I will look into that as there are more Phantoms to be built - yes, I love Phantoms.
2nd this… Just returned from LHS and they 2 large displays of revell - enamal and Aqua something or another - their acrylic line… Interesting square containers for the acrylics… Ive never used these, but right now i have about 3 or 4 different brands and not sure i can handle another for now. I wonder how they work?
I tried a sample of the Mig Ammo paints and it did not turn out well! After 3 days, the paint is still soft and uncured and rubbed off easily with my finger! I used a few drops of their thinner when I sprayed and found it went on splotchy and uneven, as if the paint and thinner were not compatable. What did I do wrong?
Revell enamels are great. I brought some back from overseas many years ago and LOVE them. And like any other enamel, they work just fine with standard hardware store thinner, or brand thinners such as Testors Airbrush.
And Testors enamels are still here- only the military paints of FS colors are gone. If you want to try mixing your own (and there are tricks to that) you can still use Testors enamels. On the good side, they have added some new bare metal colors.
Yes, the little square bottles are still around. Their OD is matched to 34087, Flat Tan is 30277, Flat Gray is 36270, and their red and yellow match Insignia Red and Insignia Yellow respectively. Basicly they have turned back the clock 40 years to before they released the Model Master line. But why mix paints for all the other subtly different colors? All it takes is one slight difference while mixing and two batches will not be the same. Not a big deal on two separate kits, but on a single project, that can be an issue. Humbrol and Revell provide the appropriate military colors in their lines. My builds are 99.7% military, so I need military colors, preferably pre mixed.
I have NOT moved on;
Yes, I have added Tamiya and A.K. Interactive along with some Vallejo, But I will still use TESTORS as my main Go To paint. I was mixing to Military Spec. for years before they brought out Model Master.
During that time I had also gone to Humbrol tins for most of my Sailing ship and Motoryacht models. The thing I find confusing is the constant comments about thinner to use with the different brands. You know, Plain old Mineral spirits worked great with my Humbrol and Tesstors-Still does!
To solve that problem with the different ones is, I bought the recommended thinners, retarders and stuff like that, for each brand. I still keep going back to my mixer with cleaned out M.M. bottles and make my own according to the Fed.Specs for each color with the adjustment for scale in the tint.
YES, Boys and Girls.The paint out of the Bottle, Tube or other container are ideal specifications, NOT what should be used on the actual model. YOU must, Like the museums do-Adjust for scale and lighting!
Not really. There is no “must” do for painting in the hobby. Some brands do adjust for scale, and some of us like our paints as they look from the bottle or tin. Besides, with most any weathering technique in use, the end color will not be the same as when it’s first applied to the model. Not to mention that not every paint manufacturer’s paint is an exact match to the government paint standard color chip in the first place. There are way too many variables in play to say that modelers must do certain things in every case of painting.
[dto:] Environmental conditions, time in service, maintenance activities, etc. all have an effect on the paint on real-world subjects. No two will ever be alike.
Sometimes the chips themselves aren’t even faithful anymore due to age. A formula might be but that depends on the base colors and tint accuracy. To me close enough really is clse enough. If my minds eye is happy so be it. When you’re aim is to please someone elses minds eye then all bets are off anyway.
Oldermodelguy;
Now you know why I don’t enter in shows anymore. I painted a Liberian Tanker " Soot Black" and they said it was wrong. That was a match to the photos of the ship that I took in Good Light( daytime). I repainted it Semi-Gloss Black and Won the class in the next show,and an extra ribbon for Best Paint, So you see, you are right!
I haven’t found that to be true. I’ve sprayed 3 brands of the same FS color and found them to be wildly different. Having ventured down the frustrating path of authenticity, I’ve decided to take a look at historical photos, find one I like and try to get close. Even real airplanes in AF museums don’t look like line aircraft.
I think these things are not really a must. Scale effect is only appropirate for scale viewing distances of hundreds of feet. With cars and planes this is is very seldom appropriate. Multiply about two feet by the divisor of the scale to get the scale viewing distances. I do consider it for ships 350th or smaller, and 144th aircraft, but not otherwise.
Hi Don!
Yes, you are right. Now cars and most planes are not really affected to much by this. But take a photo of a Muddy, Dirty Tank and try to duplicate it. If you use the colors you think the mud is, invariably you get it to dark. Mud is a funny beast. It can vary in color too. Especially, If sand and clay are involved!
The day the vehicle rolls out into the sun, the color and saturation starts changing. The way it changes depends on the location. I vehicle dwelling in the tropics will weather different than one in Alaska.
I weather most of my models, so I allow considerable leeway in the basic colors, since they wont stay that way anyway.
A good friend of mine is collecting sand from USMC battlefields and must have several dozen jars.
they range from white to black.
LOL guys . I remember a show in Tennessee I enter a King Tiger and it did not even make a 3rd place. Later I found out the judges didn’t like weathering but factory fresh finishes. I noticed it right away when none of the weathered tanks scored.
About a year later I entered the same model in a different show and won Gold 1st place in Axis 1/35 AFV category. Still it’s fun competing even if one doesn’t win.
This brings up a problem I see at judging at local and regional contests. Judges get together to judge, and there is always a know-it-all loudmouth in the group that has a strong influence on other judges. Instead of a group of judges, the results end up being the result of one judge. I have advocated in local contests for a rule requiring each judge to work by himself without other judges around, or if people must judge in groups a rule that judges must keep their thoughts to themselves.