I have a problem with Model Master chrome silver or silver chrome. I’ve had the paint for a while and the paint name has been worn off so I can’t remember which one it was called.
Ok, so when I paint over a place that I painted with the silver color, the silver smudges underneath the color I am painting over it with. If I paint over it with a flat color it will dry kind of a gloss color or the silver will mix with the color and completly mess up the paint job. There was one time I painted a P-38 the silver color and about a year later I painted over it with olive drab and it still smeared. So it can’t be because the paint is still wet. I really like to use Model Master paints and that is the only color I have ever used from them that does that. Does anybody know why it does that?
This is one of the reasons I don’t use Model Master paint. Metallics are particularly problematic. I am assuming that this is an enamel, but the comments apply to acrylics as well.
What is happening is that the silver pigment is floating to the surface, and teh paint film is not sufficiently strong to hold it there. This is either a formulation defect or the paint has gone bad. For the most recent problem, the solvents in the paint you are applying over the silver are attacking the surface of the silver paint. I assume you are airbrushing. If the paint has not gone bad, applying both the original silver and the overlying paint in multiple, thin coats may help.
I cannot recommend any enamel silver paint. I have recently used Humbrol with success, but they seem to have quality control problems, based on the number of complaints I’ve seen. Consider Alclad II—if you’re doing organic solvent. They are lacquers, but excellent. For acrylics, the only metallics I can recommend are Hawkeye’s Talon—superior paints, but read Hawkeye’s instructions on his web site and watch the videos.
When I go back to my older builds, I get paint rubbing off on my hands (especially the silver) and decals start to flake. I’ve started putting a clear coat (flat or gloss as appropriate) over my finished models. Helps to seal everything in.
I love the sheen that model master chrome silver leaves–as long as you leave it alone! I always only use a brush so it can make little parts for an engine or cockpit look like chrome, but only if they will eventually be beyond reach.
Enamel is notorious for its slow drying, so be sure the previous coat is thoroughly dry. Since I use MM enamels almost exclusively I built a drying box to speed things up. I have never had problems with crome silver or gloss silver as long as I let previous coat dry well. I like the fact that Testors has both a flat aluminum and a gloss silver.
Any aircraft calling for silver, I usually go with my Tamiya Baremetal Silver in the rattle can. It lays down really nice and smooth when you do it several light coats.
Yeah that’s the down side of gloss enamels, they take forever to dry. Some gloss colors seem to dry a little faster than others. From my testing International Orange FS 12197 #2022 took seven to eight days to dry. It does help to apply the paint in very light coats. The Flat paints can be re-coated in four to four and a half hours. Semi-Gloss I would give them a day to dry before re-coating. To mask over I let the flats and semi-gloss paints dry a full day.
Another revived thread from 7 years ago. I have never had an issue with MM enamels, gloss or flat. Both are excellent and dry fast and are very durable. I have used the MM Chrome Silver many times without any issues.
Gloss or flat finishes I mask the next day . Now for polishing as I did with my Blue Angel Hornets, I let the paint dry for at least 5 days then polish to a mirror finish with Novus polish.