Here are a few pics for your review. This is my first completed model in many years. The model is an ACE kit built out of the box with the exception of having to rebuild the fenders, braces and barrowing the machine gun from the Roden Stallin kit. The lenses are MV products. I followed the T-55 build at ‘On The Way’ website and lots and lots of builds / tutorials here on this site to try and put together my model and have it hopefully come out looking somewhat like the fantastic armor stuff that most of you people here at this site put together.
I still have a long road ahead of me before my stuff comes out as good as many of you builders. Thanks so much for all of the inspiration from everyones work here on this site. All comments and suggestions are of course, welcome. . .
-Eddy[:)] Oh! How do I go about to obtain my Soviot Union GB badge?
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer for plastic and metal (light gray) air spray (to protect, seal
and asure that paint will adhere to metal parts and to provide a uniform base color for an
even appearance of the finishing coats of paint).
Air brushed Testers Model Master Acrlic Russian Green (semi-gloss) + Insignia White (flat)
at 85/15% mix ratio (for scale lighting). Use either Model Master Acryl Thinner or Liquitex
Flow-Aid to reduce the mix to the consistancy of milk to improve flow, blending, leveling and
obsorption.
The same colors used again but at a 50/50% mix ratio and applied only to all upper horizonal
and vertical surfaces in a cloudy / patchy pattern to areas that are exposed to the sun.
Tinted overall wash of Turpenoid and Ivory Black oil paint applied with a brush (soot).
A filter coat of Yellow Ochre and a pinch of Ivory Black oil paint to crate a light brown applied
with a brush to all surfaces. (Careful adding to much black to the mix as it can easily turn to
an olive drab color). Adding a couple of drops of Gloss Varnish and Refined Lenseed Oil
with a tooth pick to the mix will help maintain a good semi-gloss appearance after drying
and aid in the flow and transparency of the oil colors.
A final brushing of Yellow Ochre to highlight horizonal and vertical surfaces (dot method).
You may add some oil or enemal white paint to the Yellow Ochre for further highlighting.
I use a good quality number 6 shader brush as I find this an ideal size to work with in this
scale. You will have to wait a day or two between coats when working with oils. You will be
able to follow the final coat with localized pin washs to add depth to the model. I use
Sepia Extra oil paint at a 20% oil paint to thinner ration with a number 0 brush.
There is enough of a gloss finish to apply your decals at this point but you may wish to
brush apply a localized S.C. Johnson Acrlic floor wax to avoid silvering as this is self leveling
and can easily be applied very thin to the area and blended in to the already glossy surface
without having to cover the entire model.
Now your ready for the rain streaks, paint chips/scapes, rusting and weathering.
Thanks for the info concerning the badge and thanks for stopping by and looking at my model and to all of you who have shared some comments and also those who have dropped in too!
