What vendor do you use to buy them (mail-order)?
What is the best way to apply these pigments? can you just brush them on after all the final details and weathering is done, or do you have to apply them with come kind of adheasive or thinner. thanks
Check out www.migproductions.com for tutorials,You can use the dry,or if you have an acrylic finish,they can be fixed with thinner,if you have an enamel finish,they can be fixed with alcohol or water,it all depends on the effect you are looking for,check out the tutorials.
Ordering them direct from the MIG website is like half the cost of buying them through SprueBrothers or wherever.
I apply them with a brush, rub them in nice and good, and then dabble Mona Lisa Odorless Thinner over them with a big soft brush. But I’m thinking I may try airbrushing the thinner next time. Low PSI at a distance and I’m pretty sure the pigments wouldn’t fly off. But then I always apply them over a flat surface so they’ll work in better.
hmm. i have some Mig Pigments but havnt used them just as yet, i will be soon though.
- What type of thinner can you use exactly with them.
-Can you mix them together before hand then apply to the model.
-do they also dry as if they had no thinner at all.
-Do you have to ‘seal’ them with a clear coat after?
sorry bout all these questions
thanks =)
I read somewhere to think of them like powdered paint. And they kind of are, I guess. If you mix them with a base, they pretty much act like paint. I mixed a Russian Earth and Fresh Mud with some MIG acrylic resin and Future to slop mud on my recent Panzer IV build:
I believe you can use most any thinner to lock the pigments in place. Think that their own literature recommends white spirits or iso, but I prefer Mona Lisa as it doesn’t harm anything (I’ve brushed oils thinned with it over unprotected enamel with zero issues several times now). And you can buy it in large quantities for relatively cheap at Hobby Lobby, Michaels etc.
As for mixing beforehand, you certainly can. Depends on the look you’re going for I guess. That’s a good way to run pigments into nooks and crevices, certainly. and yes they do dry just as well.
You don’t have to seal them. I have, and I haven’t.
Best thing I’ve found to do with them is experiment. Play around and get a feel for how they handle. Once you do that it’s pretty easy to get creative with them.
Wow! Nice panzer!
Hmm seems pretty straight forward. i use acrylic base paints so should i go for an enamel thinner for the pigments then?
thanks for ur help Doogs
It’s really personal preference, but I tend to stay away from enamels (sinus issues). Oderless Mineral Spirits work well as does water with a bit of dishwashing liquid (to break surface tension). The Mig Thinner and Fixer are both strong enamel based (and a bit too expensive for something you probably already have).
I’ve found that if you apply them wet, you get a stronger color. If you want fading or are using the metallic pigments, it’s easier to apply them dry with a brush or your finger. Finger oils are astounding good at burnishing pigments.
Recently, I’ve been playing around with mixing them with Future…they essentially become paint (pigment + binder and medium). And with that, you can airbrush them. The pigments are so fine that they won’t clog up an airbrush anymore than other paints do (just mix them thoroughly).
You may also want to check out this old article by Mig: http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw05.htm