Hello,
I know this is a painting subject but I figure the armor guys would know best as to what oil colors are best on olive drab to simulate rain streaks and such. Or Any other ideas would be of big help in the weathering of old Shermans.
Thanks.George
For rust streaks I use the new range of MIG Abtielung oils and Windsor & Newton oils too. I’ll use a thin piece of wire, put a tiny dot of Sienna/Umber oil (whatever looks like the type of rust streak you want to recreate), I’ll put a dot of oil on the rivet etc that I want to make the run from and I’ll I’ll dip a very thin brush i.e. 000 into Artists odourless tupenoid or Artist odourless White Spirit. Using the brush with turpenoid or sprit on it streak the oil dot down the sides. It’s very easy-just remember that the oil is strong and very ‘powerful’ and can easily make a mess of a good paint job!
For water/rain streaks & grese stains around filler caps & on top of engine areas I use MIG ready to go stain products-they work great!
HTH & ATVB
Ben [t$t]
I have a question or two.
When you say old Shermans, do you mean that you want one sitting abandonedsomewhere in Europe (like the crew just got out and left, and the tank hasn’t moved in 65 +years)? Or do you mean you want a Sherman in a museum that’s overdue for a repaint? There’s a big differance between the two, and I would like clarification before I respond.
Hey,
Sorry, I want the Sherman Tanks that I am about to start putting together to look like they did after a couple of years during WWII . I will be doing some from the ETO and some from the PTO . It looks like they will all be the Olive Drab XF-62 Tamiya Acrylic paint.
Thanks, George
I’m sorry that I can’t be that big of help. My models are mainly knocked-out tanks, (long)abandoned vehicles, and vehicles overdue for a re-paint. Try to contact The Doog, I think he had an article or two in the FSM about the streaking methoods you want (if the article I’m thinking of was really written by him)
If it will help more, I beleave the 1st place article in the Be an Author contest had a part 2, outlining streaking I think it was about a Tiger I (the Tiger that was most famous for having neumerous photo shoots because of it being stuck in the mud, Twice) I hope these leads help.
Yes, I agree with Hinksy on the sienna/ umber oils for rust. HOWEVER, for rain marks as you mentioned, youll want to randomely disperse some larger dots on the surface, and blend them vertically (and slowly) as Hinksy described. You, however, will [for rain marks] want to primarily use white and brown (or tan). Its for subtle color modulation, so any colors other than like reds or black will suit your tank well. any color that’s a component of your base colors (plus white) will work well. AND, about messing up your paint job, there is NO WAY the oil-based stuff mentioned could harm an ACRYLIC base coat, so if you’ve used acrylic paints, then don’t worry! Go for it!
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Yes, I agree with Hinksy on the sienna/ umber oils for rust. HOWEVER, for rain marks as you mentioned, youll want to randomely disperse some larger dots on the surface, and blend them vertically (and slowly) as Hinksy described. You, however, will [for rain marks] want to primarily use white and brown (or tan). Its for subtle color modulation, so any colors other than like reds or black will suit your tank well. any color that’s a component of your base colors (plus white) will work well. AND, about messing up your paint job, there is NO WAY the oil-based stuff mentioned could harm an ACRYLIC base coat, so if you’ve used acrylic paints, then don’t worry! Go for it!
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Should I apply the future coats first before doing the oil paint weathering?
Thanks,George
If you only use acrylic prior to the oil, you won’t need a coat of Future unless you’re using the Future to apply decals. If you want to use Future to reduce decal silvering, you can do a coat of Future prior to the oil washes. However, Future dries glossy so you will need to put a dullcoat overtop of it.
So I’d recommend just putting the oil washes right on top of the acrylic.