I tried a pin wash with oils on my F-4S for the first time. Put down a coat of future before and after decal application. Paint started to come off upon cleanup. I don’t know if I am using incorrect future. Researched online, the Future purchased at walmart. Appears to be correct. Could it be the q-tips are not soft enough and are rubbing the gloss and paint off wits oil thinner. Future was thinned at 50/50 with acrylic thinner. Anyone have this problem or suggestions for next time.
I’m not sure I reading you right so I’m just guessing, but maybe the oil wash wasn’t dry enough. I let my oils dry at least 2 days, often more b4 anything else is done to the model. I schedule the application of oils when I know the SWMBO has a hefty honey do list coming up so she busies me up with something else and I am not tempted to work on my model prematurely . [:)]
Or maybe it’s your oil thinner, I got advice from the good people here and use Terpenoid, an oderless turpentine, and not had any problems with it. I don’t think it’s the Future.
Thanks for the reply. The paint would start to peel off while applying the cleanup with the thinner. After further researching on this forum everyone is saying to use odorless turpenoid. I used oil spirits thinner. I think that might be the problem. Thanks again. Chalking this one up as a training lesson.
You’re very weclome Bro. I’m so glad to be a part of your success but I am just “paying it forward” relaying the info I have received from the many excellent modelers on here.
Happy modeling.
Jay
I use odorless turpenoid (Mona Lisa brand) for oil washes on surfaces painted with Tamiya acrylics, with or without Future. I’ve never had an issue.
Ditto that. I buy stuff made by a company named Weber. Over Future, no problem.
One factor I did not see mentioned is how long you are letting your coat of future dry, and more importantly, cure, before you start your oil wash process. I find Future (or its current derivative, Pledge Floor Care) takes longer to cure than other acrylic top-coat products. I personally use Vallejo satin varnish before utilizing an oil wash and after it fully cures I have no issues with mineral spirits lifting any of the varnish or the paint underneath. I let my Vallejo varnish cure overnight before hitting it with oil/mineral spirits. I have found Future sometimes takes up to 3 days to fully cure and thus safe to apply the oils. -Len
Maybe you are applying too much wash. Try to get it just down in the crack/line. If I do it right I do not need to wipe anything off- the wash stays in the panel line.
@ Len, I let it dry overnight. Could be not enough time. Will take this into consideration next time. @Don, I did apply alot as it appeared the wash wasn’t getting into the cracks. Wondering if I applied one coat too many of future. Bought some turpenoid last night, but it wasn’t the Mona Lisa kind. The Mona Lisa item at the Hobby Lobby didn’t say turpenoid. Thanks for your helpful comments.
Ahh Don, I see you haven’t yet discovered the new world of “filters”. Still trying to figure it out myself.
Maybe ya’ll could gimme a definition (or example) of 1. Wash; 2. Pin Wash. 3. Filter?
I was referring to pin washes. To me, pin washes and filters are two different things. I have not used dot filters yet- I either airbrush a translucent/transparent coat of different colors to get the effect, or sometimes I get the effect with dry brushing. But to me a pin wash is to create thin lines, not large areas.
I know that, I was teasing you. I am of the dry brush and pin wash variety too. My attempts at filters get biased by the knowledge that I am creating brown juice on the surface of the model.
Sounds like the pilot had a big ol’ wad of “chaw” goin’. He needed some place to spit!
[:D] Gary
G Morrison , could you tell us the name of the gear made by weber please
i use that too on Tamiya, MMA, Vallejo, ComArt (Iwata a/b acrylics) without any barrier and never had an issue with any of them.