And so it begins…
Started cleaning up the resin parts, starting with the frame and engine, debating on getting the K59 suspension kit mainly for the idler spring. Seems Lions Roar didn’t want to deal with the undercarriage to much. The only thing I know right now is I got some brass to fold and need to stock up on OD.
Someone built up the LR full set up on planet armor. Rick Lawler’s blog has eleven pages of posts and replies [BG]
http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3755&highlight=m2a1
Thanks for that heads up, found the thread and reading now. And what a read! The guy is like ChukW of Armor.
holy cow! That’s a boat load of PE you’ve got there! Are you sure you haven’t bought a second kit? lol. By the way, off topic but, your dog is beautiful. I’ve got two.
HA! Thanks Taco but right now I think she’s a hussy! Possom or coon in the back yard and she kelp barking all night long, but I’ll forgive her because she’s a cutie. I wouldn’t think of having just one unless someone was home all the time.My other is a Malimut/Lab mix, both are Pound mutts.
Lots of PE is right, something like 13 sheets. After my last experience with resin AM Kit (for a b58 Hustler that turned out to be crap) I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of this stuff. Almost ever resin part is individual bagged. The brass bits like the .50 rounds and shells are bagged and carded so not to get lost.
I haven’t had time to read the referenced thread at the other site but I plan on practicing soldering PE on some Wildcat flaps that didn’t workout well. I had thought to use CE as a holder for the PE seeing I only have two hands to work with. Would anyone have any other suggestions on how to work with soldering PE?
No pictures yet, nothing to show but wanted to update.
I’m gettin jazzed up about this. Reading the thread at Planet Armor of a guy who did this build last year and I have some ideas. I think these hinges are made to work, he made them static. Not me. My attitude on this build will be one of each component will be a model within it self. I believe I will paint and weather as I go instead of getting it completely built then painting. Seam lines can be worked on as the build progresses but if it works the way I think it will make it look more natural.
As soon as I get all these low priority things done, (homerepair, mortgage payment) I’m going to get giggy with this bad boy and start with the repetitive small parts like doors and hinges. I’m really studying the instructions to make sure I don’t get ahead or behind on something where I can not assemble things when the time comes.
STudying about soldering brass as well. Heading to Radio Shack (something I’ve allways dread) to get some flux and solder, maybe this time will get a good test on joining some pe.
Well here’s my progress.
Henges…
Kudos to Rick Lawler over at Planet Armor for this technique:
Here’s the first part, the second is the opposite hinge with a single tongue. What happens is you start the bend at the base of the hinge and interleave the two parts,
What I did was use superglue and secured both parts on glass plate, after I did a couple of them I started working 3 or 4 at a time as you see here.
Next take the .03mm wire and lay it over the interleaved tongues and secure both ends with tape. You can’t see in this image but I started folding the outside tongues to secure the wire. I then started working from the outside to the inside till all tongues were folded over the wire.
Then I came back and gave it a bit more push on the tongues to secure them and clean up loose ends.
Popped off the hinges from the glass and slide the hinge to the end of the wire and clip the wire leaving the hinge pin in place. The only thing I’m worried about is the ease the pin comes out, need to figure out how to secure the pin, I’d like to score the wire in some way instead of a drop of glue. will test tomorrow.
And the product for today’s work? A Bag o’ Hinges.
Thanks for looking
Let me be the first to say: good for you with that. as Austin P. would say: that’s not my bag man.
MP - fine work there, but don’t get too into it, or you’ll come un-hinged! (Bad, I know, but it’s all I got!)
Seriously, looks good, I would thing that a crimp of some type would allow for holding the hinges well.
Hinges look outstanding!
If you have the option, replacing the wire hinge pins with the next bigger size wire might hold them in place better.
~J
p.s. Hey, check it out!!! My 1,000th post!!! [party]
Thanks for the suggestion J, think if I went higher gauge it will increase the size of the hinge itself.
IAMBRB check your private messages.
Hello,
Thanks for taking the time to cruise through my build on PA…( thanks Roy for the reference ). I gave a response to your question(s) on my thread:
http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3755
so I thought I’d swing by and see what you are up to.
