Here’s a good question, given that probably the majority of modelers paint their models. Even those that are molded in colors other then white. Why do companies mold their kits in colors? And in particular colors, such as red that are hard to either paint over or to prime?
That red styrene might have been cheaper to purchase than another color, maybe it flows through the molds better, may be ‘just because’.
That’s a question I’ve asked myself- 'have these guys even considered having to paint over this?!?"
Funny you should mention this. I just received the Eduard MIG-21 MF BFC Edition and you should see the sprue colors…
sometimes, they just pick a color and use it for their entire line, either something generic or something cheap and easy to use, sometimes they mold sprues in colors similar enough to the final color that it looks decent if finished without paint. Sometimes, they’re send out kits in random colors just because that’s what they had available or something slipped up in the factory. Sometimes kits end up different colors because they were early releases or prototypes. The first few moldings of the AMT Enterprise-D kit from the 80s, for example, were molded in red and green.
It’s a question I raised last night at the “Crash and Bash.” Also if I’m not mistaken, don’t the destruction, err sorry the instructions that come with most kits, even those that are molded in color include the instruction to PAINT the model?!?
It is a good question, isn’t it? Likewise the “advice” that some will give us cyclists. IF they ever actually tried to use their advice they’d find out real quickly how bad it generally is.
Can I ask Whisky Tango Foxtrot where they “smoking?” I mean couldn’t they have just picked ONE color and stuck with it?
GR,
That does make a degree of sense. Maybe they need to send out survey’s to their customers to find out what we want in the way of a “base” color for kit’s to be molded in. It is still a bit of a head scratcher as to why they do what they do.
the bfc mig is orange for obvious reasons, otherwise I have no explanation for multi-colored plastic. Makes sense to have it in just a neutral color.
Armor kits tend to come in one of three basic colors (shades of those 3). They come in green, gray or tan. Once in a great while a kit comes in white; often from eastern European companies or if the vehicle is sporting a white UN or winter paint scheme.
Like the white color, the gray/green/tan shade often depends on what the actual vehicle color is for the majority of the kit’s paint schemes. Some companies only mold in shades of gray. But Tamiya will put out kits in various shade of gray/green/tan. They even released a Landrover in pink.
The Old Matchbox kits came in 2 or 3 sprue shades, sometimes appropriate, such as red for Red Arrows, etc, sometimes some very-odd shades, whereas the Revel re-pops are Revel Green.
The Old Arfix Antarctic Auster was bright yellow, but most of their planes were pale blue.
Ah… the Matchbox colored plastic. Brings back memories of musty old boxes and tube glue.
Some companies release kits in red so its easier to paint the kit red.
Or yellow so you can paint it yellow.
Red and yellow are hard to get good coverage on a kit without using 4 or 5 coats of paint
So if the plastic is already red you only need 1 or 2 coats. No primer…
But if you want it a different color you will probably use 4 or 5 coats anyway just to try and hide the red.
I preffer kits in white. Its just easier that way.
I firmly believe that the majority of mfgs feel that most of their kits are bought by or for young modelers who do not paint the kits, so molding in appropriate colors may be a marketing advantage. I base this on instructions that show assembly steps that would preclude good painting techniques if followed, whereas a different order of assembly would make painting much easier and better. Often the only painting guides (showing colors) show only exterior colors- no info on interior colors, or ones that show interior colors in steps where part of that interior has already been closed off.
Rob,
So they made a “Mary Kay” Landrover, huh? Interesting.
Tim,
I agree that that “logic” does make a degree of sense. However as I said most of us do end up painting our kits. Whether or not it’s the same color as recommended by the manufacturer.
Like you, I too prefer them to be molded in white. Likewise, that was the general consensus of the club members. One was working on a Colby this past Tuesday that was cast in red. And he had mold seams that he had to sand off. Which means (if I’m not mistaken) even if he wanted to paint it red (I don’t think that he does) after sanding he’s going to have to prime it before he can paint it.
Don,
It wouldn’t surprise me if that was closer to the truth. But they also need to remember that not ALL kits are bought by or for kids to build.
Here’s an interesting question. How many of the kits for sale are actually purchased by/for children and how many are purchased by/for adults?
A skill level 1 snap together kit I can see the “logic” of casting it in color. For skill level 2 and up it makes more sense to cast them white and let the builder decide what color to paint it.
A single coat of good primer, such as Tamiya fine surface primer, will wipe out the color of the plastic, and you will have a nice neutral gray or white primed surface to paint on. I’ve never had any trouble with this.
Ditto, chuck,
I generally lay down a coat or 2 of primer myself, so molded color is not much of an issue. But, wow, why the hell do they mold some in such DARK colors? A color that would NEVER have been on that vehicle, like the Hawker Typhoon I have in waiting. It’s a 1/32 scale Revell kit from 1982 and it’s molded in a green that’s so dark, it’s almost black.
Kinda like this:
____GREEN
Anybody remember when Aurora had every kid convinced the the Japanese “Zero” was actually yellow?
And the rest of their fleet in their respective colors:
And while I’m at it:
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