I was just coasting thru a few posts, new and old. I notice the bad mouthing of the regular old Monogram decals. Now if you get them in register(a sometimes problem) they will work great, with of course a gloss cote and no setting/softening agent. Here the kicker, and I can’t believe it hasn’t been posted before(so if it has, forgive me). They have to be soaked in REALLY warm water. Ea: just below boiling. You know when those air bubbles are just begining to form on the bottom of the pan and the steam is just begining to rise. I use a single burner hot plate set at medium low. Soak’em for a 25 count, check release, resoak for ten count if needed or until it slides on the backing. Lay’em down, smooth’em out, wipe up the excess adhesive, and throw down another cote of gloss. I “geerronteeee” they will snug down nice 'n tight to every nook, cranny or curve and will look great. By the way comon sense will tell you to use tweesers. Don’t stick your fingers in the hot water. Moms, wives and dogs hate when you scream that loud.
I disagree, you do not need REALLY warm or hot water for decals, luke warm water from the faucet works just as good and it wont burn you. Your technique is a recipe for an accident AND a trip to the ER waiting to happen. I do hope you have a burn center on call when it happens. Hot water even below boiling point can still cause very painful burns!
Sorry for being so blunt but this is a reckless technique and no regard for safety to anyone that uses it.
Air Master
I will disagree with both of you. With many many years of Monogram decal experience, I found that VERY warm water PLUS the proper setting solution IS the proper technique for setting Monograms old decals.
I use a “candle warmer” (used to be called a coffee cup warmer) and a thick crockery bowl to keep my decal water warm. Not hot, but very warm! Anything below this temperature and the old (1980s era glossy) Monogram decals are prone to silvering. In fact, I have had some that simply refused to settle whatsoever and simply sat right on top of surface details.
So, given this, and years of trial and error, I’ll stick with my heated water method. In fact, using this I dont normally need any MicroSol except for the very deepest recesses or very pronounced raised details. In addition, I found that this was the ONLY way I could get Tamiya’s decals to stick. Several years ago I had a 1/48 F-51 and 1/48 F4U2 where the Tamiya decals, despite every setting solution in my arsenal, simply would not settle at ALL. If I had something other than sink water now I know it would have settled. The warm water makes the carrier film pliable enough to settle on its own. Stay away from the boiling water, and dont be tempted to micronuke water.
If you can stick your finger in it and it settles your decal, then your doing good and your not going to the burn center.
David
Easy Guys, I said “just below boiling” “little air bubbles” Thats about 150-170degrees and if you ever sat in a Japanese ofuro or a good hot tub niether are going to burn your tuckus just slow cook you. (Think joke here, or common sense here, I already know there a difference in the temps) I think that qualifies as really/very warm. PatlaborUnit1 I think you did agree with me you just added setting solution, I say you don’t really need it. I also agree that this works with Tamiya decals. Besides I said use tweesers. I don’t no about you but when I use tweersers it’s so I won’t be sticking my fingers in the hot stuff, NO Wait, I mean really warm stuff.
As far as a trip to a burn unit…??? Don’t you guys stretch sprue? Hot form canopies? How 'bout wax casting? Or mold white metal parts? Or gasp! scratchbiuld? Or has our hobby devolved into purely AM stuff and OOB work?
I was just sharing “MY” way of using Monogram decals. Ease up and take a sip of the coffee on your really/very warm/hot plate.
Pat,
I agree with you disagreeing with me[:D]. My point was his method is dangerous with a hot plate nearby. I have never had any problem with monogram decals OOB they have always gone on fine for me no matter what temperture the was and never silvered. I use warm water too but not really warm water the way the original posters technique explains. I use straight from the faucet and it works fine for me. I may have to change water or refill but it will sure beat getting burned.
Air Master
Airmaster
glad we agree to disagree but findcommon ground. This would be a really boring hobby if we all did it the same way.
Possibly it comes down to how hot the water is coming out of the faucet. Living in apartments, the regulated water temp coming from the faucet is by design “low” to prevent injury to renters , and this was often my case, while now I own my own home and can set it as my gas bill allows (still not into the red hot shower thing, tho).
I have also experimented with using filtered water, with no real diference in how the decals reacted when wet. Now if I can just figure out how to salvage the old Roco decals that are stuck to a sheet that I really need!
David
What does the warm/hot water do to the decal that cold/cool water will not? Does warm water make the decal more pliable?
Chris
Yes Chris the warmer water makes the Mongram and Tamiya decal very pliable. They have thick carreir films and this piablity helps form the decals over the curves and prevents silvering. I have even used this on the old Monogram 1/48 Panther and the decal sucked down tight over the zimmerit finnish.
My solution to Monogram decals have been to toss them out and purchase an aftermarket set. I have yet found a Monogram decal I liked to used OOB.
Scott