Greetings,
After finally managing to create decals specific to the particular A-4E I was trying to recreate with the Trumpeter kit, and amazingly seeing that they came out of my inkjet printer just fine, and even better, they actually look excellent on the model…except the glossy portion of the decals throw everything off. It’s obvious that they’re decals.
If any of you more experienced modelers can advise me of the best way to make the decal appear painted on, I’d very much appreciate your help. As it is, I’m reluctant to shoot the model with Microscale Satin or Flat simply because I’m unfamiliar with them, and would hate to ruin this model (which was quite a challenge) after so many hours of labor.
Thanks for your help
This is where I find it helpful to make tesat runs on something disposable.
I’ve tried to identify the parameters involved in making decals.
Paper used.
Printer used.
Fixative used.
Heat of the printer, i.e. how long the printer has been on.
Time between printing and fixing.
Compatibility of fix with subsequent overcoat.
There’s other stuff like the resolution of the scan/ print file; the setting for paper type etc.
If you get that set, you’ll have a better idea of the results.
Thanks for the response. I expect that I’ll have to experiment on, as you say, disposable targets. I was hoping that Microscale Micro Sol would do the trick, but it doesn’t obscure the glossy portion of the decal. Is there an overcoat that does that?
Thanks again
To get rid of the shine, I overcoat with Testors Dullcoat. Then, if color is too saturated, I overspray with airbrush, with just the thinnest possible coat, the color I used under the decal. Helps avoid the “just painted” look. This does not work well for camouflage, of course, so there I overcoat with light gray. This is a case where less is more. If you put on that last coat too thick, you’d better do a lot of weathering, 'cause the faded decals will look like an old aircraft.