I don’t know much about painting so I would like to clear somethings up before I start this one I really don’t want to mess it up. First off I need to prime it right? so will the little spray can primer work? For the actual paint do I use the little testors paint bottles, and dump them into the airbrush bottle? For the camo paint scheme do I cut out camo shape stencils and spray with the different colors?
There are potentially hundreds of answers for each of your questions. LOL!
Primer is a personal preference, I use Plastikote T235 sandable primer myself. The spray can primer you listed is just fine, but remember being enamel, it takes longer to dry.
You can definately use the paint in the little bottles, properly thinned, in an airbrush.
Camo can be freehanded, I use a Badger Renegade Velocity for this, or masked. Masking is again preference. Tape, liquid mask, silly putty, paper, and bluetack are all viable options. Think it through as you are building. What can be left off before paint and what can be safely masked over. Hope this helps a bit.
What you listed are enamels, they require thinning with mineral spirits, or the like.
Testors makes it’s own brand of thinner/brush cleaner which will work well.
It’s hard to say how much the paint should be thinned. The general rule of thumb is thin to a “milk like” consistency. Every airbrush is different and air pressure will effect results as well. I usually thin the paint a bit more than that and spray at about 20 PSI for a car body when using gloss enamel or laquer. I use my old Badger 350 single action as it has a wide pattern. Use multiple light passes to build up color then one or more “wet” coats to finish. A wet coat is layed on a bit heavier, and a bit closer to the body.
Acrylic paint calls for a thinner paint and less air pressure in my experience, especially when freehanding camo.