Start Date 05-26-07
This log will start the build of the Midwest Boothbay Lobsterboat Kit #964. It is an R/C eletric Scale Model.
The Boothbay Lobsterboat is a generic scale model of a typical 30 foot Maine Lobsterboat.
Hull Length: 30"
Beam: 10"
Radio: 2 Channel
Scale: 1" = 1’
Donnie
Basic kit evaluation:
It seems from my initial observation that everything is very well laid out for a true novice builder. Actually, I shouldn’t put a catagory on this vessle. In the case with this Lobsterboat, it is not at all about a builders abilities, but just having fun building a nice boat that can either be static displayed or having an R/C motor installed. By the way, I will go ahead and mention that the MEPS-III motor from Midwest already has the speed control attached and prewired to it. You will have to have a servo (standard it seems) attached to the speed control. I was thinking that a nice speed control that has a smooth variable spped would be nice, however, this is not what you get with the MEPS-III. It seems rather clunky from the fact that you have two speeds in both forward and reverse. This will do for now as I am not up to researching and buying more electronics for this unit. Maybe in the future.
The wooden parts come in 5 packaged bags which I like, instead of having all the parts thrown into a box. This is a nice departure of what I have seen before. Then you have an accessory bag and a hardware bag - of which again keeps all the parts separated until needed.
Right off, I must say that in bag #3, was some what they refer to as “sub decking” planks that had a slight bow or warp to them. This is really no problem. I just used a non scientific approach and ran some very warm water over the boards just enough to get them wet. I did not soak the boards. I just barely put just enough warm water on them to coat the face and back of boards. Then I laid them on a flat surface with a flat heavy weight on it - like a thick book will do -until dry. I noticed that even after about 5 minutes, the boards were already showing signs of straightening ! Don’t let a bowed or warped board get you down or upset, usually this is very fixable.
The manual is the best manual I have seen (so far) in my wooden kit building experiences. But that is not saying much at all, because, I only have one completed wooden ship under my belt. The manual is 95 pages long - not that it is so much a difficult build that Midwest needs 95 pages, but the pages are filled with pictorials and many steps that to some, might be unnecessary, but I like it - I need all the help I can get!
One other thing about the Manual is that the kit came with a supplement that had corrections sheet in it. The instructions are to cut out each correction and place it in the corresponding section. I did this with no problem, and I suggest that this is done first before you do anything, because there are some situations that will cause you some grief if you do not go ahead and make those changes in the manual - beucase, if you are like me, you will forget!
Well, its about time to check those sub deck planks to see how they are coming along. I can’t think of anything else.
I would mention that if anyone wants to offer a suggestion - I do have a question that I do not have any experience with and that is using the “Slow drying Epoxy” or"Polyester Resin" used to bond figerglass to the hull and water proof the interiorof the Hull. Never done this before!
Thanks for any input,
Donnie
A very humble beginning !
Donnie
Hi Donnie,
By no means are you required to use the included motor and speed control. I would opt for a mtroniks viper and a 700 graupner if it were me. Even a 500 motor would be ok. But the speed control doesn’t need to be servo operated. In real life these boats get up and run.
You might also try this forum as thye build mostly r/c models.
http://www.rcgroups.com/boats-54/
Tug
Building the frame and laying the deck. I plan to build up my own deck planking.
Donnie
Frame is completed. I will start with staining the deck with English Oak.
Stain on Deck using Model Expo “Colonial Pine” # MS4976
Donnie
I did not like the stain as it is way too dark for me - so I stripped off all the stain and put down English Oak stain from Model Shipways. The things that have been done since last posting is:
#1 adding the chine logs
#2 Run the tubing for the Radio Rx Antenna
#3 Run the tubing for the Rudder Control
#4 Made provisions for the Rudder post
#5 lined up the subdeck flooring (which is not shown) for proper fit.
#6 Made sub deck hatch cover which is not shown.
#7 used Plane to shape and form the Chine Logs to the shape of the hull.
#8 applied PT-40 Zap Finishing Resin to underside of frame for water proofing.
#9 Fit the Motor and Universal Joing (Dogbone) for proper fit
Donnie
Hi Donnie,
Could you tell me about the decking? It looks like the grain runs fore to aft but the lines follow the curve of the beam. Is this the way it is? Did you cut out the planks or is this part of the kit?
