My Italeri 1/35 S-100 Schnellboot Build

Modeling Subjects Ships
1

OK chaps,

This is my first build that I’m going to document on here. I will admit to being in the hobby for fun so don’t expect much, although I’ll try my best. I’ve been building for years, but as I just said… for fun - that’s what a hobby is for isn’t it? I’ve seen pics around the forum(s) of models that I find just fantastic. The weathering techniques and build quality that some… or most of you folks put in is just out of this world and I have much respect for you all, but I’m not that talented, so do it for fun (although if you go out onto the Tournament Jousting field you’ll most likley come up against me at some point - and I’m very very very good at that!!![:D]

Now! On with the Build.

After sneaking the huge box upstairs to my modeling sanctuary and having a rushed tea I sat down, put the movie “The Wild Geese” on my PC and got started.

Section 1 joining the hull together.

Is it easy? Yes and no. Yes because the parts go together well and no because the hull is that damn big. for those who get this wonderful beast you will need a LARGE table. Parts of the hull are fragile especially around the torpedo exit rims. I think, but I’m not sure if I did it myself, but one of the rims has snapped off the port (left) side. Also the sides where the main supersctructure will sit on both parts of the hull are warped slightly. I’m not sure if this will affect the build or will straighten out during construction or not, time will tell.

Italeri say that you can simply screw the hull together. In a way this is correct, but I also added glue, especially around the bow as there is a noticable gap there after the screws are in place and tight. Also make sure that the stern has a bit of glue to it and is lined up correctly as on my model this tended to not line up on its own and needed just a little guidence with glue. this will make sure IMHO that when I come to (try[%-)]) and fit the rudder section and stern panel that it will hopefully line up just right and there might be no noticable join (hopefully!!).

You also get to cover the screws with panels. They are a good fit but I really took my time to make sure I got the right numbered part in the right place and the right way round. Why? the top hull screw covers are wedge shaped to keep the hull lines flowing. I found that a dry fit caused a few problems as the fit is really snug on parts 33D(2) 10E,9E,8E (starboard) and 7E,6E,5E (port). The little round plugs that cover the screws on the keel on my model were slightly (ever so) small. you might need a little filler. I used a bit of extra glue [%-)]. Once again be careful as the number sequence and fit down the hull from bow to stern is different. Starting from the bow to the stern it goes 19E, 18E, 22E, 21E, 20E. Why this is, I’ve no idea. Must be a reason though!

Putting the centre braces together along with the nuts to screw into when you put the hull together I encountered no problems (did I mention that I did this first?). I also glued these in place and they fit resonably snugly without glue apart from the middle two. the bow and stern ones didn’t really need glue… but they got some all the same. once all this was together it’s remarkably rigid at this stage.

Now then… can it be R/C’d. I don’t know, but probably not due to the stern panel and rudder panel’s being seperate. Also where the centre prop would fit it is I think too tight to take a shaft and seal. But for those out there with lots more experience than me in these matters I stand to be corrected and will probably be shot down in flames [#oops].

Before you ask… I’ll post pictures tomorrow when I get some decent light as camera flash tends to wipe out details when working up close so when it’s daylight and my brain is functioning on a Sunday morning (usually around 9am) I’ll get busy and post them ( normally use my Fuji S5pro with macro lens… or my standard 18-135 zoom lens and stand a little way back [8D])

Would you believe it… it took the entire movie to put section 1 together!

Apart from Photos to be added, here endeth the first section.

James

2

Probably one of the fastest WIP posted…kit just came out…lol

I’ll be watching closely as mine was shipped out Friday.

I did notice there were some items molded on that did not have a very 3 dimensional look, see pic below.

I could see a few of these type of items being sanded off and replaced with rod and fiddly bits as they were pretty elementary shapes (don’t know what they were supposed to be on the prototype).

And this little bugger of a plug will be hard to deal with, luckily there are some nice 35th scale rivits available on the aftermarlet so you can replace the lost detail…

3

Nice going James, yes please, photo’s and lots of 'em. Sounds like lots of putty and sanding to get the hull all crispy nice (and at a meter long thats a lot of sanding [swg] )

cheers,

Julian

4

Here we go. Piccies of section 1. putting the hull together. All pics resized to 1024x whatever!

You can see here that the sides round the forward superstructure are warped inwards, the starboard more than the port. notice as well the broken part over the top of the port torpedo frame.

This shows the bracing that has metal nuts inside as part of the screw together hull.

Speaks for itself. I’m pretty sure that this was in the box like this, added to the warped sides I think that this hull side was cast on a friday!

This shows the bow view of the starboard hull part. notice how the armoured superstructure side is warped inwards. the tiny knub on top of the (whole) torpedo frame will have to be removed to allow the deck to sit properly at a later stage.

you can see in the centre of the picture the cover that hides the screw. It’s a pretty tight fit. notice as well the broken top section of the torpedo tuber frame on the right.

Full view of the complete section. You can see the size of the thing now as it almost (but not quite) fills the table.

