Bought a TiberTec compressor about 3 months ago. Hoped to move up from those battery powered 'nail/cake compressor. It came with and airbrush, no brad name and no manual. 3 needles. .2, .3 and ,5 with corresponding nozzles. I’m having no luck getting a consistent flow out of any combination. I’m using acrylics, Tamiya, AK and some squadron. Using flow improver ad thinning to manufacture’s spec with their thinner.
I can only describe the problem as an all or nothing. Either the brush is kicking out paint or suddenly stops. I also notice that these needles are forked at the end. Is this common?
Is there a better entry airbrush that won’t brake the bank that is significantly better than the low cost ones on Amazon?
Here’s my take on airbrushing for those that are new to it. In no particular order…
1- don’t waste time painting with anything other than paint
2- buy a quality brand airbrush from the beginning - No-Name, Gaahleri, Badger, GSI Creos Mr Hobby - and get quick disconnect connectors for it
3- get a compressor with a tank and moisture trap as a kit
4- buy a 1:24 scale semi trailer to practice on. You’ll be able to practice on a model with decals and clear cotes, and really test product and improve your skill at the same time
5- don’t waste time with paint that’s not “airbrush ready” - you want to pour the paint in the cup and start spraying. Taking the time to mix paint each time before spraying will just add complexity that’s not necessary.
6- get a can of Acetone and a wash bottle to clean the airbrush with, and don’t bother using anything else. Clean it after each paint “session”, removing the needle to clean it. Use the acetone to clean between colors.
7- buy a large spray booth with 2 fans. The last thing you want is no space and pushing the model into the filter
Agree with much of what @dinglebery said in their response, with a couple additions
Use the paint you are able to get/what you like to use, even if it requires thinning.
Airbrushes are like any tool, it is worth it to spend a little bit more and get a quality one than get a cheap one that you have to constantly replace.
For your first airbrush get one that is a generalist, one that can handle the middle 80% of jobs. IE gives you a wide enough spray to use for priming in a decent amount of time and can get small enough to do some detail work within reason. Down the road you can always look into getting additional specific purpose airbrushes.
You might also look into getting a separate air valve for assistance with doing detail work.
You hardware store thinner for cleaning between sessions. Acetone works for some paints, but for others you may need to use either Mineral Spirits or Lacquer thinner.
Plastic spoons are great for testing colors and finishes on
I disagree with your #5,I have been thinning non airbrush ready paints since I started 25 yrs ago,it’s the way of the hobby,and not doing so limits your selections.Tamiya and AK-Real are so easy to mix that they are almost fool proof. #4 any cheap model works,buy one of the type that you will be building #6 hardware store lacquer thinner works great. #7 depending on where you work and how much,a large spray booth may not be necessary,just a good respirator,unless you plan on releasing large clouds of overspray which shouldnt happen if your using the right air and paint mixture.
Thanks for all the reply’s. Ranger, you suggest spending a little more to get a quality tool. I learned that lesson the hard way, but what is a ‘little’ more 100, 150, 200? What is an example of a ‘generalist’ airbrush? I do 1900 to present naval and air models. I’m restricted as to what paints I have available, no shop within 40 miles. I settled on Tamiya for airbrushing and still looking for a good brush paint.
No one answered about the forked point of the needles. Is that a defect or a feature?
A forked needle is bad. Needles should not be forked, they should have a point on them. Points are fragile, protect them. Everyone has a favorite airbrush, I recommend a Badger Patriot 105 airbrush with a .3 or .5 tip.You can get one from Amazon for around $90. The way to improve your skill is to practice practice practice.
With Ghaaleri’s new line of airbrushes, and seeing how well they operate, In my opinion there’s no reason to spend more than $100 for an airbrush. I purchased both of my GHAC-98D on sale for $59.
I have an Awata HP-CH which I have used for years. Recently, I purchased a Spectrum “Black Widow” (Harbor Freight -$80). It has all the attributes of the Awata and is 50% less expensive.
I would highly recommend it.
For a generalist I personally recommend the Iwata Revolution:
Obviously something similar from GSI is what I would recommend, as I personally use a GSI for detail work. I have also heard good things about Harder and Steinbeck brushes, but have not personally used one.
By little more I mean, as other have stated, not go for the cheap ones off places like Amazon or Ali Express, and get one from a reputable brand. Yes it will cost you a little more but you will get something that will last you for many years regardless of what kind of paints you throw at it.
This is the one I was referring to from the Harbor Freight store. It comes with the two size cups. a .02mm and a .03mm needles with nozzles. It compares favorably to my Awata HP-CH for half the price.
My $0.02 to convo, I picked up a no-name gravity feed dual action airbrush from NEOCO that works well. While not one of the big names it works well for what I need it to do, considering it was learning how to use an airbrush.
The Revolution series was Iwata’s introductory line of airbrushes before they came out with the NEOs. It has a .5 mm needle/nozzle and can spray from a pencil-thin line up to 1.5 inches. You can also convert it to a .3 mm (needs 3 parts).
There is still a little bit of a learning curve, but it does help improve the smoothness of paint finish. One thing you should also go grab to practice and test are are plastic spoons. They are cheap and will really let you see how your paint is going down.
