I’m still getting the hang of painting, and I’m finally working with colors where fading and mottling will show up (in this case, USAAF Olive Drab shades, P-47). I’ve read so much and watched so many videos that the notes I’ve taken along the way are contradictory. I’m starting to confuse myself. Rather than describe what I did with a practice model, I’ll cut to the chase and ask: 1) Do you spray on the darker shade first, then the faded color on top of that, or… 2) Do you spray the faded color first, then figure out where to spray the darker, non-faded shade (e.g., panel lines, vertical surfaces, random areas)? Option 1 makes intuitive sense (dark paint fades to lighter shades), but seems like you could end up putting on more paint than desired (using light paint to cover dark paint). Option 2 seems to work better but requires a much better understanding in advance of the desired end-product (working in reverse, or working in negative space). Also, in regards to both Options, I’m not sure that pre-shading is really necessary. It’s handy, but ultimately a lot of that preshading work gets lost in the light vs dark layering. I’m sure there’s more than one way to skin a cat, but any thoughts or techniques are appreciated.
Sorry for the long block of text; my paragraph breaks didn’t show up in my post.
I don’t pre-shade. As for your question, I spray darks colors first followed by lighter colors.
Edited to correct: I spray LIGHT colors first and then dark colors.
It’s contradictory because everyone has a method that works for that individual but may not work for you. The best advise is to experiment on cheap models and see what works for you.
I for example, shoot the light colors first then the darker ones. Pre shading for me depends on what look I want to have on my model. Same thing for weathering. I may go back and shoot center panels in a lighter shade to enhance the texture.
Washes and filters also will also further weather the paint. For example, I pre shaded the bottom of this Stuka only cause most of the pre shading on top would have been covered by the three tone scheme. A wash of Yellow Ochre artists oils and turpentine gave the paint a sun beaten faded and weathered dusty look.
There’s no right answer. You just have to take it one model at a time and do whatever works. I’ve done it all and in every order. I think the only thing that really has to be done in the correct order is pastel weathering. Otherwise, do it however you like.
I have always done light to dark as dark colors will cover light colors much easier. If you are doing a mask with a hard edge it really won’t matter, but a soft edge or free handed camo scheme I always want any over spray to cover.
As far a pre-shading goes, it is still a preference. For light colored paints it helps add some depth to panels and the like. Search on some Bf-109 threads and you will see some good applications of pre-shading.
John
Oops, I made a mistake in my post above. I spray light colors first and then dark colors.
When painting a camo scheme, painting the light colors first is the way to go. The dark colors will cover better than light ones. For example on a Spitfire, I paint the gray color first, then mask and paint the green on top of that.
But, when it comes to fading a base color, the lighter shades don’t need to cover the base color. The shades are the same color, just different tints. So it is ok, often desireable, for the base coat to show through.
Thus, I paint the lighter shades after the base coat (option 1 in the OP). I honestly rarely see anyone use option 2 for fading or shading. The color modulation guys (Mike Rinaldi, Mig Jiminez) invariably use option 1.
Thanks for the replies, everyone. This helps me, mostly by knowing that there isn’t an absolutely “right way,” and that the answer lies in knowing the best way to achieve the effect you desire. In short: practice and take notes. Thanks again. Nice Stuka, btw!