I just received Alliance Model Works’ German Puma Wheels. I cannot complain about the detail. However, every wheel has an attachment point that is MUCH THICKER than would be the case for injection moulded plastic. There’s no way I can trim it with a hobby knife. I think I have to use a micro saw to remove it while protecting my lungs.
Does every resin upgrade part has such a thick attachment point? If so, this will be my last purchase of resin parts.
Yes, most resin sets have larger pour plugs. With a razor saw and a flush cutting parts cutter, they are not that big of an issue.
Can I use a guitar string cutter to cut the attachment? It cleanly cuts thick steel strings, so I assume it can easily cut resin parts.
Be very careful cutting the pour plugs. Resin behaves very different from styrene when using any kind of cutter device because of the stresses involved. Too much stress/force at the wrong angle can cause cracking or other issues depending on the size and fragility of the part in question relative to the pour block. For best results, start the cut with a razor saw and then use the cutters to complete if you need to. Either that or use a cutting wheel on a Dremel or similar type tool. [;)]
For sure some resin upgrades are great,but they are all not magic bullets,some involve a lot of work to get them to fit right.
Hi Chirsk-k,
Do yourself a favor and get a simple protection mask, both the dust and the fumes created while cutting resin with a Dremel are hazardous.
Holding your breath while working on the parts is going to kill any joy you still have with your upgrade…
Very Best Regards
Johan
The extra effort involved in resin parts can be worth it. But as mentioned, be careful. They can be very fragile. For thicker parts I use my mini drill, for finer ones I use cutters.
I do have a very good spray mask. I was not aware of fumes generated while cutting resin, though. Do you guys cut resin outside?
There are no fumes created when cutting resin. There is dust created, which is not hazardous, but can be an irritant if it gets into your lungs, eyes, etc.
Cured resin is no more toxic than hardened plastic. The actual hazards of working with cured resin are often over exaggerated. Liquid resin and hardener is another story though.
“Can I use a guitar string cutter to cut the attachment? It cleanly cuts thick steel strings,”
I’m not an experienced resin worker, but looking at the two kits I have that include resin, they look exactly as described. I was also disappointed. Big square blocks on the bottom.
I AM however, a very experienced guitar player (about 28 years of playing, hair metal in the 80s in Hollywood laugh if you must , and a classical guitar performance major in college after that) and every instrument I’ve seen to cut strings on a guitar will probablty ruin your resin part. I wouldn’t chance it.
Correction . . . make that 31 years playing.
I guess my math skills aren’t so good after three shots of rum and a beer. Go figure. [^o)]
The pour blocks are a necessity with most resin parts. It just takes some time to get used to. Just like the first time you use PE or an actual airbrush or got away from a Snap-Tite kit and adhesive film decals.
If you decide to delve into the hobby, you’ll find yourself crossing many barriers such as new medium, new tools, new techniques. The key to punching through the first experience is to know what to expect and have decent tools to get the job done.
For me, resin is just another component of the whole hobby. Good luck.
Just wait til you get a lousy resin kit. Where the parts are basically topographic features in a lake of resin.
But I feel your paint. Styrene is forced into molds under extremely high pressure while resin pouring is usually a product of gravity. I cut within about an 1/8" or so with a razor saw and then just resign (pun intended) my self to a bit of slow careful sanding.
But isn’t the detail just great!?
I said to myself, “What the heck…I don’t want to waste my time sawing off pour plugs of 9 road wheels.” I cut them with a string cutter with no ill effect in less than a minute. I’ll have fun sanding the cut marks.
Good luck with the string cutter Chrisk-k, it may cause cracking, esp. on smaller parts, so be cautious.
Where possible, I prefer to use an ‘Olfa P-cutter’ type blade to score a groove, as this produces a curl of resin, not dust,
Then I wet-sand with err wet&dry & rinse, produces wet slurry not dust.
Sometimes the resin still
@ HeavyArty,
Thanks for straitening me out, after some googeling I found no proof to my previous statement.
I am cutting the stuff with a Dremel and will insist that it creates fumes in the process but I feel much less worried after realizing that my fear was probably exaggerated.
Will leave the protection mask on though - Better safe then sorry 
@ Chrisk-k,
happy sanding 
[:)]Awesome. So much for my advice.
I wouldn’t have used the string cutter if the parts were small. The Puma road wheels are thick and big for a 1/35 model.
Ok, cool. Now I don’t feel so bad. [;)]
Also remember, google is your friend. Many guys have given great advice on the use of resin. Having said that, remember, not all resin companies are created equal. Some are superb, others are pretty good, some are to be avoided at all costs.
Always check via google or model websites before deciding to purchase resin items. One of the “best” resin manufacturers quality wise has one of the worst reputations in terms of customer service, timeliness of delivery and actually ever getting the items you paid for.