I hope these help guys… more to come! Mwaaaaa Haaaaa haaaaaaa haaaaaaaaaa (Dr Evil laugh) [#toast] [(-D]

James

5

That missing piece definately looks like a short shot to me…hope it wasn’t a universal thing or Italeri will be taking plenty of flak…

6

That really is a huge piece of real estate. The damage to to the tube aperture looks like a molding fault to me. Why not try contacting Italeri on this before you go any further? Seems reasonable to me that they supply you with a new hull piece considering the sales price of the beast. The plastic screw cover plates are going to need some rather careful putty work so as not to mutilate the rivets around them.

Julian

7

I’ve started masking the hull for painting. now… my question is, and it is not too clear in section 3 of the instructions if the measurements are to the top or bottom of the black waterline. what to others who have this beast think?

I usually use Vallejo Model colour for painting (no smell… it’s acrylic) but the paint numbers are for Italeri’s own range of paints - this is something new to me! After much discussion in the model shop Which seemed to include most customers as well, I finally decided on the following colours for the hull:

Black (950) for the waterline (that was easy… black is black [:-^]

Hull Red (985) for below the waterline

Silver Grey (883) for the hull sides and anywhere else. (should be something called Schnellboot white, but nobody could agree on the shade, so I chose the palest I could get as I reckon that it should be a shade of grey!

now the official book of words and pictures that comes with the kit quotes the following paints:

A Schnellbootweiss ITA MM 2720 ITA MM Scryl 4696 (Hull above Waterline)

B Dark Red ITA MM 1506 ITA MM Acryl 4714 (Hull Below waterline)

C Flat Black - Ha! Got that one!!!

D Gold ITA MM 1744 ITA MM Acryl 4671 (for propellers? I think I’ll use a copper colour, but subject to change)

E Gun Metal ITA MM 1405 ITA MM Acryl 4681 (self explanitory there… but the torpedoes?? I think I’ll stick with steel colour with a gunmetal blue head - Vallejo 800)

F Dark Tan ITA MM 1742 ITA MM Acryl 4709 (Parts of Deck)

G Grey ITA MM 1723 ITA MM Acryl 4752

H Medium Grey ITA MM 1721 ITA MM Acryl 4746

I Sand ITA MM 1706 ITA MM Acryl 44720 (parts of deck)

J Green ITA MM 1524 ITAMM Acryl 4669

K Red ITA MM 1503 ITA MM Acryl 4714

Anyone got a shade card??? [%-)]

I’ll post descriptions & pictures of sections 2 - 5 after I’ve had a lie down with a damp towel on my forehead!

James

8

http://ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_humbrol.htm

Try this instead of damp towel.

[oX)]

9

Didn’t help much… but this has…

http://www.shipcamouflage.com/images/kriegsmarine1.jpg

and so has this

The official shade adopted for the Schnellboot was “Schnellbootweiss” a neutral pearl grey. This color matches the modern FS paint chip # 17875 and the German RAL paint chip #9002 “Grauweiss”.

I’ll do some checking, but i reckon that the vallejo silver grey I got will be about right

EDIT:

INFORMATION Vallejo colour 993 is a Match for Schnellbootweiss as it is a match for RAL 9002. Trust me to pick the one next to it instead!

[:D]

James

10

Hello …

I must say, that kit is a lot better than the Revell two offerings … from what I can see from the photos here … either that - or you are an ubermodeler sir.

Would you mind contacting me offsite at PTConsultingNHR@aol.com - please?

Thank you,

Garth

11

Email sent, Garth.

[:)]

James

12

I thought that the Revell S-100 was an excellent kit as also noted in the on-line reviews…

Another option for the lost (due to sanding etc) rivets is Archer’s 1/35th scale dry transfer rivets, I think that these may be a better choice than the glue on type, mainly due to the fact that they come on a sheet that would make it pretty easy to align and look consistant.

13

another build update for you all

first the piccies!!!

Here we have the stern and rudder section. no real problems encountered BUT make the stand first as it is very possible to break off the rudders. I would also recommend masking off the hull for painting (section 3 in the book of pictures) BEFORE adding the rudder section. and then paint the hull once the section has dried and you’ve done any cleanup needed. I didn’t and found painting the rudder/prop section hard once it’s all on place.

Can this model be R/C’d? I think that it MAY be possible, but it would take some modifications for the prop shafts. I leave this to someone with much more experience than me… and I’d like to know how they did it.

coming up… torpedo tubes.

14

Torpedo Tubes.

Now then. This could be a potential sticking point for those who are not careful. It becomes apparent that the tubes are not reversable. there are definatly left and right tubes. Careful dry fitting is needed and I would advise putting the photo etch ring around the tubes exit before fitting into the hull. It does make this step easier to do rather than fiddling around after the tube is fitted to the hull.

A word about the etched brass. It is very thinn and easily bendable. Parts were becoming detached in the bag, especially parts like the depth charge racks and the footplates for the armoured bridge.

