does anyone know a good way to weather a WW2 Messerscmitt 109[?] I understand they were not deployed commonly at sea, but all weathering techniques i´ve seen on FSM are applied to carrier-based fighters.
sorry it’s must be BF-109[Messerschmitt] if Fw-190 is Focke-Wolf
well I not sure do u mean put the oil colour in to nook of the kit???
If being that I have one book the advise about that but it in Thai 
well try to look in Find scale Modeller in I can’t remember month but it’s has HARTMANN plane 1+~ Bf-109G4 that magazine gonna help you I think . . . .
how ever if that number magazine I said have hartmann plane it’s must show you to weathering on main land not carrier-based fighter cause Hartmann didn’t flew on Aircraft Carrier sure
First off, look at the aircraft you are modeling and the kind of airfield it would be operating from. A desert 109f would not have mud stains, but will have picked up damage to the paintwork from the sand; think leading edges, especially prop and make the paint look chipped. I use an artists silver pencil for this. Similarly a Russian front 109g would have plenty of wet mud thrown onto the wing undersurfaces by the wheels. If in a white winter finish it may well show signs of the summer camoflage coming through where the paint wears. For a battle of Britain 109e, just a liberal smear of green on the underside the colour of good English grass!
109’s have lots of vertical panel lines on the fuselage and the pale blues used are very friendly to “forced shading”
In addition, During the battle of Britain, the Germans looked like winning the war. Aircraft and personnel were plentiful and servicing would have been top notch. By 1945 time and spares would have been in short supply and there would be more unwiped oil and exhaust stains, but again, look at the individual aircraft you are modeling, did it serve for months in constant use? or was it destroyed on the ground the day after delivery?
Snibble has given you no dribble! [:p]
He hit it on the head, squarely and firmly. Research the subject you are modeling, see what conditions it operated under and what it may have been subjected to. Take into account things such as natural weathering, maintenance, combat damage, and plain-'ole heavy usage. Here’s a short list of some of the “usual suspects”:
Exhaust staining
Oil / hydraulic streaks
Faded and / or stained paint
Chipped, scuffed and generally worn paint
Dirt, dust, grime (thrown-up dirt, sedimentation from rain, or greasy grimy hand prints from ground crews and such)
Replacement or repair of damaged parts or panels resulting in differing shades of the “same color” paint
Techniques are another matter, and there are many of them. But you can’t apply a technique if you haven’t a clue as to the end to which you’re applying it. Research, research, research!
Fade to Black…
Actually it’s Focke Wulf with a U.
Early Messerschmitts made in Bavaria had the “Bf” prefix (Bayerisch Flugzeugwerk), but later ones bult in other factories technically used the “Me” designator.
Most Focke Wulf products did indeed use the “Fw” prefix, but certain models attributed to designer Kurt Tank used “Ta.”
Thanks[:)]
Hey there…
actually I thought the standard german designation was the Bf (Bayerisch Flugzeugwerk) and that it was the Americans who were the first to call it Me 109. Hmmm anyway does’nt matter…
Cheers,
Nandakumar
snibble,
regarding your post on May 7th - what is “force shading”?
I may know it by another name; could you describe it very briefly? If it’s something new (for me), I’d like to learn about it.
thx
you people sure know how to change the subject.[:0]