I’ve been working on and off with liquid mask on a project. I am using acrylic paints. My question is, how do i go about removing the mask with water and not remove the paint?
It shouldn’t be a problem. Though most modelling acrylics are water soluble when wet, they are water resistant when cured. Also, your mask should just peel off without water.
Duke, I tried some Micro mask a year ago as an experiment. It work kinda OK on a canopy. Next I tried to use it to mask a line on a prop spinner and this time I left it on the part for a couple of days. I just about never got the stuff off! Stuff would not peel and I nearly wrecked the spinner getting it off. I would suggest some trial work before you commit to a valuable kit part.
HK,
What sort of paint were you using with the MicroMask? As I understand it, (havent even seen a bottle of that in years) MicroMask doesn’t play with water based paint - if you used acrylic it may have dissolved and combined with the paint. Shouldn’t be a problem with oil based paint though.
Humbrol Maskol seems to work ok over acrylics (but it reeks), but Gunze’s “Mr Masking Sol Neo” (now that’s a real mouthful) seems to attack acrylic bases (though in my test I did lay it on a bit thick).
One thing about the liquid masks…or at least the two brands I have…is that thicker is better. They peel off better if you have a thick layer. I have noticed with the two I have, a thin layer is tough to get off.
I’m not at home right now so I can’t tell you what the two brands are, but I will when I get back.
I use it mainly for painting the raised portions of ship namplates (the one on the stands). Shoot black…let it dray…slop a bunch of liquid mask on the plate and squee-gee it from the face of the letters…let it dry for 24 hours…shoot gold…let it dry for 24 hours…peel away the mask and its almost perfect. [:)]
Phil, I wish I could remember what kind of paint I had used. I’m typically an enamel guy but will use arcryls every once in a while. Maybe that was the problem.b
Hi there… this post still alive?
I’m a newbie and I’ll probably prefix most of my questions with that for months… I’ve used humbrol maskol to get a sraight, hard demarcation line on multi-colour scheme for a (gridiron)helmet on a large figure model. Problem was, I peeled the mask off after drying and it lifted some of the paint I’d sprayed in small flakes/chips. Needless to say, my “straight” line looked more like the teeth on an old hacksaw in some parts.
Anyone had any experience with this and have any advice? Because it was a reasonably large section to paint, I stipped it all back and returned to the area with yellow tamiya tape in large size, smoothed hard against the edge, traced with a pen, removed, cut, and then placed against the edge. It kinda did the job but i have to wonder if there is an easier way to this masking business…
I have to say, masking is proving to be the bane of my existence. Why don’t the beginners guides and how-to’s give more time to this subject?
[banghead]
As some may have seen I mischieviously asked my masking question both here and in the painting area. I’ve been ably assisted, thank you. I think my small masking jobs have been painful, but then I see people writing about dealing with aircraft canopies and I fear I’ve encountered nothing. I just can’t see myself managing really tricky delicate tasks like that… hats off to you all.
Problem was, I peeled the mask off after drying and it lifted some of the paint I’d sprayed in small flakes/chips. Needless to say, my “straight” line looked more like the teeth on an old hacksaw in some parts.<<
I don’t know for sure, of course, but if you were using actilics - I’ve heard that Humbrol maskol don’t like acrylics; it has a component which reacts with them.
I’m not an expert on liquid masks, though; I’ve rarely used any. However, lifting of paint is a problem with any masking material, be it Tamiya tape or anything else; the worst kind of lifting happens with white paints. 
There are some advises on masking online, but yes, clearly not enough. Sometimes I have to sand lifted “border” with 2000 grit sandpaper, and still it’s a tricky business.
It kinda did the job but i have to wonder if there is an easier way to this masking business… I have to say, masking is proving to be the bane of my existence.<<
Don’t worry, you are not the only one. Masking and removing the mask is the hardest part of my modelling, too. Since I’m working on sailing ships mostly, I have added problem of complicated surfaces…