Very interesting camo Ben,Nice technique.
I think I can get Blu-tack or at least an equivalent here, but thank’s for the offer! I normally freehand the cammo, and I’m happy with the results, so I think I’m going to stick [haha punny] to that for now, although it may be a bit more work.
Great job so far. [Y]But just a word of advice: if I were you, I’d not try anything too adventurous relating to the weathering, because you’ve already got some fine methods. Also, chipping with a brush is FAR more difficult than I would have imagined. It’s extremely tedious, and it’s very difficult to get good results. Try it on something else before attempting it on your JP. Looking great!
Its looking really nice, Ben. A bit of weathering will really make it pop.
As far as Silly Putty, I have seen several of the Sci-Fi/Fantasy figure painters use it to very good effect.
Hey Ben,
Camo looks good.
If you want a softer edge, don’t press the putty down flat (leave some overhang - the higher the overhang, the softer the edge) and don’t spray under the overhang - spray from the putty side and allow the overhang to do its job.
Hello folks,
I need to experiment with the whole putty thing as I tried this (what Phil_H has said) and it still came out very hard edged.
This has turned out fine for me just doing it freehand - the only part that I masked was the front glacis area and I wasn’t impressed with the results. The freehand on the rest of the build is so much better - it has the soft edged apperance that I was after but still has that factory applied look about it.
If I need a proper hard edged scheme in the future I’m going to try Tamiya tape with curves etc cut in it with scissors. I’m also going to try some silly putty. A lad at work has some and is going to bring it in for me.
Cheers guys,
ATVB
Ben [:D]
I have just noticed that you have used Blue-Tac. You might want to try White Tac instead. It’s alot easier to use than Blue tac for masking. I have looked for Silly Putty here and have only found it on Amazon, but not sure if its the same one they use in the US.
So, you are going to give Silly Putty a shot? I guess the mini-side conversation on it’s masking abilities has made you curious.
I havn’t found Blu-tack, but I have found another kind of poster putty I’m going to try. (I’ll finally bring out a junker model, and test both silly putty as well as poster putty, and see which one I like better)
Here’s to a sucessful result for both of us[bgr]
One thing you could try would be electrical tape. masking tape, even tamiya, turnes out a bit weirdly uneven on teh edges. electrical tape doesnt. But i don’t know if it could hurt the finish. I think ill try it sometime because it has really smooth hard edges.
Hello folks,
Bish: I’ve got some White Tack too! I didn’t know there was a difference (apart from the colour) so perhaps I’ll try that next time.
Ryan: Electrical tape would work but like you I’m unsure of any damage it would do. It would probably leave a light tacky residue which could be a PITA.
I think a sheet of plastic, some various masking materials and the AB is called for. Just need to find Silly Putty again now! I used to have it as a nipper but haven’t seen it for years. Most kids in the UK these days tend to play with guns, knives and drugs so perhaps that’s why Silly Putty has lost it’s appeal [:(]
FSM UK users - any suggestions for sourcing Silly Putty?
ATVB
Ben [:D]
Good afternoon guys,
Righto, back to the JP after a Godawful week at work!
At present I’m painting tools and some stowage and have applied my first gloss coat in preparation for washes and decals which im about to do now (decals).
I’ve sat back and looked at this colourful, stripy monster and I feel ‘lost’, in as much I have no idea how to tackle this build. I don’t know what to do re weathering on top of these colours and am, at the minute, just scratching my head!
Can anyone offer any gems of inspiration or even just advice on tackling weathering on a colour scheme like this? Even though the paint scheme is a week old and has 3 layers of SIN Filter on it it still looks new-not aged or blended. How can I overcome this - will a wash help.
Regarding an all over wash what colour are we talking on a base coat NATO Green and cammo on top consisting of Red Brown and Dunky Yellow? I was thinking Burnt Umber and a very dark N&W ‘Paynes’ Grey for pinwashing-it’s a shade or two lighter than black.
