Natural Metal Finishes?

How in the world does one make a realistic natural metal finish? I have heard of using real foil, some type of “metallizer”, “buffable” paints, Alclad, and many more. Which technique or combination of techniques is foolproof and works well? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

All the above janus.

If you have an airbrush, I’d reccomend Testors Metalizers. They do a good job and it is easy to apply.

I’ve never tried foil (Bare-Metal brand or typical household Aluminum with an adhesive) but I’ve heard good things. I think I’m going to try it soon. A lot of people swear by this stuff and it beats masking for airbrushing sometimes.

Search these forums. There area quite a few threads on the subject.

Toad

I haven’t tried them yet, but I’m told Alclad paints give the best finish.

SNJ metal spray with its buffing powder is also highly recommended.

I just recently tried Bare Metal Foil for the first time, and am very pleased with its result: http://members.fortunecity.com/jpayne/models/ICKY010.jpg

janus,

The methods I’m aware of are:

  1. Bare Metal Foil (or a competitive, similar product)
  2. SNJ Spray dMetal (sprayed with airbrush). They also sell a ‘powder’ that is polished into the paint after it has dried.
  3. Testors Metallizers - airbrush again
  4. Alclad - airbrush again.
  5. Various other home grown methods.

They all have their advantages/disadvantages, but generally if you’re doing an entire plane or a large area, the spray metallizers are best. You can cover an entre plane with foil, but it takes alot of patience.

Whichever way you go, generally the metallizers aren’t cheap. I think that the Alclad is about the most expensive and likely runs from $8-10 per jar. I have some at home, but haven’t used it yet. I also hear that you will ‘use more than you think you will’ so a jar doesn’t go as far as the same volume of ‘paint’ would.

I’ve used SNJ and it is very good. It is much more durable than the Testors Metallizers. The Alclad is reportedly even better, but like I said, I haven’t used it yet.

One key thing I’ve learned is that it is very important to have a very smooth/flawless surface to put these metalizers onto. They will show EVERY flaw in your bodywork and any spec on the surface will be revealed. Get your ‘base’ in good shape and you’ll be happy with the results.

Good luck,

M.

Wow! That’s a beautiful P-47 you have! I’ve seen a photo of P-38 with similar metal foil finish on the internet. I forgot the URL. I guess if you want to make it look just like metal, the best way is to use metal.

Can you maybe share some secrets with us on this P-47? [;)]

Alright guys I need help here too. How can you tell when your surface is ready?
I have some seams that are smooth, but you can still see the scratches, how do I know when the surface is ready? I just can’t tell. I have read and read about how to do this and it still scares me to death!!!

jimz,
The biggest thing I worried about was the ‘marks’ left in the plastic from the sandpaper I was using. I’ve found that any marks left from any type of paper less than about 600 grit was noticeable in the final finish. I generally tried to buff the surface up with at least 600 wet sanded but a final touch-up with 1200 wet sanded would have been better. If you have other marks that are more significant than the marks left from 600 grit paper, my experience is that it will show up.
You might try putting on a coat of primer before the metalizer. This usually makes it much easier to see imperfections in the finish. Buff the primer up before the metallizer and you should be OK?
I’ve also heard somewhere that you can apply Future as a primer for metalizers. Don’t take my word on this one, cuz I’ve never done it and I’m not sure you could apply those types of hot lacquers overtop of an acrylic clear?

I hate to say it, but my suggestion would be to get a scrap piece and replicate some of the scratches your concerned about. Apply some metalizer and see for yourself what the result will be. It’s the only real way to get a good idea what’s going to happen…

M.

Thanks M, I will give it a try. I have several older Monogram kits I have on my shelf, the B-29 and the F100D, I think I will start with my F86D, F-84G and my F-100D.

I have had some reasonable finishes with Floquil platinum mist and old silver, depending on how shiney you want the surface. They take a little more handling than Testors.

jimz,
Another thing…
If you are using SNJ metalizers, I think you can add drops of different colored paint to the mix to get various ‘shades’. I remember reading that in the instructions somewhere. They suggested using a drop of ‘burnt umber’ or ‘blue’ to give different shades for applying to different panels.

Not sure if it works with the Testors though?

M.

Not much to tell, really. Peel it off the backing sheet and rub it down onto the model in sheets as big as possible. I rubbed it down with a Q-Tip, but I hear people like to use a small block of soft balsa wood too. Mask off individual panels with low-tack Scotch tape, and polish with very fine steel wool to get the varying panel highlights. That be it! :slight_smile:

Use gloss black laquer or enamel for the Alclad metalizers. Make sure you polsih out all the scratches-it’s very unforgiving stuff in that regard. I use 1200 wet-to-dry, then Brasso on a soft cloth (yep, good old GI Brasso) to get the last of the scratches out. Works pretty well. Then wash the residue off, prime with the black gloss, and apply your Alclad colors. The end results are quite pleasing. -Ed

Is SNJ still available?

Before applying any airbrushed metallic finish, I give most of the kit a buff with a cloth wheel in a Dremel, and some plastic polish. Makes a big difference.

You did a great job! I’m just wondering, do you paint over the foil?

Bare Metal Foil costs around $10/sq ft. A roll of “Super Aluminum Foil” from Dollar Tree, a bottle of Micro Metal Foil Adhesive, plus a soft brush comes to under $1/sq ft.

There’s one problem with aluminum foil I haven’t been able to beat: simulating other “white” metals, e.g., titanium – maybe someone out in forum-land has an idea?

Tom
For different shading of aluminum foil try using different brands. The cheaper ones generally work better because they are thinner. Also try using both sides of the foil. Each side has a different sheen to it.

Re: For different shading of aluminum foil try using different brands/sides.
Thanks but been there. I drove my wife crazy looking for different brands. No joy. I suspect that the manufacturers try to get the most reflective sheen (on one side) they can to impress the buyer – the result is highly uniform. And while there’s more variation on the dull sides, it’s not much. (Helpful hint to others reading this: if you want to keep that variation, avoid polishing – I had to re-do one of the trim tabs on my NMF P-38J after over-buffing the different foils I’d carefully selected.)

I’ve got a piece of machined titanium (which I would describe as medium gray) in front of me as I type this. It’s not even close to the color of any aluminum foil I’ve found. I’ve also tried chemically oxidizing. No joy there either as any oxide comes right off when I burnish the foil onto the part. RATS!

I have heard some people boil their aluminum foil with egg shells to get different sheens and colors. I remember an old issue of FSM where this was used on a F-100 to great effect.

Re: boil their aluminum foil with egg shells
[:D] “Right now I’m having amnesia and deja vu at the same time. I think I’ve forgotten this before.” - Steven Wright

Thanks for reminding me! I recall how discolored my mother’s Club Aluminum (cast aluminium cookware popular in the '50’s for any readers who don’t recognize the name) 5 quart pot got when she boiled eggs. I’ll have to give it a try.

A quick websearch found “Having a problem with boiling eggs darkening your aluminum pans? Boil 1c. tomato juice to 1qt. water in pan filling full enough to cover discolored area. Pan darkening can be prevented by boiling in a non- aluminum pan.”