Its my first attempt to do my P51 III RAF right (at least according to my skills ) and I came to the point of some help need - again [:)]
I painted aluminum (testors) in the areas where the wear (paint chipping) may occur. I did not paint the whole plane, just few areas where pilot or mechanics may step ans cratch oroginal paint. Than I masked it - sprayed a button part with light blue-gray ename (MM). Now its time to do a top portion spray but place some salt first. However, when I removed the mask (tamiya masking tape) I realized some glue is on the surface - how to remove the glue from the painted surface ?
I will have to use alcohol to clean the surface from my fingers (anyone uses cottong gloves to prevent finger marks on painted surface ? )
Its my second model after a very long break - just trying to come back to the hobby so any hint is very welcome.
I’ve had very good luck with a product called Goo Gone. It comes in a clear plastic squeeze bottle, is a yellow liquid and smells like oranges. I apply it to a Q-tip and use that to wet the unwanted adhesive. After a few seconds, I start gently rubbing the area to remove the glue. When the glue residue is removed, I wash the model in warm water and let it dry. Works very well on canopies also.
Be aware there is a product out there with a similiar name (Goo Off) which does the same thing. DON’T use it!!! While it is designed to work like Goo Gone, it’s made from petroleom distillates and eats paint and plastic very rapidly. It comes in a yellow metal can and avoid it like the plague. (care to guess how I know about it?)
You should be able to find Goo Gone in a hardware store, lumber yard or home improvement center. Hope this helps
Some tape pressed to the residue and carefully peeled away will sometime takes the residue with it. Take a few times to get it all. This is how I get the gunk left after taking Bare Metal Foil masks off a canopy.
Also great for getting chewing gum out of hair and clothes. VERY handy if you have kids[;)]
All great tips guys, ones I have tried along with rubbing an alcohol soaked Q-tip and also mineral oil (baby oil).
I re-read the original post and would like to add my [2c]
Before masking off or handling a painted area, especially with enamel paints, patiently wait for the paint to cure. Do a sniff test 48 hours after painting… does it smell like paint? Then wait a little longer. [V]
Not sure Greg if you are cleaning “dirty” finger prints with the alcohol or finger print impressions.
In any event, the dryer the paint, the less chance of tape residue and finger prints.
Oh yeah, avoid eating chocolate while modeling. It tends to make a mess. [8-]
I’ve become a big believer in Goo Gone. I use it all the time to remove residue, particularly the residue left by tape or Bare-Metal Foil on clear parts. Works great and smells good, too. Between that and Future, my workbench has taken on a decidely fresh air.
All hints are so helpful As I said before, I am new (after abut30 years) so each one of your tips is highly appreciated. I wash my kit before painting - and I think I wait about 24 hours prior to tape a mask. I will make sure next time the paint is cured (48+).
Last night I decided to get tamiya SMOKE paint (acrylic) and I am going to use it on my first model (Spitfire MkI) - which I think I will redo totally - I just made too many experiments and I think I overdo the wheathering ) Anyway, My question about the acrylic paint - can I use acrylic paint (tamiya smoke) on top ot enamel paint ? (sure ater its fully cured )
I have to lear on how to make those gunsmoke makrs and exhaust marks
There should be no problem applying an acrylic paint over a fully cured flat enamel. Applying it over a gloss might result in crawling, more commonly called crazing or alligatoring. To avoid that, sand the area to receive the acrylic lightly with 800 to 1000 grit wet or dry abrasive.
) Anyway, My question about the acrylic paint - can I use acrylic paint (tamiya smoke) on top ot enamel paint ? (sure ater its fully cured