M113A2 - Completed Build - Pics

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

I just finished my Trumpeter 1/72 M113A2 Ambulance (Trumpeter calls it an “Armored Car”). It went together fairly well, I can’t blame any of the faults of the finished build on the kit.

First, a few standoff pictures. Makes it harder to see the flaws.

!(http://fynqoa.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pIleb-oTCJILj30rCkMlwskPw8jovLzjFehXNyokDazpq_YGFh1CVpUMZ9U3XUGxb0_IlCFF3Dx2ro4-aTOCrIS8DXDwX84tF/M113A2 020.JPG?psid=1)

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The box shows one finish (woodland camo with big red crosses) and the instructions show the sand finish. Decals for both are included, but the two-color crosses don’t line up right. No details as to when/where the vehicle is supposed represent.

Normally, I build with everything buttoned up. This time I opened all the hatches and put a little effort into the interior. Everything is OOB, so the interior is spartan to say the least.

Now for some closer shots. I started with the base coat of basic tan (the closet thing in my paint collection to official sand color), enamel of course.

!(http://fynqoa.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pXFXUijdvOWFjfmGntuF1USk3fNdTiy12gj9eff41XTSlX6ovihjHeEVZO2RdnTl3yupSBNLsDEaw5OHC2PrH3uroWCbg3FpW/M113A2 002.JPG?psid=1)

The decals went down well. A coat of future, then a little set/sol and they blended right in. The numbers were a pain as each digit was a separate decal. I think I put another coat of Future down over the decals after that, but I’m not sure.

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I used pastel chalk for the mud/dirt/dust/soot, mixed with some mineral spirits and just slapped on here, there, and everywhere. Then another coat of future to seal all that in.

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And finally a coat of clear flat to take the shine off.

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Can’t see the engine well at all, but it’s in there. OOB, so not a lot of detail, but that’s okay by me as I would usually leave it out. Also, you can see a honking big gap right in front. I had a little trouble getting the parts to line up, and after a while I gave up.

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Very spartan interior. The kit did come with the benches and a couple of boxes, but nothing else. I did a wash on the floor (my first one) and I thought it made the detail stand out well.

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I put the ramp in a opening or closing position. It doesn’t really make sense in a static display, but I didn’t want it all the way closed (because that is what I would usually do), nor all the way open (the outside of the ramp would not be seen and too much of the empty interior would be).

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I tried to sand out the ejector marking on the inside of the hatch, but I didn’t do all that great of a job

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Didn’t notice the missing part on the front, a cover for the drive shaft or sprocket or something. By the time I noticed it was missing, I was so far along that I didn’t want to try and repair it.

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A part I did notice I lost, and couldn’t just forget about, was one of the idler wheels. I glued several short lengths of sprue together and then started carving and drilling. Here is what the finished piece looks like. Not too bad…

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…as long as you don’t compare it to the original. It’s mostly hidden and doesn’t look awful from any distance other than close up.

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I had some trouble with the track (single lengths of vinyl). I waited until everything was assembled and then threaded the track over the wheels. When I went to join the ends, I couldn’t get them to line up well. I super-glued the heck out of it and still didn’t get it right.

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Both sides. If I had to do it all over again, I would have left off the side pieces while painting the exterior and put the tracks on with the join on the top, then put the side panels on. I didn’t as the connect into slots that are visible in the interior and I wanted to be able to clean those up with the top off.

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Last picture - the open top hatch. More ejector pin marks I didn’t get all the way out.

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Overall I’m pretty happy with this one. Trying new stuff and learning more each time.

Thanks for looking.

