Ive read in a number of posts where kits either have a metal barrel or the person has purchased one separately. What is the reason for this? Is it more accurate detailing or something that Im missing completely? Im aware of the detail kits, tracks and figures that can be purchased aftermarket. Is this a similar purchase?
It can be because the kit barrel is less accurate, but most of all, I belive that most people buy metal barrels because they don’t have to fill the seem that the kit one brings…
EDIT: They can be purchased just like other AM or PE parts.
Hope that helped, Anthony.
Thanks! I can understand the desire to avoid having to fill that seam and then all the treatment of the part to get it looking perfect when an aftermarket barrel would be easier, cleaner etc. Ill have to consider this on my kits. Again, thank you.
Believe it or not, many kit makers get the barrel length wrong or leave off details. This would be a reason to get a replacement. Most kits have excellent plastic barrels, and it is strictly a matter of preference to buy a turned barrel. Some turned barrels leave detail behind as well, so it is best to chose wisely. What are you missing? I would say not much, as I have used both.
Some modellers are adamant that these aluminum barrels are a waste of money, I wouldn’t go that far, and, if the trend continues, a lot of kit makers will supply these barrels in thier kits anyway.
Steve
Thanks for the additional info. Ill be sure to check the detail quality of any aftermarket barrels I consider. I dont want to sacrifice one problem for another 
They may well do that. Guess what? The consumer will end up paying for it. Remember when Dragon kits were easily under $30? They have risen dramatically since they have been putting out all these super kits. Mind you I’m not complaining about paying a bit extra for many more details and we all come out ahead as oppossed to buying them on the AM market.
Yep, it’s a double edged sword, so to speak. I mean, just look at the leftovers in all those 3&1 kits. The sprues that aren’t used, parts from one version to another that aren’t used, etc. After building a number of Dragon kits this year, I have enough turned brass ammo to start my own ammo dump!
I used the plastic barrel on my DML late Tiger. I just thought it looked better. It makes you wonder sometimes if paying for all those extras and not using all the parts is a good thing. I’m not complaining by any means, I don’t normally consider prices when I buy my toys. Maybe a better stragedy would be to offer kits as separate versions, like in the old days, and when you were done building, the sprues would be empty?
Steve
on weapons without a muzzle brake,the rifling may be visible–this is very noticeable on these guns-- many AM makers have this detail on thier product – im pretty sure in 1/35 and absolutely sure in 1/16[:D]–also somtimes a plastic barrel isn’t as true in srtaightness as it should be-- not to expensive either in my opinion[8D]-- treadwell
Yes and no about the price increase. Remember the Dragon Imperial Series from back in the 90’s? They were always $35+ and you didn’t get all of the extra pe and metal barrels, except for maybe a pair of screens for the Panzer III Ausf. G and Panzer III Ausf. M/N kits. With all of the extras that the new Tigers and the M4A3(76) Battle of the Bulge version include, $37-40 isn’t all that bad.
Those “Imperial Series” kits were usually Gunzye molds, of so-called “premium” models. However, their Panzer III and Panther chassis had the torsion arms molded on, like the old Tamiya kits, and the detail was not as sharp as most of the other Dragon kits of the time, and not even close to Tamiya’s 90’s kits. The new kits out now are a bargain by any stretch. And don’t forget, the price increases also reflect the artificially inflated price of oil, which is a component of plastic.
But to answer the original question: Yes, I think aluminum barrels are worth the extra expense, especially if you’re getting old and lazy like me. And in 1/16th scale, they’re almost a necessity!
Interesting replies, everyone. Thank you all. In the kit that I bought last night, I ended up with a metal barrel. I dont believe Ill be using it as the version of 251 Im going to make is the “Falke”. The kit I bought is the Dragon Sd.Kfz. 251/D 3 in 1, Kit no. 6233 and I only paid $18 for it. Like everything else, when I modeled before, that shiny barrel goes into my toolbox for another project. Wooo hoo…my first extra part!
I have the same kit. now have fun with the indie track pieces
I guess I’ll be one of the few dissenters. If you have to buy the metal barrel separately, I feel it is a waste of money. If it is in the kit, I may use it, may not, depending on how the plastic barrel looks. I can make any plastic barrel look good with proper sanding and maybe a little filler, usually don’t need it though. I am pretty much a scratch builder for extra details and don’t waste the money on PE sets and AM barrels etc. I can make them look great without all the exrta money. Works for me.
Bilbirk said: “I have the same kit. now have fun with the indie track pieces.” Boy you ain’t kidding! I saw that and about croaked. EZ Trak my butt LOL!
One of the first kits I can think of is the Jagdtiger kit by DML. They used the APG Jagdtiger for their measurements and the barrel is in the full recoil position,[:O] so the barrel is too short, you could lengthen it or buy a AM barrel the correct length, Another was the Sturer Emil kit the kit barrel lacks some of the detail that the more complex AM barrels duplicate. One of the AM barrels is a little on the large size but when you look at the finished kit with it it looks like the real thing with that huge muzzle brake on it.
I think it come down to what you want to model and how close to real you want to get, and how good your modeling skills are. After I did my first Fruil track on my Ferdinand and marveled at their look I just had to go and buy an AM barrel to get rid of the seam on my gun. The other kit I used an AM barrel set on was my Maus and I used a Russian 152mm barrel on my E-100, but since it was a paper panzer you can do things like that[:O]. I also up-gunned my Swedish S tank to 120mm using an AM barrel from either a Leopard II or M1A2.
The barrel on the Dragon Jagdtiger is the correct length. I done some lookin’ an’ thinkin. Check this out: http://www.onwar.com/tanks/germany/tfjagdtiger.htm Do the math. Barrel overhang: 2.86 meters = 112.59842 inches. or 9 ft .3832016 inches translates to 9 ft and 19/32 of an inch. (9 ft 4.598419 inches) In 1/35 scale that would be a barrel overhang of 3 and 7/32nd of an inch. (3.2170977 inches) Now add 3 and 7/32 of an inch from the front of the hull and compare that to where the kit barrel actually ends? There you go.
well, if you think those are bad look at the 1/72 scale indies! I just finished trumpeters FAMO that has links that are 1/8 of an inch wide and have six attatchment points!
Metal or kit barrels,it is up to the person who is making the kit.As for me I find that on some of the old model type kits/old style before heat covers and all that,that the kit barrels are pretty good in quality.This gos for the WWII kits were some barrels have casting marks on them others like the post modern era you can update by scratch building parts on them.I would spend the money on metal barrels when I find the kit barrel is warped real bad.Digger
Thanks again guys, for the additional information, and disastermaster, where are you getting calculations for barrel length in 1/35 scale? That looks to be really helpful. As for accuracy and realism, I want it as close as I can get. To me, thats what its all about.
To be brief, While doing the gun on my 1/16th T34, the plastic barrel was S***. It’s 2 halves were off center and even when polished it looked crap. When I bought the aluminium barrel I was amazed it was even rifled, and at 15bills a bargain.
Regards,
Terry.
P.S. I always try to use good quality metal barrels.