Yeah, the wood and metal cement is just the thing if you like sagging/partial collapse of the fuselage wherever you use it![whstl]
When I built a 1/48 scale Russian Sukhoi Su-7 BKL Fitter, I used that kinda stuff to fix the ballast in place for the nose-gear, and now he has a “sinkhole” in his left cheek, that actually occured after I painted, decaled, etc., and put him on display.
I mean the tube did say “Metal”, the ballest is “metal”, obviously the right choice, eh?[*-)]
Are good hobby supplies that hard to get where you are?
If they are not, well let me know by PM, and I will do what I can.
Monogram Did a fine 1/48 T.B.M. Avenger with all that and the proper folding wings too . Don’t you ? I replaced the engine with a scratch built one that looked more real inside that cowl though . T.B.
You know , after over fifty years in the business ( Professional Model Builder ) I recently changed to TAMIYA’S liquid in the two types , Orange label and Green label . Love them both .Testors is still used though , Like it’s workability . Tanker - Builder
P.S. I have used the other so called Proffessional types and prefer Plastruct " Weldene " for general use , Especially if there might be ABS present . ( Plastruct products for years were ABS in nature . ) Now the other I use Is T.A.P. Plastics out of Dublin Ca. house labeled ACRYLIC Cement .These fill out my glues except the Super Glues .
Yes, my issue with Monogram is their half-baked “profile” engines that they still are very proud of.
Here is a very good example, typical of what I built as a kid when Revell first brought out the Skyraider:
and, guess what?
I currently have two more, unbuilt, that I can ressurect, one Navy and one USAF Sandy.
Whereas, with my '32 scale F4F and Revell F4U Corsair, I can remove the cowlings and see my completed engines any time, whereas the Monogram 1/32 scale F3F, has the typical “profile engine”. Under-whelming.
Not excited when they do not want to go slow, nor go fast, but half-fast. [whstl]
As for the paints, the only big deal about Tamiya paints, from my actual experience is that their container which, by the virtue of a plastic lid, which is better then Testors metal lid for the water-based acrylics because it doesn’t rust into the glass bottle after opening after using.
So, Tank, since you have nearly 100 years of experience, plus recommendations for various products, why can’t we see pictures of your stuff?
Tom, you’re a curious fellow. I have to ask, what grade are you in? Do many of your young peers build scale models too? I bet you guys have fun in study hall! Keep 'em coming dude.[:D]
Gary
edit to add: Oops, I’m sorry Tom. I see from your profile that you’re retired. Sorry dude. I’m retired too, and love every minute of it so far.
Both my Sparrowhawk and Stuka were hand-brushed with water-based acrylics.
This is because the typical airbrush is designed for typical enamels, lacquers, etc. I have lost perfectly good airbrushes to the fact the acrylics can form a permant hard-coating inside the airbrush, messing up the precision internals, that cannot be flushed out with any kind of cleaner, once it sets up.
Now the acrylics can be just as hard on bristle-brushes, but since you can get them by the package-full for a lot less then the cost of the typical airbrush/compressor combination at Hobby Lobby art department, who cares?
That’s why I also suggest the Testors Model Master Auto Lacquer Spay, again sold at Hobby Lobby, that comes in spray-cans, as well as their white primer. It is a two-step finish system where you also use their gloss clear-coat as well as the color. Again, cheaper, and less trouble then the care and feeding of an airbrush set-up.
By the way, Phil, what is the second color? The one in the museum is all-white, wings and all. A bit off-white from the clear lacquer coating aging, but still all the same color.
Now I’ve seen kits built with blue wings, but I believe that was from someone mistaking the blue-sky reflecting on the high-gloss white wings illustrated somewhere to be a different color.
Dull the model’s surface with a fine grade of wet/dry sandpaper like the kind I get in Testors sandpaper packs.
Then you go to a flat white, as a primer coat.
Then go to a clear-coat for a final gloss finish!
All the above can be done with the Testors products as sold at Hobby Lobby (I prefer Testors clear coats over messing with floor polish), whether you spray or hand-brush.
Now notice, whenever you want a gloss finish from any flat paint, then simply clear-coat the flat color.
That also generally takes care of all my gloss-paints issue for water-based acrylics including the light-grey fuselage of the Sparrow Hawk kit I built from a Williams Bros. kit, many years ago that also was molded in white.
By the way, for that kit, I literally used a basic Testors Acrylic paint set I got from Wal-Mart many years ago. The main fuselage is the flat Light Gull Grey, gloss-coated.
As for grade level, yeah I got some built armor stuff as well. I tried some again a while back, was just like when I was in elementary school.
For me, the reasons the armor stuff is not the challenge aircraft are:
Missing a headlight, damage the hole and chalk it up to battle-damage.
Cover damage to finish from glue-runs with fake mud, zimmerit, whatever.
Actual interior details not there, no issue, no windows to look into.[;)]
No need to consider the underside, as we do in aircraft-nobody sees the belly of a tank as we do usually do see the bird’s underside first at any air base-so it can be full of sinkholes, recesses for axles, etc., but who cares?.
No flaps, alerons, elevators, rudders, gear doors, bay doors, etc. Only a couple of hatches, maybe a turret to swivel if it is not an SP gun, howitzer, tank destroyer,etc., then you have nothing but the gun that moves up-and-down-[|-)]
So, as far as what grade, I got bored with typically two-dimensional armor stuff long before I graduated High School to next go on to obtain my degree in engineering.
Here you go . Did my first proffessional model , for what it’s worth at eighteen . I am now 73 and on my way to the next one . Have done models for the most well knowncompanies in this country although I didn’t know that they put them into museums . Found out years later .
As far as pictures go I have never learned how to do this . Many have tried to help , but after many failures I am giving that a rest . I came close but still didn’t get that coveted Havana ! If you choose , Send me an address and I will gladly mail you some of the many copies I have . T.B.
Tanker