Are these the same thing? because I just used Humbrol 33 “matt” black and it definately isn’t flat.
Yes, matte paint (or matt I suppose) is, or should be, the same as flat. The thing to remember is that matte paint uses a texturing agent (similar to talcum powder) to give the paint its flat appearance. The agent serves to break-up the light dispersment at the surface of the painted item. For this reason, matte paints has to be completely and thoroughly mixed or the paint will not exhibit its true matte appearance.
I can only guess that either the paint was not totally mixed or the agent in the paint has deteriorated for some reason (although I have never heard of this happening before). Additionally, as you dilute flat paints, you are also diluting the amount of flattening agent in a given sample. This can also account for a reduction in matte appearance.
I hope some of this helps.
Enjoy your modeling…
if it’s acrylic, try adding tamiya xf22 flat base
thanks Foster, like usual I have no patience and didnt bother to stir up the pot. I did shake it but that probably does nothing when all the pigment is stuck at the bottom in a big clump.
It is humbrol enamel, could i just put some MM clear flat acryl over it to dull it down a bit instead of striping the paint?
humbrol enamals are NOT acrylics, don’t mix the two, it will not work and ruin your paint. the only solution is to get a new bottle, or to apply the black, then apply a flat-basecoat like xf22 + future, or dullcote.
I don’t think he meant he was going to mix them, but spray a coat of flat over the enamel after it dried.
Casey that should work fine. Let the enamel dry thoroughly, say at least 24-48 hours, and you can spray a coat of flat acrylic over it with no problems.
I would let it cure completely then shoot it with some Dull Cote as 1337 said.
A little tip for the future:
Next time your in any store with a gun department (Walmart works), swing through there and pick up a container of BB’s. You can get 1000 for under $10 and they last forever. Every time you open a jar of paint, drop 3 or 4 BB’s into it before shaking. It REALLY helps to ensure that you paint gets thoroughly mixed. They are also reuseable. When the paint is gone, just clean the BB’s off with some thinner and use them in the next jar.
Enjoy your modeling…
Casey the dring time for emanels is one week for them to seal good espeaclly if you use a air brush.Digger
Thanks guys. I know I have a carton of BB’s laying around my room somewhere, hanks for the tip Foster.
If you want flat then I would buy some PolyScale Clear Flat as it has been recommended by some of the better modelers on this forum.
The Model Master Acryl flat clear is also worth looking at.
Mike
Yes. As Scott said, let it dry 48 hours and then shoot some clear flat over it.
Regardless of what some may tell you it is possible to put virtually any paint over another if sufficient drying time is allowed for.
Mike
I wouldn’t use BB’s. They are made of copper, which over time could react with the paint. I’d use glass stones that you can get in craft stores or stainless steel ball bearings. I went to a a surplus store a few months ago and they had bins of ball bearings around. I think it was $3.00 a pound. Bought a pound, and now I just drop one in each jar–they are around .25" in size, so that is plenty of agitation.
Dan
Dan,
Good tip there as well.
I suppose it’s possible for BB’s to react with some paints and glass beads or small ball bearings should both work. I’ve used BB’s for years in both MM enamels and Testors enamels and haven’t had any problems. At one time I had a small bottle of Testors white enamel that probably should have shown some reaction if there was going to be any, but after nearly three years, the paint was still perfectly white.
Enjoy your modeling…
I suppose it’s possible for BB’s to react with some paints and glass beads or small ball bearings should both work. I’ve used BB’s for years in both MM enamels and Testors enamels and haven’t had any problems.
I had a box of BB’s that were supposed to be copper but they were only copper coated and the paint caused them to rust inside the jars. I wasn’t happy. I would do the stainless steel ball bearings, the small ones.
Instead of adding things to the jar, just buy a Badger paint mixer like we were discussing in that other post.
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=25272
They work great! [;)]
Mike