Another newbie question. I’ve noticed in so many of the posted photos here on FSM just how perfectly painted everyone’s aircraft wheels and tires are. When I was building 1/72 armor some years back, painting the track wheels was a major problem area for me. Please let me know what your secrets are. I’d be eternally grateful.
Bill
A lot of us use pre cut masks for aircraft canopies and many of those come with wheels masks as well. If so thats what i use. If not, i just hand brush the tires after painting the hub.
Ya, what Bish said. I dabble in 1/144 aircraft which compounds the issue. Without masks, a steady hand and an optivisor helps. Though I’d still like to hear what other folks have to say on the subject as some of my kits look like crap regarding the undercarriage.
John, I’ve had exactly the same experience (in the same scale)!
The only tip I can offer is one which someone gave me: paint the hubs first, in whatever color or finish is required…then apply a black wash. It helps define the ‘tire line’ more precisely, and if you don’t quite get paint all the way to that line, it hides or disguises the gap.
But as you said, the Optivisor is a must…particularly for those of us of a ‘certain vintage’…[:D]
I paint the hub first, and then hand-paint the tire. I use a toothpick as an axle while painting. If the mounting hole does not go all the way through, I keep chopping the end off the toothpick until it is a press fit.
Then, I twirl the wheel while holding the paintbrush steady at the while-tire meet line. I find that much easier than holding the wheel steady and moving the paintbrush.
This is why I love newbies, they ask great questions!
I am currently in the same dilemma. I am building a jeep with trailer, and including the spare tire that makes 7 wheels that I need to trim out. Egads… shoot me now.
I have watched some YouTube videos on painting rims and I have not found a very easy way to do it. More than that–a way that comes out nice and clean. A small scale, a shaky hand = jagged lines. Doing a wash shows some promise but I am not entirely onboard with that yet. The video I watched had so-so results. What I’d prefer to do is us a mask and airbush. My kit is old, and it does not come with a mask, nor are there any aftermarket masks that I can find, so that leaves me to making one. I am still working that process out.
Here is a product I came across that shows some promise. I placed an order for it over the weekend. Once I get it I will report back on how it works for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9iAs3_oFJI
I am on a quest for better masking method.
For small scale circular masks, try this.
If you have a punch set like Waldron or a Harbor Freight knock-off; put Tamiya tape or blue tape on the thinnest sheet styrene you have. Punch a bunch of circles. Peel the tape off the disks, save them for another use.
I don’t mean to hijack this thread–sorry if I am:
Hey Bill–that is a good idea. That should produce a very clean mask. The only concern I can see is if the punch does not match the diameter of the rim. It might be a hit or miss thing. In my case–I will measure the rims and see if a punch set is avail.
Good thought.
I do all tires and road wheels the same way, paint the rubber first then use a circle template you can get from hobby lobby find the closest size circle and use that to mask the rubber while spraying the hub.
I remember fussing about this during my first aircraft kit back from hiatus.
Some have mentioned masks, and they work just fine. I’ve used them. But I somehow ended up doing just what Mr Don mentioned, a round toothpick as a holding jig. Gently twist the toothpick and the tire pretty much paints itself.
Have fun!
And heck–you can pick your teeth afterwards too. It’s a win win.
Boy, some really great info got flowing here. For a lot of years I’ve stuck to the toothpick trick, airbrush both sides of the wheels, then with a small brush, (size of wheel/tire determines size of brush,) I use very thinned paint to flow against the wheel rim surface, as I rotate the wheel. Usually there is enough of a raised ridge to stop the paint flowing onto the wheel.
I let it sit for a couple of minutes so the thinned paint can partially dry, to check for any places that need more paint. If it has good coverage, then I paint the remainder of the tires bare plastic.
I’ve had some luck with the little compass like circle cutter, making my own masks. I like Frisket mask material, easily found at drafting supply stores. Then I use the circle cutter and cut the mask.
Bare Metal Foil works great, just pressed onto the wheel surface, then with a clean blade cut around the wheels rim edge. These last two ideas allow airbrushing both the wheels and tires, that makes for a nice clean finish.
Patrick
Absolutely!
Hey Patrick, you just took this thread to another level. Bare Metal Foil sounds like a great idea. Does the foil leave any glue behind?
I use a circle template that i got at my local art supply house. They come in various sizes and i have yet to find a wheel that will NOt fit in the circles.
This is what i mean
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81EZr7TZWML._SX466_.jpg
Just make sure it is rigid. Dont want it all floppy.
There are alsop some great videos on Youtube about it. Check this out
**
Hi, Steve - The Bare Metal Foil has yet to leave any adhesive residue behind, and it provides a mask with enough stick to not allow airbrush spray to get underneath. It is quick and easy to remove from the wheel, the tip of a sharp X-acto blade lifts it right up. Hope it works for you.**
Patrick
That sounds good Patrick. I have some in my supplies, I will give it a try.
Hi Bill;
I didn’t read the other answers .I use two sizes of Circle Templates from an office supply place .I think you can obtain them at H.L.and HobbyTown too. T.B.
At lowfly and TB, I decided to go with the circle template(s). Watching the mentioned YouTube video cinched the deal for me. Thanks to all who replied.
Bill
Pretty much evolved to using Eduard masks whenever I can. Prior I used a black thin-tip Sharpie to run around the edge of the hub then painted the rest of the tire. I also used very thin paint and let the capilary action flow around the hub.
Still get a thrill when I check the sprues of a kit to find that the hub/tire are seperate parts. Huge relief!