Justa Note

Hey!

Have you finished your first Paper(Card) model yet? If so, you are getting an idea of what you need for these fascinating models. First and foremost are the tools. First, a good grade of white Glue. My Choice is Aleen’s TACKY glue in the bronze(Copper) bottle. It takes very little and dries quickly enough to preserve any work done on Curves and Something like Gun barrels or Masts. I apply it to the folded edges where it goes with a Sculpting tool shaped like a knife and made from Bamboo(Easy to clean with a damp cloth), Now here’s the thing. Paper models can be forgiving, BUT, they need to know what to forgive.

Embossing a line where a fold is will be forgiven if it’s a wee bit off just by readadjusting your embossing tool over the line. You want those embossed lines to be spot on. So you need Glare Free lighting fo that. When cutting out the parts use sharp blades.I use the little stepped X-Acto blade in a number one handle. I don’t use Excel Blades from Hobby Lobby for my paper work. They are too thin and the tips break off early, plus they wander somewhat when putting any pressure on them. Remember, you are cutting Business card stock, NOT, regular typing paper.

When folding tabs and folds I use a six inch"Mostly" stainless rule “It cleans up easy.” Now to emboss those lines.There are some tools you would think would work, Don’t bother! Many of the metal ones will cut through the material leaving floppy tabs or edges. I use the Tip of a medium fine Tweezer taped together, I draw this backward over the center of the printed line. If you keep your angle very low when you apply pressure during the draw process you’ll get a nice embossed line, Clean, and ready to fold. So as you draw backward from the tip and press lightly the line will be perfect.

Now for folding tabs I use a postage stamp tweezers. Because the edge of the jaw is wide enough to do the job. For longer tabs and edging I use a bent tip tweezer with a 3/4 in jaw length. I modified mine by filing the outside edge perfactly flat. That way the card has a firm straight edge to fold to. After doing both types of folds Hold and run the flat of your fingernail over the paper.This will make a square edge that will line up perfect! Do not attempt to cut anything BUT very large pieces with scissors. Why? Well,scissors wander. So if you have a long straight edge, Cut with the X-Acto and the appropriate stainless rule only, won’t regret it! If necessary get a Thin 18’ rule from the stationary store( Office Depot,Etc.)

That’s a good article, Gary.

Bill

Thanks, Bill;

I find as I write one I think of all the things to do then how I do it and I seem to get long winded. There’s so much we automatically do in each step, wether on Plastic, Card, or Wood. The biggest thing I find right now is instruction sheets for many are missing steps or are poorly illustrated in the step you’re doing!

Sometimes you have to figure it out yourself.

Eugene!

That’s for sure! Now most modelers that have a kit or two under the belt and are familiar with the subject can figure most missing steps out. This only becomes a problem in paper. The missing part may be telling you how to achieve a certain shape. Maybe you have never done a shape like this before! Especially in paper!

Just a tip here too ! Depending on the scale, use wood dowels or bamboo skewers inside the paper when you are rolling for masts and such.This will allow you to make it small and glueable. Also, in some cases, Roll the paper around the wood and glue it all together. This gives stability when rigging, be it cranes, masts or spars

And deep well 8,9 and 10mm sockets to make smoke stacks!

Ah, Eugene!

You are so right!

Yes works well!