Hello, I’m trying to model a destroyed Panther and I’ve noticed, looking at photos, that the tracks often have this sagging look compared to active tanks, especially in the back, even though the wheels are all still present. Any idea what would cause that, so I can better reproduce it in my model?
1 Like
I’ll venture that the torsion bars lost their temper in the fire, thus causing the suspension to sag? Others will know the real answer.
1 Like
I need to do more research to confirm this, but if the track tension on Panther was assisted hydraulically then knocking out the tank would presumably depressurise hydraulic systems causing the tracks to sag…
Nick “The Chieftain” Moran couldn’t find the exact process in his walkaround from around the 9:20 mark (https://youtu.be/9xKYicir_i8?si=SdofgR42Jue9szWa)
You could replicate it in the model by having slightly more links than you need - But not too many as this will only be a subtle effect
1 Like
Thank you for the thorough answer, I was actually coming to the same conclusion that the best way of replicating it might be to use more links
1 Like
I’m just throwing this out. Maybe some of the sag is from the burned off rubber tires, making the diameter of the road wheel smaller. Happy modelling.
1 Like
Very late reply, but the look in the picture is a combination of both reasons already listed here.
The white ash on the tracks is the burnt rubber from the wheels. While it doesn’t seem like that would make a lot of difference, it actually amounts to lowering the vehicle a couple inches which reduces the total circumference of the suspension (possibly by one or more links).
The torsion bars being overheated and sagging would lower the vehicle substantially more. The difference between the bottom of the wheels and the non moving idler and sprocket would reduce the track circumference by multiple track links, depending on how much lower the vehicle now sits.
Adding more track links to replicate this would be an easy way to show, but would look a bit off if the vehicle doesn’t sit lower with the suspension compressed as well.
3 Likes
Great info @Frozin.
These are the kinds of details that make a diorama or display really come to life. I wonder if @Alexdoe ever built their Panther?
1 Like
The main reason for the sag on that tank was the fire. The road wheel rubber rim tires only add a couple of inches, but zero tension. Track tension is adjusted at the idler wheels on operational vehicles. The fire from the hits taken during the tank battle destroyed the ability of the torsion bars to support the weight of the tank and the tank compressed them to minimum clearance. That is a common look on knocked out, burned out, tanks with torsion bar suspensions.
2 Likes
Also to add to your realistic track sag, remember to file/sand down the rubber tire rim on the road wheels. That will definitely make the road wheel diameter smaller.
1 Like
Oh boy… on a Panther that’s a LOT of road wheels 
If you carve a toothpick or similar to be a tight friction fit in the center hole of the road wheels, you can chuck it up in a cordless drill and just touch the wheel edge lightly to your sandpaper at a reasonable RPM … a poor man’s mini-lathe. Great for road wheel seam lines too. 
1 Like
Well, he wants realistic track sag.
I like how you think. Where there’s a will there’s a way. I know most modelers have dremel tools. That should at least make things easier and faster. I recommend starting with the wheels that won’t naturally be seen, in case of a boo-boo.
1 Like
Thanks to everyone who’s replied so far! To answer @Toimi_Tom’s question, no I haven’t gotten around to this project yet. Too many other started ones and also I don’t think I have enough hobby know-how to do something like this yet… maybe after another couple of finished regular tanks. But I’m really grateful for all the information I’ve gathered since starting this thread, I’ll definitely treasure it for the day I finally tackle this project.
3 Likes