Her she is so far. This picture was taken after one application of Tan Filter. She’s had 3 now so the colours have knitted together a bit more since the photo…
I haven’t had this awful modellers block feeling before - what to do! HELP!
Many thanks,
Ben [:D]
To be honest i had never heard of silly putty until i came on here. We used to have plastacine. The only place i could find it was amazon,
But i have no idea if its the same stuff.
Hey Bish,
That’s great and all I needed matey!
ATVB & many thanks,
Ben [:D]
Keep me posted on how you find it. I ahve used white tac, but it was awkward to gedt off. I have been in two minds if i should try this silly putty.
First do the decals, then add another gloss coat over the decals to protect them (just in case).
If the gloss coat is acrylic, you could use an oil dot filter, or try a raw umber oil wash. That’s what I’d do. Filters are useless compared to washeds in my opinion.
Looks great so far!
Thanks Ryan,
I’ve just sealed the decals in with a second spray of gloss. I’m going to to try a dot filter on the sloping front glacis to see what effects I can manage - any rust streaks will be done via tiny oil dots and pulling at them with a 000 brush humidified with W&N Artist White Spirits and rainwater streaks will be done with MIG rainmark effects.
ATVB
Ben [:D]
Hey chaps,
So far - so very good (imo)! The wash (W&N Raw Umber thinned with W&N Artists White Spirits) has worked beautifully. Not too dark, I’d even go as far to say just right [Y]
One question: I have the front hatch posed open as I’ll be using the figure and I’ll also have the rear escape hatch at least open a little bit but what colour to paint the insides?
- Inside of hatches - ivory or hull red?
- inside of escape hatch - ivory, hull red or the same cammo scheme colours as to avoid the escape door being seen when opened?
I’d really appreicate your suggestions guys?
ATVB & many thanks,
Ben [H]
Good evening folks,
Just a quick update…
Gloss coat applied and decals on, a light wash of Burnt umber applied all over and some accessories painted (inc. jack black painted and fitted-I’ll be graining that tomorrow).
Also, spare track links fitted and rusted - I’ll work on them a bit more when I get t (they are spare Fruils from my last Panther build) and I’ve painted the ‘flame damper type’ rear exhausts in Gunze ‘Burnt Iron’ which I’ve just got in the post today - what a beautiful colour!
Tomorrow I’ll be getting the tools fitted and pinwashes applied and then I’ll look at some light chipping and weathering etc next week before I get the dullcoat, pigments & wheels and tracks sorted.
She’s loking VERY nice from this end. Obviously she’s very glossy at the minute - sorry if the photos aren’t the best!
This ‘131’ decal silvered quite badly? All the others are fine?
Here’s a back end shot. I’m really taken with the finish that this Gunze Burnt Iron provides. I brushed on and stippled a layer of Mr Surface 500 before painting. With some rust these should look sweet!
Thanks for loking guys,
Hopefully by this time tomorrow I’ll have all the tools in place at the very least (I’m working from home tomorrow covering the weekend work phone so hopefully it will be a quiet one).
ATVB,
Ben [t$t]
Gotta agree with you Ben - She really is looking nice. Keep on modeling!
She looks really nice. As for your question about the inside of hatches, by this stage of the war, go for red primer.
There is only one thing i would pick, and this is a bit of a personal thing, but the rust on the spare tracks seems very over done. Some people go on about rust on AFV’s, but i use hardly any if at all. And real trcak link are protected by a black covering, almost like tar, which stops them rusting. And once they are in use on the running gear, this wears off but usage stops them rusting. In 12 years on Warriors i never saw spare tracks that rusty.
But other than that [Y]
Moving right along with this one Ben! Concur with Bish’s advice on the hatches…red primer would be the most likely scenario given the features and production time in question.
One other suggestion would be to paint the copper wire that Tamiya provides for the side…it’s a nice touch detail-wise but the bare copper stands out. TBH I’m not 100% sure what the wire was used for on the actual vehicle but would suggest painting it perhaps with the same burnt iron you’ve used on your exhausts so that it doesn’t stand out so much. [;)]