drying time of acrylic paints. I just keep a bottle of 90% Isopropal Alcohol and spray that through the brush between coats, and also use a q-tip coated with it to gently clean the needle, doesnt take but a minute and keeps everything clean and my sprays consistant.
If that Polly Scale is acrylic then yes you can, but some people feel that over time the Windex can tarnish the chrome on the airbrush. I ues a mixture that a friend of mine told me about to clean my airbrush after using acrylics.
It is 2 parts distilled water, 1 part Windex and 1 part Simple Green. It works great.
hi guys i sure could use some help. what is the best way to thin enamels for air brushing? i was painting my tank model and noticed some thin spots on it where the paint ran cause it was to thin. is there a set formula to follow? thanks Ziggy
For enamels like Model Master I like to use a 2:1 ratio of paint to thinner with Model Master thinner.
I spray it about 12-15 psi through my Vega 1000 gravity fed airbrush.