Hi guys
I just did my first oil paint pin wash on my model ( I did it over tamiya olive drab ) and I noticed that the thinner has kinda left a halo. I just did it about a hour ago and was just curious will the thinner evaporate ?
thanks for the help
jeremy
If you did not gloss up the paint, the oil wash will not be able to settle on sharp details.
[:(]I didn’t gloss no. So the staining won’t evaporate?
i guess I will have to basecoat again and glosscoate?
Flat paint has open pores and will absorb the pin wash giving that effect. Try using thinner and a small brush to see if the shadow effect can be lessened. Otherwise yes you will need to shoot more Tamiya paint, then Tamiya clear gloss and let it cure overnight. Next day hit it with the oil pin wash and you will see how the wash travels into every sharp detail. Let it cure a day or so and then shoot clear flat.
Cheers, would future work as a gloss?
i was going by this video below also as he was saying he doesn’t put a finish over the basecoat
I found my bottle of future on the bench and was just curious if this stuff goes bad? in one angle it looks yellow but can’t tell if that’s the plastic bottle. Pouring some into plastic container and it’s clear
You might also take a look at the washes made by Flory Models. You’ll still have to put a gloss clearcoat on before it, but the application process is as simple as slopping it all over the model, waiting 30 minutes for it to dry, and then removing the excess with a damp sponge. The wash will remain in the details and panel lines and you won’t have to use any solvents…just plain old water, so it won’t attack your base coat or clear coat in a million years.
Future works fine, I use it too. Make sure you let it cure at least overnight. The guy in the video is using pre mixed enamel washes that dry faster but are expensive. Each bottle is a good $7. I mix my own washes and filters using artists oil paints for a fraction of the price and can custom blend for each application for pennies. What I like about oils specially when doing Dot filters over a flat coat is the superior blending feature oils offer, taking longer to cure so they can be fine tuned even the next day. They have a tendency to dry not completely flat so I shoot clear flat acrylic to seal things. When using oils for fading, rain effects etc, they blend better over a flat coat, over gloss they slide off with every stroke of the brush.
Flory is great stuff too.
Yup. Still love the artist’s oils too for streaking the insides of afterburners.
Thanks for the tips guys, I will basecaot my tank again ( I’m glad I just did a small test area ) then gloss with future. I have another bottle of future that is older but looks clearer then the newer stuff???
should future be thinned with anything or shoot it straight ? And what psi would work? I find my tamiya sprays good in the 18-20 psi range
I like Flory washes too. I noticed on a gloss coat it’s easier to remove and will stay in panel lines. If you want an overall dirty finish apply over a matte coat.
I don’t use Future much anymore, but when I did it shot just fine with no thinning and at the same pressures as Tamiya.
The pylon is over a gloss coat and when removed it’s clean and stayed in lines. The interior gear door is over flat and looks dirty. Both using Flory dark dirt.
You can shoot it straight from the bottle or hand brush it, 3-4 coats 10 minutes or so apart. Future dries quick.
cheers my friend, it’s been years since doing any real modelling and then it was model trains.
after I’m done weathering I can seal it with a tamiya flat like you were saying before right? Or testors dullcote? I use to like that finish on freight cars, just don’t know how I would on a model Sherman lol
thanks again guys for the help
jeremy
If doing filters over the flat finish then either use a Tamiya clear flat (acrylic lacquer) or MM clear flat acrylic. If not doing any washes or filters then Dullcoat (lacquer) is fine. You may get away in doing solvent type washes and filters over the cured lacquer but I rather not risk it.
thank you, just to clear it up ( I’m sleepy so maybe not reading right )
put down basecoat
gloss model so I can add pinwash
flat coat with tamiya
problem with putting oils over testers dullcote is oil thinner would possibly remove the dullcote and make a mess right ?
Suggest Vallejo acrylic satin varnish to seal your base paint before weathering. An acrylic satin varnish is a good finish for oil and enamel based washes…you’ll avoid those dreaded halos.
A matt surface does work well with oils if you do not apply the wash too wet…check Michael Rinaldi YouTube videos…he explains his method which is part of his Oil Paint Rendering (“OPR”) techniques. It takes some time to learn but does give very good results.
I do most of my weathering using artist oils.
sounds right