Metalizers

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Painting and airbrushing
1

Hi all,

Just a quick question about metalizers. I have never used them before and have seen great results by using them on aircraft. So here’s my question, do you have to mix metalizers with anything or apply them with certain technique, or are they like regular paints?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

2

Are you referring to Testor’s Metalizer paints? So many have use the term metalizers as a generic term for so many of the various brands of NMF paints.

Testor’s Metalizers are ready straight from the bottle. You will have to seal them or find yourself cursing if you don’t as they are delicate and easily damaged.

3

Yes I plan on using Testor’s metalizers.

4

I use Alclad. It also is generally used straight from bottle.

5

All of the above named metallizers need to be sprayed on, either from the rattlecan (Testors) or airbrushed.

Testors comes in both rattle can and bottled liquid form, Alclad is liquid only. They are both ready for airbrush use, and should not be thinned.

Paint brushes don’t work with them.

Testors metallizers need to be buffed with a cloth or paper towel shortly after they dry, to bring out the sheen. No buffing for Alclad.

Use Testors metallizer sealer after buffing to your satisfaction. Alclad does not need a sealer coat, and it will, in fact, dull the nice finish.

6

  1. Metalizers are ready to go straight from the bottle

  2. You don’t have to mix them with anything, though some (like Testors) have to be sealed afterward.

  3. Technique-wise, it seems like most metalizers go on best in light, misting coats built up in layers.

Personally I prefer either Alclad or Talon to Testors, but everyone has their preferences…

7

Note that not all of the Testors Metalizers are buffable. Some are not meant to be buffed after application and to do so with those may destroy the finish. Whether they are or are not buffable is indicated on the jar.

8

You are correct, sir! I forgot to mention that- thanks for adding this information.

9

Hello;

Can you spray Alcad directly on the plastic without a primer?

Bill

10

There are those who do, but it is with risk due to Alclad being a lacquer based product. I guess if you want to spend all that money, time and effort to apply something that hot to bare plastic that could craze or even melt the plastic, go for it.

Me I prefer something else either enamel based. Hence the reason I acquired a company that produced just such a product. Then I went ahead and created an acrylic option too. But that’s just my [2cnts].[8-|]

11

Note also that if you use a buffable metal finish (eg. Testors/MM buffable metalizer, Gunze Mr Metal Color or similar) your primer coat will affect the final sheen. If you want a highly polished metal finish, use a nice slick gloss primer. Use of a flat primer may cause your finish to look worn and pitted.

I’ve had a few test sprays with Gunze’s Mr Metal Color range and I’m liking the results. They’re a very fast drying acrylic formulation (dry and buffable in about 5 mins when applied lightly) but may not be readily available in some (ok, most) areas. I’ve only found one shop here in Sydney (Australia) which stocks them.

12

MM metalizers look great but are very delicate to work with. They can not be masked very well, and sealer coat tends to affect the look of the natural metal finish. My attempt at a natural metal finish on a P-51D was a disappointment. I will try again someday with either Alclad or Hawkeye’s products.

13

I have the SNJ metalizer which I used on my F3F-1 and will use on my upcoming SBD-1. I just asked about Alcad because there is a lot of coflicting info out there about how to use it. I like the SNJ product very much. The MM product is very fragile even with the sealer applyed.

Bill

14

I wouldn’t advise it. Alclad depends upon the base it is applied over much more than normal paints. It is intended to be used over a very glossy black. Anything else destroys the sheen. The gloss black coat must be flawless.

15

The Hawkeye product is a very good compromise for weekend modelers in term of ease of use, robustness and finish look. There may be better NMF product such as Alclad-II for more dedicated modelers. I have not tried it myself.

I tried Talon, like it and stick with it. I still use MM and Tamiya spray can occasionally.

16

I have recently applied, with airbrush, Alclad polished alumium directly on a black plastic polysteyrene surface, no primer or gloss enamel paint, the result was a wonderful bright metal finish. No sealer necessary over it.