folks does laquer or enamel clearcoat have an advantage over the other??
Thanks for your help! Jon
soggin -
Irrespective of my last thread [B)], I prefer lacquer. Both can give clear hard finishes, but the enamal, takes longer to dry, it actually skins first, and dries from the outside in, hence the long drying time, can be weeks depending on how thick the coats are. Lacquer tries to the touch in hours, and is safe for decaling or over coating in 24/48 hours.
You may also want to consider compatibilities betweem you clear coats and color coats. Lately, I been, out of necessity waiting weeks between coats, so it hasn’t been to much for a problem.
Don’t rule out acrylics or future either. Only problem with acrylics is you need some practice to get a glossy finish, if that’s waht you’re after.
Archer out.
I use acrylic paint for most everything (and seldom let them cure like I should), and the only thing I use for clear coating (flat or gloss) is acrylic. I don’t see a reason to ask for problems when there is an easy way to avoid it.
It’s Future all the way for me.
i do not care for the look or work you have to put into enamuls so i will not even say on that issue. But for Lacquer its a lot nicer finnish if your are going to polish it out and make it shine. Also if you are going to do Acrylic water base its better to use the lacquer or even ( and i say this only if you have a paint booth and resprater) Acrylic Urethane Lacquer Clear. This is one of the hardest when it drys. Now for Futer its good for some but in long run it also pics up dust and can not be polished out using a lot of the stuff because its water base and can be removed using Hot Water.
I don’t normally do autos, so Future is all the way for me too! (as in Future floor polish from the grovery store, about $3.50 for a quart or so)
However I have seen some autos done here, clear coated with Future that look absolutely fabulous!!! They just gave it sometimes as many as 6 coats of Future! The beauty of future is if, (or WHEN in my case) you get a fingerprint or something on it before dry, a shot of windex on a towel, rub it off and refuture is all that is needed! once cured it is impervious to almost everything… anything with ammonia can kill it though so be careful when cleaning around a futured model! [;)]
One thing it DOES do wonderful on, for all types of models is clear parts… here is a link to a how to on it. www.swannysmodels.com you can even tint the future and give a tint to the windows, as in car tinting, the green tinting on helicopter overhead glass etc… it even helps prevent crazing and hazing of windows from the fumes of the glue, and can save a scratched canopy or windshield…
I secound that Tho, I use it on the windows i kind of firgot on that. Also i use it just right after i glue a part together and the white haze that is left behined when its dry… Futur will take that away and you can keep on going in a couple of hrs of drying time. Not bad…
But i have seen some cars all done in it but i do not care for the look of them is all. There is a differents and you can tell between the two.