Model Master Metalizer enamels: A personal review

Modeling Subjects Aircraft
1

Dear Forum,

How to depict that metalic fresh stainless steel look on a plastic model? That was the
question I asked myself when I was confronted with building a revell-monogram p-38
lightning. With that I decided to look into model master’s line of metalizer paints.
There are a decent amount of colors including stainless steel, aluminum, gun metal, burnt
iron and a couple of others. Most of which come in buffing or non-buffing mixes.
So after a bottle of plastic polish, the paints, a bottle of metalizer airbrush thinner ( if you use another
the paint will fight it and resist washing off your brush or container), and
clear coat protecto/sealerr, I was off to paint.

The verdict…
After some trial and error on several model kits using an airbrush, I found the metalizer to produce mixed
results most of which lead me to the conclusion that this type of paint is difficult to work
with.

Overall, painted surfaces when cleaned, and polished look fantastic.

The problems occur when painting over seams or other areas of the model where
‘body work’ in the form of filing and sanding are necessary.

This paint applies thin and is unforgiving…It shows all the imperfections of the model.
I found that even when presenting a filed, glass smooth finish…there are notable
differences in the finish. When comparing that of the sanded and that of the other
untouched surfaces of the model one notices less of or a different type of shine.

Another concern is masking…even with a low-tack masking film such as tamiya’s mask
or model master…when lifting the tape after painting…can cause the painted finsh to
lifted off in places as well as leave spots of missing paint…

Even with several coats of the metalizer clear overspray protector/sealer and ample drying time
similar results can occur.

Finally, the metalizer paints carry with them a strong odor and as indicated on the bottle
more harmful vapors than the usual model master enamels… so safety precautions are
necessary.

In Conclusion,

I wouldn’t write this line of paints off completely…the various metalizer finishes have proven very
effective in painting many parts of a model to resemble a metalic finish. It is best used however
on surfaces with little or no flaws or imperfections…If your kit requires a lot of seam work or filing and
sanding I would avoid using the metalizer lines…They will show through the finish.

In addition, you should forget using it if you have to mask over it to paint another color…The finish can
become damaged.

As a result of such flaws, this limits the successful use of the metalizer line.

Use these paints on smaller areas or areas of your model without repaired seams (ie: jet aircraft
nozzles, machine guns, etc, and you’ll enjoy the results.

Thanks for listening and hope this will help to keep you from becoming frustrated.

Tank

2

Thanks Tank, good info! I do use metalizers occasionally. I like the burnt metal for exhausts etc. Just don’t touch.

dragonfly

3

Thanks Tank ,very good info . Thanks for sharing.

4

it is a property of all metal paits that they show imperfections.

5

Good summary Tank. I have used these paints for quite awhile, but usually only in small areas that can be brush painted. Landing gear struts, jet exhaust inside and outside, small metallic areas, etc I particularly like the Buff Magnesium for unpainted landing gear. It is a good compromise between the too bright of silver and the too dark of most metallics.

Darwin, O.F. [alien]

6

I agree with your conclusions, that’s why I only use Alclad2 for NMF. You still need a blemish free finish, true for any NMF, but Alclad2 is far more durable & can withstand masking with low tack tape such as Tamiya.

Regards, Rick

7

Thanks for the tips guys. So far I´ve never done an entire a/c in NMF, so I´ve only used Humbrol enamels for gears and burner cans so far(the result is ok when airbrushed, but not breath taking). This gives me some advice when I try one of these products

8

A couple of thoughts:

I paint the colored areas first then mask them for the NMF. It is a pain but with every NMF you risk having the mask pull up some of the finish and/or discolor it. As for the areas that required putty work, I apply a sealer over the putty and do not get the different hue that you get if the NMF is applied directly over the putty.

I have also used Floquil RR colors “Old Silver” and “Platinum Mist” as a base coat for the buffing melalizers. It also provides a coat that does a good job of hiding the putty. However, the Floquil lacquers are getting harder to find.

I have not tried the Al Clad aluminum on an aircraft yet, but the Chrome finish looks real on a car bumper. I’m waiting to use the Al Clad on a P-51 and see how it compares.

SNJ metalizer provides a beautiful NMF but if you touch it it tarnishes. If you seal it, it does not look real any more.

9

Tank -
You’re right on all accounts, really.
Masking CAN be done on MM Metalizers…like specific panels on fairly flat surfaces - either by using strips of damp newsprint or (carefully) Post-it-notes.
The paint really IS quite fragile, but has great coverage, great colors and the buffable paints can create an extremely realistic sheen - it’s just painful to have to handle the model or to weather the painted surfaces.
I use the stuff all the time on airliners.
As with ALL NMF’s, the surface MUST be perfect - this includes ALL seams and putty work. Most people use some type of gloss paint as a primer - gloss black is suggested for Alclad.
But for overall coverage, I believe that Alclad ll is better for this purpose. The surface is nearly bulletproof once dry - and then you can mask and weather specific panels with no problems.
I short - the Model Master Metalizer range is fantastic - I use them all the time and have nearly all the colors. I’ll continue to use them and get great results - but probably not with an overall NMF plane.
But the Alclad ll is probably a better option. Give that a try - you’ll be glad you did.

10

Leem,

When you get the chance and if you woudn’t mind…could you go into more
detail about Alclad II and how it’s used…I’ve never tried working with it
so i’d be interested to know from someone with first hand experience.

Thanks,
Tank

11

Thanks for all the tips…
This is one reason why I have not built a NMF aircraft yet… and I am very interested in hearing about the Alclad II as well.

12

I have a book that describes a SPECTACULAR way for doing burner cans. Extremely labor intensive. First you AB the base coat of just plain old bright silver. And then you AB blue ink in a loob pattern on each section of the can, and then dark brown ink and finally black ink. The results were AMAZING.