It doesn’t look like it, but there is a left and right!

Here you can see the photo etch ring (sort of). Once again there’s a left and right, I can’t remember is the parts on the sprues match the instructions as I though they were the wrong way round (it’s probably me), but check twice and glue once!

This shows the starboard tube dry fitted into the hull. it’s quite a snug fit. So far the part fitting as been very good.

This shows the port tube fitted into place. You can see the broken part.

Torpedo tube door. It is possible to make this moveable. take care about placement of the hinge as there is a part on the top yet to be placed. Once I’ve painted the hull and the area I can put that part on.

Torpedo tube door. This picture shows the inside detail. The instructions call for the inside part to be painted gunmetal, but i think that a dark sea gray would be more appropriate. The inside of the torpedo tubes I have painted in steel.

Torpedo door in place… and it moves/!!!

I’m enjoying this build. I think that it’s a great kit packed full of detail (more than you realise untill you get going. There’s scope for all you expert builders to potentially improve and superdetail this kit. As an overview now that I’m building, Italeri have done (for me) a superb job in this kit. I’m sure that another will find its way onto my bench soon and my learning experience in this build will make for a better one next time.

Once again, Italeri have done a superb job on this kit - it does have some drawbacks - but as there are no surviving S-Boats available to crawl round, photograph and measure and only photos and possible draught plans available then builders can’t really complain about this offering (some will, but I won’t)

Congratulations Italeri. Another superb offering… What’s next???

15

Hey! Looks Great!

Didn’t even know a 35th. scale was available. I’m doing a 72nd. scale Revell right now (really enjoying it) and planning the 35th. scale Italeri Elco in January (is winter time up here).

You may have seen this, but type in “Schellboot index page” for a very cool website. Magnificent photos, especially of the sunken “S - Boat.”

“What next from Italeri?”

Higgins 78 footer in both 72nd. and 35th. scales?

Ooooh Please, please, please.

B.P.

Calgary, Alberta Canada

16

it just was released like 2 weeks ago…

WELCOME to the FSM forums!

17

Well I had the same problem with the port hull piece with the broken piece at the top of the torpedo opening.

Looks like Italeri did not package / protect these pieces from shifting around in the box. They better get their act together or they are going to have a lot of ticked of customers that just spent $200 (or more) on a kit that comes out the box BROKEN!

Wrote to MRC who is supposed to be the US inporter according to the Italeri website, also fired off an email to the webstore I purchased it from, because I don’t feel like waiting for a part coming on the slow boat from Italy. I have had this type of service from other European companies that have US importers and the wait is 3-9 months.

It’s more principal than anything, they chose to package it that way (shoddy) they need to make it good.

18

seems you’ve got the same problem that I have Joe [censored] [censored] [banghead] [%-)]

Are the armoured sides on your hulls (where the armoured supersturcture fits) warped inwards?

I’m off to my hobby shop today (LOTS of oodle to spend over the next few days - I need to replenish my stash. I’ll ask to look in any surviving S- Boat boxes to check the left hull.

ooh! nearly forgot… is the broken bit in the box anywhere?

James

19

James, yes, there were 2 pieces floating around in the box. Haven’t fiddled with them yet to see how or if they’ll line up. Italeri needs to take a few lessons from Trumpeter. They wrap pointy ends, fiddley bits and delicate protrusions on a lot of their aircraft kits in foam padding to protect them.

Another issue I have is that apparently the sprue tree that the hull was attached to was basically RIPPED off, leaving gouged craters in the hull parts that will now need filler(came this way from Italeri, they took the hull parts off the tree). Why couldn’t they have left it attached to the tree, or at least cut them off an inch or so from the hull and let us saw or cut off the hull part cleanly? My take is that they were in a hurry to get this kit out.

I don’t know if I would go so far as saying the hull sides on my kit are warped, just leaning inward slightly is all that I can tell.

Didn’t mean to hijack your build thread James, but figured that all interested in the kit would be checking in here anyway.

20

Don’t worry about hi-jacking the thread, Joe. All this discussion does relate to the build as it is information that I reckon other prospecting builders need to know.

I managed to check out 2 schnellboot kits at the hobby shop and I found that both hulls were complete but the section over the torpedo space was damaged. Those of us who were peering into the kit were in agreement that it was Italeri’s poor packaging that is to blame.

So… It is a really good kit, let down by poor packaging ( Italeri folks… check out trumpeter’s packaging of their M16 Half Track and Up and coming Tiger II THAT’s how to package a kit, not just throw it into a large box, slap a lid on and send it!) Also there’s the empty depth charge racks…

For Schnellboot owners… if you have the same damage as Joe’s photo above, and mine in an earlier post, stick a message in here and I’ll have a bash at Italeri over the phone… or you all can [soapbox]

Apart from the obvious damage and omissions, I’m really enjoying this build and I’ve got the modelshop saving me another and getting hold of some schnellbootweiss paint. I have some more pics (got some paint on the sucker!) which I’ll post soon.