You are correct, the larger guage will cause difficulties. I did, however, buy some (.18 guage?) wire which was stiffer that seemed to help make the hinges a little “crisper” in their workings.
You asked about the mating/alignment issue and whether or not building the chassis would help. Yes and no…I did build the DML chassis quite early and was able to test fit from time to time. The parts that matter most are related to the cab assembly…this must be spot on - square or you will have a devil of a time later as everything builds and depend upon the earliest steps.
If I may- this first photo shows the cab mostly assembled…there are some quite complex bends, and the parts don’t necessarily have locator points, but rather solder end to end. The two small flaps on the rear of the assembly (pointing upward) are the underside of the mudgards for the tracks/fighting compartment…this must align with the fighting compartment later for mating. Unfortunately there is no way to test fit at this stage.
The next area to make sure is square and even are the sides of the engine compartment/fender arches…if you are off here then your entire front will be uneven.
Finally…when you intall the front grille you have your first real test to see if you are in line and square.
Lastly…as you mentioned it is possible to do some test fitting with the DML chassis…here is what that looks like…it simply drops in.
Thanks you for the opportunity to discuss this build with you…it’s a very nice kit and I really had a blast working on it - I hope you enjoy it as well.
Rick
WOW, Rick! That’s HARD CORE there! LOL!
Beautiful work! I hope you’ll post a pic of it when it’s painted!
All I can say is wow!
Thanks, it is painted…
Tigerman…Vancouver? I’m just across the river in Portland!
Sorry to hijack your thread, Mood Puppy…it’s all yours.
Rick
Now I’m Doomed! Rick posted his work of art on my build and I can never live up to his work!! Oh woe!!!
Rick thanks so much for the reply and help. I had a marathon session today and did get started on the chassis. My thought process is to have the chassis complete, then the fighting compartement then lastly the cab, all building upon the next.
Here’s today’s work
As you can see the paint is literally drying. Doncha love the Idler Spring, all the way from Hong Kong! looks good but should have scratched it. You can see the kit engine in the back ground, not bad by itself but this one from LR is MUCH better. The triangular object is the radiator housing, mostly PE - the radiator itself. I opted to us CA on the PE, especially on the cosmetic stuff like the lip around the fan shroud, which you can’t see well in this photo.
Working on the road wheels and the rear suspension next.
Thanks so much for your help Rick and please feel free to comment, galk or laugh at what I’m doing.[D)]
Looking good, I couldn’t use that much PE, not after my current build the flakpanzer(t) gepard, its my first kit with after market PE
Such small piece are a pain to instant, espesally without a sauder iron, and I’ve already lost some pieces and had to srach build them.
What do you use to attache small pieces, too small for sauder and glue doesn’t work, whats the trick.
Super glue, T-rex.
Use super glue.
MP - that is so cool!
I am just re-starting after a 20+ year hiatus, and youse-doodz are a real inspiration to me.
Here’s progress so far.
A smudged acrylic black wash over enamel base, oddly the OD base started coming up with the Windex I use for acrylic thinner, even after an acrylic gloss coat. going to do a dusty wash next then a flat clearcoat and some dry brushing then move forward.
Here’s the engine, I do plan on having the hood either working, or posed open. I thought long and hard about trying to pose the wheels turned but cutting the tie rod would have been to hairy for me.
Spark Plug wires are .015 solder with a glob of CA on the end to attempt to look like the rubber boot over the spark plug. I could not find a picture of the engine so I’m not 100% sure on the firing order but I"m sure someone will correct me somewhere.
I was worried about the wash because it looked so thick but viewing here it does not look so bad. I have the water hoses to do and the radiator is just sitting there right now, think a wee bit a rust is in order.
low light shot
I"d like to run gas lines but not sure about the routing from the fuel pump to the carb.
Here the exhaust is in place, used MM Metalizer Burnt Iron for the manifold and exhaust pipe. Note, install the exhaust support BEFORE you finish the tracks, it weren’t easy putting it in place.
The Idler Spring may look funny because I had to extend the spring some to make it look like the spring was in contact with the rod. I really hate these tracks. they were a bear to install and work with. SURELY someone has some Aftermarket tracks for this thing.
Well there it is so far. That’s the majority of the plastic for this bad boy, starting next week with the rear compartment.