Micro Set / Micro Sol issue

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Decaling
1

Greetings All,

Question: I painted my F8F on 9/21 with Model Master enamel. Finish looked great so I thought I’d go straight to decals which I did on 9/29, a week later. Micro Set and Sol turned all the paint it touched milky white. So I stopped decaling at that point. Of course after drying a couple days the finish had improved but still required some very fine sanding to remedy damage to paint. So I thought prolly needs a coat of Pledge before finishing decaling. The Pledge remedied the previous blemishes to the paint. I dried Pledge upon spraying with hair dryer and waited two days to finish decaling. Same result on the Pledge as on the enamel.

Is this normal or is because paint and Pledge were not fully cured? Oh, there’s this … the Micro Set and Sol are 30 years old. No really. Been out of modeling for bit. LOL. Could that be a factor?

2

Hello. I’ve had Micro Set occasionally turn Pledge Future milky, but it always dries back clear. Never had Micro Sol do that that I can remember.

When I have applied them to uncoated gloss paint I’ve never noticed that effect.

Maybe it is their age, and water has evaporated leaving whatever “active” ingredient there is in a more concentrated state?

3

Thank you. That is what occurred to me. Have new bottles. Am gonna toss the old.

4

I am surprised about the micro set affecting the paint- never had that happen. Are you sure it was the set and not the sol?

5

Yeah I may have gotten that backwards… The SOL occasionally turns the future milky, but never any permanent effects. Never had SET act like that.

And I’ve never noticed any effects on bare paint from either.

6

Don,

No not sure as I used one after the other. I have gone to my new bottles thinking the 30 year old stuff has prolly concentrated.

7

Yes and, neither product is anything I use unless I have to.

Differences in decals, pebbly molding.

I use set a little to get the edges to lay doen. I only use sol when the cause is on life support.

Bill

8

Just my two cents, Ive seen sol have bad reactions with paint in the past, but when clear coated properly theres no issue. I spray a good layer of tamiya gloss clear, then decal, then coat in flat clear before weathering and decals go down great. Hell I’ve seen sol do funky things when the model didnt have a heavy enough clear coat applied before decaling. A good layer of clear coat before decaling and you should be good to go.

9

I think we need to keep in mind what these two different liquids do, and what is in them.

Setting agents are for reducing the surface tension of the water. They are more commonly known as wetting agents. If the water wets the painted surface better, the decal will be in more complete contact with the surface. The most common wetting agent is acetic acid. If you have ever done photo darkroom work you remember the stuff. Dilute soap/detergent solutions are also wetting agents. Acetic acid is the main constituent of vinegar. If you want to cut costs by using vinegar, be sure to use white vinegar. Other types of vinegar have other constituents, including sometimes a fine powder which is not good on your model

Decal solvents, however, soften the decal so it conforms to bumps and curves better. However, as a solvent, overuse can destroy a decal. Also, after you apply the solvent the decal will be very soft, so you must touch it with true tender car- best if you don’t touch it at all. Decal solvents usually contain any of various organic solvents.