I have just got some Mr Surfacer to use for the first time.
I have read some bits on its use etc but i am not 100 percent.
I think i read that you can wipe away any excess with alcahol.Not sure what kind that is.I am in the UK and i can get methalated spirit (blue stuff)is this alchol?
Could i use nail varvarnish remover,acetone?
And how do you clean the brush you use.Any tips on the use would be great.
For Mr Surfacer, you will need to clean your brushes with lacquer thinner, either hardware store variety (cheaper) or Gunze’s own (expensive). Acetone may work, but I haven’t tried it.
Australian methylated spirits may or may not be the same as that in the UK, but I have found that the local variety (91-95% ethanol) won’t dissolve Mr Surfacer.
Actually I may have said in the past that it could be cleaned up with alcohol. This came about because I have used a similar product, Tamiya’s Liquid Surface Primer (which is similar to Mr Surfacer in many respects) quite extensively and this product responds to alcohol (methylated spirits) for dilution and cleanup. I have since found Mr Surfacer to be only partially soluble in methylated spirits.
EDIT: I haven’t tried it personally but it’s been said that Gunze’s proprietary lacquer thinner (Mr Thinner) is not aggressive to styrene. This means that it can be used to clean up excess and to smooth seams on the model without it melting the surface,
I use 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean surfacer 500 out of my brushes. I also use it on cotton swabs to clean it off the seams so don’t have to sand as much.
-Fred
Hmm… I’ll have to dig out my bottle of Mr Surfacer and check again… [D)]
Also, don’t apply it in thick coats and confine it to where you need it. I use it along seams as both a filler and indicator as to where I need to address issues. I dab it on with a paint brush, then sand away with a polishing stick. Cleanup of the brush…lacquer thinner.
Ok, I have just checked my bottle of Mr Surfacer 1000 and it’s completely insoluble in alcohol. Attempting to mix it with alcohol (ethanol), it just forms sticky clumps.
Another use I have found for this (and its Tamiya counterpart) is filling of recessed ejector pin marks. Apply a drop to the centre of the pin mark with a pointed toothpick and run the tip of the toothpick around the rim of the pin mark. Apply more until it stands slightly proud of the surrounding surface and allow to dry fully. Using a chisel-edge knife blade (reversed so that the bevel of the cutting edge is parallel to the surface), shave off the top of the “dome” of dried filler flush with the surrounding surface. If the surface is curved or rounded rather than flat, sand rather than shave.
When using as a filler as described above by Gerald, remember that it’s quite thin compared with other fillers, and will shrink considerably when dry. So apply, allow to dry fully, smooth/sand/blend with the surrounding area and if required, repeat.
VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure that you stir the bottle very thoroughly before using. It settles in the jar very quickly.
I’m currently using Mr. Surfacer 500 to fill the many, many, ejector-pin marks on the Airfix Dr. Who Tardis. Use cheap brushes and laquer thinner. And multiple thin coats are better than one thick one.
Cheers,
Chris.
Hi Chris,
can you give a brand name or range for the lacquer thinner in the UK?
I’ve looked for it in the DIY stores but either I’m looking for it in the wrong places, or I need to stop off at better stores.
Cheers,
Kevin
Hi Kevin,
the brand I use is called Tetrosyl Paint Thinners. I get mine from a local car parts and paints store, and it cost me £4.99 for 500ml. Here’s their website:
http://www.tetrosyl.com/index.cfm?page=1
Maybe you could contact them and see if there’s a local stockist?
you need to remember that, here in the UK, the stuff’s called cellulose, not laquer thinners. I’m fairly certain that Halfords would have it. You may need to ask, because I think, because of some silly EU regulation, they’re not allowed to call it cellulose thinner any more.
Alternatively, try contacting a local garage which specialises in repainting or refinishing cars. Most automotive paint is cellulose-based, and they use cellulose thinner in industrial quantities They might well let you have half a litre or so, which would keep you going for many years. Bear in mind that you’ll need a resealable glass or metal, not plastic, container.
Cheers,
Chris.
Thanks Chris,
a case of “A rose by any other name” … can be pretty tricky to track down.
Kevin