Hi, building my 2nd aircraft ever, the Italeri 1/72 A-10A. I saw a youtube video where the person recommended using wet paper towels to mask the cockpit. I handpainted the cockpit details with Vallejo Model Color, and I’m worried the moisture would dissolve the paint.
How long do I need to wait for the vallejo to cure before trying this?
I don’t see how I could use traditional masking tape because the tape would cover up elements of the body that I would need to paint. Am I missing something here? I don’t recall facing an issue with my first aircraft model (BF-109) but that was a couple of years ago.
I glue the canopy on and mask it with tape. Often there’s some gap correction needed around the frame to fuselage join, and it makes more sense to do it before you lay on the color.
As far as wet tissue, a good idea in particular for landing gear bays. I would imagine a couple of hours would do it. The acrylic paints are water thinnable often, but are not water based or water soluble. As soon as the surtface cures, you’re good.
I just stuff my cockpits full of Kleenex tissue, cut in smaller pieces to fit, and use a tweezers to pack it in. It usually takes several layers to protect every exposed surface, but just keep cramming it in until it’s full. Use dry, not wet, tissue, and this will work fine. Leave it in there until you are finished painting the exterior of the model, and pull it out when you are done painting.
I put the canopies on as a last step, when all painting is done.
I usually make sure the canopy is a proper fit, making corrections to the canopy frame base until it is so. Then I mask the entire canopy with blue tape or liquid mask, use white glue to attach the canopy to fuselage. The white glue attaches it securely enough, plus acts as a sealant to prevent paint bleed through into the cockpit.
When the fuselage is painted and set up a bit, the canopy comes off easily enough and the blue tape lifts away quickly. I mask and paint the canopy off the model, then when finished it is attached to the fuselage, again with white glue. Works well for me, has for many years.
Water-based acrylic paints will start out water soluble when wet, but when they cure they are no longer water soluble. This is a result of the cross-linking of the acrylic polymers that occurs as the paint cures.
I don’t use Vallejo much, but I would think that 24 hours would be enough curing time. Also, the paper towels don’t need to be soaking wet, just slightly damp.
Why not spray a clear coat over the acrylics before masking? I use Model Master’s Acryl line of acrylics, and I usually clearcoat them before masking because they are prone to pulling up with the tape I mask with. But the clearcoat also protects from other issues.
I don’t prime until I have the canopy installed. I use white glue so a dab of water will allow me to remove it later if I feel I need to, like when I display them open. If I display it closed then I do the final install and fit prior to primer.
Red, re your specific question about Vallejo vs wet tissues, Vallejo is my current go-to paint, and I routinely stuff my wheel wells with wet tissues. Haven’t tried it on a cockpit yet though.
It’s usually well over 24 hours before I get around to stuffing, but based on my experience with Vallejo, hypertex is probably right saying 24 hrs. I wouldn’t do it until the classic ‘rubbery Vallejo’ feel cures and goes away though.
Thanks bringing up this topic again. Masking canopies with tape isn’t working for me anymore, and I am looking for alternatives, happy to read these ideas.
I generally mask my canopies that are more complicated than a single strip (like an F/A-18 or F-15/16) with bare metal foil and just stick them in place with some white glue until painting. decaling, and clear coats are all over. Then I umask and polish with Novus before the final install.
If its too complicated I go with the Eduard masks which is a HUGE help. The simpler canopies I use the regular sticky masking tape which stays on put and will not lift after a while on complex curves. I cut thin strips with my Exacto and lay out the outlines then fill in with larger tape pieces or just liquid masking.
It’s a time consuming method but worth the end results.
Sometimes I use the canopy itself to mask the opening,I also use facial tissues dampened,its’s not much moisture so I never had a problem with it ruining the paint.You could use a enamel clear if you are worried.I also have used cut up make-up sponges to fill the opening.
Ernie, thanks for the comment. I’m a big fan of Eduard masks too, my friend.
I made a typo in my comment. I said “Masking canopies with tape isn’t working for me anymore” whilst I meant to say “masking off cockpits with tape isn’t working…”. Sorry about that! My dad was right, I could screw up a two car funeral.
I’ve used wet tissue paper to stuff a cockpit to mask it, and I use acrylic paints. As noted in an earlier post, acrylics when cured should be OK with the moisture. My concern is always for any projecting bits that I might have already installed–joystick, throttle levers, etc. But you can break them just as easily using dry tissue paper to mask the cockpit.
If you do use tissue paper and you moisten it first, it helps when removing it to moisten it again, and to pull it out in little bits. As with so many things we do, being careful pays off.
I use small pieces of the yellow “packing” sponge which is very lighweight. I just stuff the canopy and it expands to fill all the gaps and easily absorbs the overspray. Seem easier than using tissues.