Tug
Well,here’s the deal. The laser cut upper main deck portion came in two halves (running long ways). The grain runs full length on these laser cuts. What the manual says to do is to take a pencil and follow the “curve” of the deck. This is opposite of what you or I would find on a typical tall ship as with a typical tall ship ALL of the decking runs straight from stern to bow and usually we will taper or nip each decking plank as it butts into the bulwark. Not so with this Lobsterboat, they want you to “simulate” the planking bending and forming to the curvature of the bow. So this is what I did, however, I took it a step further and took an Xacto knife and simulated my own decking planks. I then took a scriber and ran down each groove that the Xacto knife made to widen the false planking. I then decided to add detail to the decking my adding nail holes and other features to make it look like separate planking was added. I know it looks awkward, but this was decided on based on the manuals suggestions. Appearently, the decking on this type of vessle runs to follow the curvature of the bow, etc. I hope I made some sense out of this response of mine.
Thanks for tuning in to this build
Donnie
I don’t think it looks awkward at all. On the contrary I think you did a great job with the decking. This is what confused me. You did such a great job I thought it was planked using very thin material. It is pretty hard to cut lines across the grain of wood. I remember trying it on a Dumas Victory Tug. I only asked because I wasn’t sure how you did it. Thanks for the information. I also agree the lighter color stain is a better look for the decks.
Take care
Don
Thanks !
I wish to desribe one other method on this. When the laser cut Upper deck pieces were removed from the parts package, it left (as a template) the curvature of that upper deck. THe directions wanted me to use that scrap piece (as a template) to lay in place and take a pencil and to trace that same curvature along the decks surface. This is how I maintained the “same” curvature is using the left over stock (of where the deck was taken from the stock).
To make sure the Xacto did not slip (and it did at some locations), I used clamps to clamp the scrap template down to the upper deck. This way I could rest the Xacto up against the scrap template and make sure that the knife followed along nicely. Then I would unclamp and move the scrap template about 1/4" up to the next false planking should be. That upper deck is made from Plywood about 3/32" thick which I could get by with a nice deep cut.
The lines of the planks show up only becuase I had used that dark stain to begin with. I couldn’t get the stain out of the crevices and nail holes of the planking, so it came along as a blessing in the end. Sometimes I have found that mistakes can work for you in the end!
This kit had alot of warped wood. The flooring or subdecking is almost horrible. It is good that I am armed with alot of clamps - and to whoever esle buys this kit - get alot of clamps!
BTW - thanks for your compliments
Donnie
Hi Donnie,
What I have done in the past with another companies warped wood was to lightly soak it in water and sandwich it between 2 pieces of waxed paper until it dried with weights on top. Thanks for reaffirming that it wasn’t just me that had problems keeping the xacto knife on track in this type of process. It is difficult but you have done very well in it. I wish I had a template to use. Next time I will make one up and remember this process.
The dark stain looks real good between the planks. A new technique I just read about involves using a powered paint, mixing it with white glue and injecting it with a hypodermic needle in between the planks. I haven’t tried it myself yet but those that have seem very happy with the finish look. It sands easily retaining the color. I haven’t yet tried to search out the powered paint they talk about. The process sounds promising I have a F/G hull lobster boat 36" long to build and will try it out on the decks. Good build so far I look forward to more posts.
Don
I was going to mention that the dark stain worked to your advantage and looks great between the planks, …
But you already noticed!! [:D]
Rough outlines of the hull are coming together.
Donnie
Got the hull done with the supplied balsa. Even though the directions do not say, I had to really wet down the balsa to make it fit the curves. You had to glue two sheets of balsa together and take this large sheet and glue it down. Yep, it saves a lot of time in (not planking), but dealing with large sheets of balsa has its own problems.
What you see here is starting to fiberglass the hull halves.
Donnie
Hi Donnie,
I wondered what weight cloth you were using the 3/4 oz or a bit heavier? When I planked my hull I used 1/32 plywood making a template first of card stock. I remember those curves quite well. The work continues to look real good.
Don
Well, I have zero experience up until now, using Fiberglass. The parts list that came with ship only says “microglas cloth”. There is no designation as to the weight. What I can do is give you a picture - all I can say is that I do not have any previous knowledge to know if this is really thin or what - but I can say that whatever weight it is - it is very thin and shear !
Donnie
One picture is worth a thousand words as they say. It looks like what Midwest sells as 6/10 or 3/4 oz cloth. It is pretty nice to work with. I have been using a bit heavier cloth now 2 oz it seems to follows curves better.
For future reference, have a spray bottle full of water mixed with vinegar and spray the sheets as you curve them around the contour. I have used this technique many times on the three F4U Corsairs and other scale RC planes with a ton of sheeting that I have built.
On laying the glass, some prefer the static electricity method where you rub the glass cloth over a wool cloth in order for it to stick to the balsa via static electricity. I prefer to use 3M adhesive spray for large radius contours. The tackyness of the spray allows enough hold to be able to stretch out any wrinkles and roll out the air bubbles with a small ink roller. It also makes it easier to apply the resin by eliminating the risk of the cloth lifting during the cure.