I’ve just got back from the local model shop after deciding I couldn’t go on using regular electricians sidecutters as spruecutters They work well but are a bit ‘brutal’ as I’m sure you can imagine!
Anyway, this is what I came back with…
New ‘proper’ sprue cutters / mini pliers, some Games Workshop Citadel flesh colour paint (imo Tamiya XF-15 flesh is too ‘healthy’ looking - so far all my crewmembers have the same complexion!
Also some distilled artist tupentine for use with oil paints, some graphite pencils of various hardness, some scale chain for my StuG, a decent metal rule and some Tamiya sandbags.
Looks like I’m all set now-the only tools I needed was a metal rule and decent spruecutters.
My question is thus; I’ve only used one oil wash before and it worked a treat (on my Cromwell). I used good old White (Mineral) spirits then. Would I be better sticking with this or using the artists turps? Does anyone have any personal preferences?
Arcylic washes over emanel fully cured base coat looks great going on, turns out not quite as good.
Enamel wash over Pledge with Future arcylic gloss clear is the wash of choice. Also the Future is needed for applying decals. Re-seal decals BEFORE weathering and washes.
3 paint ‘flesh’ or skin color:
Flat white, red, flat dark brown. Mix a pink color and add dark brown.
Try both out on a practise piece. I’ve found that both seem to work well but it depends on the oils you have. Turpenoid to me doesn’t seem to “mix” well with my old tubes of oil paint. It appears grainy. and doesn’t flow as well as plain old mineral spirits.
I can’t make any recommendations regarding the turpentine, but I’ll say it again, A live build is not the place for experimenting with something you haven’t used before. If it were me, I’d stick with the white spirits for the build and experiment with the turpentine on someting expendable.
Opps! pictured above is ‘flesh’ darkened with brown and red. Anyhow mix it up and don’t assemble line paint frigures. Keep each ‘character’ unique[t$t]
SuppressionFire - I only use acrylics now I have the AB up & running. I like to use enamels for figures alone as they brush paint a lot better (as I’m sure you know)!
Phil - Damn right, there’s no way I’m experimenting with this stuff on my StuG!!! I got a very old & cheap Sherman kit given to me which is terrible (no names)! I’m going to build the hull & turret only-no tracks or wheels and use that as my ‘tester piece’. I’ll put down a base coat and use different parts of it to try new methods on ie dot filters and pre/post shading etc…
In my limited experience with oil paint-based washes (Winsor & Newton), I’ve found that plain mineral spirits work the best for me- the brand I use evaporates completely and doesn’t leave nasty, shiny ‘tide marks’ on the paint… I tried a turpenoid product that was the worst thing I’ve ever applied to a model- it never dried and it attacked and ruined every layer of paint… Bad stuff, that.
For what it’s worth, I’ve never sealed an acrylic paint job before applying an oil wash… aside from the turpenoid experiement, it hasn’t been an issue (yet).
Yup, I’ll be sticking with the Mineral Spirits (or White Spirits as it’s known over here).
That Artists oil turps stinks like roadkill and that piddly 57ml bottle cost me £2!!!
I’ll just swap it against the next couple of pots of XF paints that I need!
Dre - re sealing an acrylic paint job I haven’t done it either. I have only done one oil wash so far and that was on my last build-a Tamiya Cromwell, which turned out really well. I sealed my Brummbar with Klear (that was painted with Humbrol Enamels) and it nearly went BADLY wrong. My fault of course, I didn’t let the Klear cure properly and it started to haze all over as the wash dried. Now I’m using an AB with acrylics sealing my builds isn’t an issue-just a tiny spot for decals now. I’m still learning so I’ll probably try Klear again on another build at some point this year.
Hinksy: Stick with the mineral spirits brother! You can buy it by the GALLON, CHEAP at Wal Mart…save the $$$ for something else. Some guys say min spirits tend to dry the plastic and make it brittle…I haven’t noticed that at all.
They work well but are a bit ‘brutal’ as I’m sure you can imagine!
