Here are a couple of pics of my progress with the Tamiya Acura NSX I am building for the Tamiya/Con Boxstock competition. I am also building a Mercedes CLK GTR, but haven’t progressed far enough to post anything valuable.
Hopefully the UPS guy will deliver my new Omni 5000 tomm. so I can get started on the body…I’m also waiting for a second NSX kit, 'cause I shot the rims and firewall trying to dechrome them. Needless to say it turned out to be a puddle of plastic. Any comments are welcome! If you"re interested Ive also posted a bonanza in the Aircraft forum! Thank you!!!
The NSX is a very cool car … I see two or three 1:1 NSX’s on the streets … mostly in nice weather … in my part of the world. They really look nice [swg] !!!
Your scale NSX is looking good too … [8D] … thanks for sharing … and good luck in the contest … please post some more pics when you can … and keep up informed as to your entry in the Tamiya contest.
kik36,
Looks really nice! Very good job building. I would offer one thing, though. Not trying to be picky, but if this is going to be contest material, you need to take care of the seams on top where the blue springy things are located, and I also noticed ejector pin marks on what appears to be the exhaust headers (from the lower picture). Of course, if all this is going to be covered by the body and invisible, then don’t worry about it. Good luck in the contest!
Thanks Gip, you’re right, I didn’t even realize that they look at that. I’m a little embarassed to say that I didn’t even really know what ‘pin ejector marks’ were exactly…Thank you for pointing that out to me. Luckily, the body will obscure almost everything here…so I will definately keep a close eye on that stuff in the future!! BTW, any ideas on how to get rid of those marks would be helpful!!
Ejector pin marks can be trying at times especially on small visible parts. I try carefully sanding them before they are painted, generally that works. Can be hard to do in tight spaces though, which is why I try to do it before its painted and glued.
Kik,
Depending on how deep they are you can putty or superglue over them then sand. Sometimes a small disk of styrene sheet glued in place and sanded will also help even out the part. In really tight areas bounded by vertical surfaces, I simply fill with superglue or Elmer’s white glue and forget about it. If there are lots of marks on a part (Italeri is notorious for this), cut a piece of styrene sheet to fit and glue it in place. A good example would be the bottoms of fenders on tanks…
Experiment, find out what works for you in a given situation, and go with it…
I was working on a couple different projects here this week. One being the ERTL Knight Rider kit and the other one being the Testors Roswell UFO kit…The crew tub of the UFO is plagues with those stupis ejector pin sink holes and in very tight places that really can’t be sanded too easily,so I just took some primer grey paint on a small brush and touched the brush to the surface,and let the surface tension draw the paint into the recessed dents,and self-level itself.
It takes a couple times of light touches, but in the end,with controlled paint pooling in the holes,the liquidiity of the paint alllows for minimal sanding if any when it’s dry. yes…the paint will shrink a bit, so it will take a couple applications…give it a whistle and see what ya think.
…me again…also…with the paint, if any sanding is needed, the paint is soft enough that any build up or inconsistencies can easily be wet sanded away pretty fast.
One thing that removes chrome plating REALLY fast is industrial grade aircraft stripper…
it will also weld your retina to your eyelid if you splash it…okay…don’t try this at home.