Paul

2

Overall it looks like you did a good job on the build, I really like the save on the lost idler wheel. Nice job there. I have some critiques on the finish. 1) IFOR vehicles were painted in three color NATO camo ,not desert sand. They came from 1st Armored division in Germany to Bosnia in early 1996. 2) the inner faces of the hatches should be NATO green, not the lighter interior green color. 3) the inner most headlights should be black, not silver, those are the IR lights for night vision use. 4) the top engine deck should be closed. It is a single piece that bolts shut that carries over to part of the front- it is only unbolted and opened for major maintainance. 5) the drivers hatch should be either fully open or fully closed, it does not have a partial open position like you have shown- it not latched in the fully open position any driver will get a nice split chin and resulting scar (like I have) for such an oversight.[whstl]

3

Hay Paul, you did a nice job on that, and I can’t wait to see it the next time we all get together.

Bud

4

nice job i like the weathering its perfect from what i can see

5

Stikpusher - thanks for the info. The instructions and box art were different, but decals for both included. Even the picture of the completed kit at Squadron shows the sand color and IFOR markings (http://www.squadron.com/NoStock.asp?item=TR07240). I was going to deviate from the instructions and use the red cross decals, but they were misaligned and looked bad.

I also went with the instructions for the interior gray color. So much for trusting the instructions.

Looking at it again, I see what you mean about the driver’s hatch. Unlike the commander’s hatch, there is no brace to lean the hatch against. I probably did the same thing with the cargo hatch, it should either be open all the way or closed.

I thought I saw a picture of one with the engine hatch open. But I was also toying with the idea of having the whole front open. When I decided that was too much for me to try, I just kept the top engine hatch open to show off the fact that I actually put the engine in. Makes sense that it wouldn’t swing like that, either bolted in place, or completely removed for access.

I already tossed the instructions, they may have been right about the inner headlights and I just goofed it.

I have to remember to run some ideas through the forum before jumping in, but I’ve never been a patient builder.

Thanks again, I appreciate the comments.

Paul

6

David,

You are very kind. I’ve only started using a few weathering techniques and I do like how they tone down the artificial look of a completed model. But to be fair, it relatively easy for an armored vehicle, just slap some mud around and you can cover up a lot of mistakes. I haven’t tried an aircraft yet, there isn’t much mud at 15,000 feet.

Paul

7

I’m looking forward to showing it off.

8

Hi Paul,

To expand on the engine bay cover, the underside of the panel carries the radiators and associated cooling fan, and as mentioned, should have part of the front panels and the front engine access door attached. It would never open up in the way you have depicted. The cargo hatch would also be flat open or fully closed as there’s no support for to be partially open.

On another note, the kit seems to be “inspired” by the old Tamiya 1/35 kit, having the cargo hatch release moulded incorrectly as per the Tamiya kit, and has the old “box” style fuel tank. As a minor detail point, IIRC, the external rear fuel tanks aren’t used on an M113A2.

9

Here are a couple of more tips…

The T130 track on an M113 has a pad in the center which is rubber. The rest of the track is steel. Paint the tracks a dull steel and only on the pads which will show paint the centers with a tire color paint mix.

The M2 is a bit dark…needs to be more steel in color.

For the pin mark in the hatch use somethin like Mr surfacer 500 and fill it in rather than try to sand it out.

Looking good…keep up the good work

Rounds Complete!!

10

Nice job.I thought it was 1/35 at first.

11

Yeah, looking at pictures online yesterday I saw some with the engine fully opened up and there was all that stuff on the underside of the cover. And the whole thing was open, not just the hatch. Oh well, lesson for another day.

Thanks,

Paul

12

Have to remember that about the tracks. Those can be hard to see in some pictures.

For the M2, a straight steel, or darkened somewhat. I would think a straight steel color would be too bright. Maybe steel and then a wash to darken it a bit.

I’ve never tried any Mr Surfacer, I’ll have to put that on my list of new supplies to get.

Thanks,

Paul

13

Thanks. I like the smaller scale to dabble in and try new things (not as scary thinking about the cost).

Paul

14

Others have already commented on the few small issues, so I’ll just say GOOD JOB!

Well painted and weathered, especially considering the scale.

Chris