Just finished installing my first Jordi Rubio gun tube on my Panther and I must say it’s not even close to the quality of an Eduard tube. It looks good now, but it was a real wrestling match to get it to fit and stay straight, even though it was supposedly for the kit I’m building. Guess I’ll be buying Eduard tubes from now on. Live and learn I reckon. [:D]
I actually like Jordi Rubio’s barrels. I agree that you need to work them in a bit, but they are nicely made.
JR has a wider range of barrels than any other aluminum barrel manufacturer. They were one of the first to produce barrels, so obviously, some of their earlier barrels are rather “old school” compared to current barrels by Fine Molds, Armo, Eduard, CMK, etc.
So it depends on which barrel you need as to which barrel is best.
I’ve shied away from the AM barrels, how do they work? Does it just mate to the plastic turret like the kit piece or is there a lot more involved? Do you have to add counterweight to balance it? Just curious.
I’ve had nothing but good results from the JR barrels I’ve used thus far. That’s not to say I couldn’t run into problems with a future build, but I can’t worry about that.
AM barrels can come in several forms. The easiest of these are true one for one replacements for the kit barrel. The kit barrel is either replaced completely or the barrel from the kit “assembly” is cut off and the AM barrel is attached, usually with CA.
However, sometimes the kit barrel is so inaccurate that more modification is required before you can use the AM barrel. This can involve things like lengthening or shortening the gun mount, increasing or decreasing the diameter of the mounting holes, or even more severe modifications.
Many JR barrels are designed for use on several different vehicles or guns. In some cases, these barrels must be modified - usually by shortening the breech end of the barrel, before it can be properly installed on a particular assembly. This can be intimidating because it involves cutting, grinding, and smoothing a metal part. Some specialized tools and techniques are required.
I’ve never heard of counterweight being necessary with any AM barrels. Even builds of German 88 guns, where the barrel forms a large percentage of the assembly, haven’t mentioned the need for counterweights.
All in all, AM barrels can substancially enhance your model by providing a smooth, accurate assembly that can look very realistic. I would recommend starting with something small, like an M3 Stuart barrel, armored car barrel, or a similar smaller caliber barrel. See what the barrel does for your model and then you may decide that AM barrels are the way you want to go on your larger projects.
Robert
I love the barrels, used a JR on my Marder. I think I had to do a minor bit of work to get it to fit but the result was great. I do have a problem keeping it elevated over time though.
Thanks for the insight. I may make that a part of the next tank I get into.
I’d have to agree that the JR barrels are a little “rougher” than Eduard’s or Fine Mold’s, but they’re still fine products.
And if you’re doing Russian armor, the rougher, the better!
I’m more of a US builder, though if something catches my eye, I add it to the pile. Is there a AM barrel for the Super Sherman? That is one kit I’ve been meaning to build, and I think I’m going to go all out, tracks, barrel, PE…just to say I’ve done it once.
You ever run across the Revell PanzerHaubitze 2000? It comes with an aluminum barrel in the box that is about the size of one of those little souvenir baseball bats. The thing is huge. I have not built it yet, but I think that barrel will require some type of counter weight or at least the mantlet would have to be glued in place it you wish to show the gun deployed.
But with that exception, I agree that the vast majority of barrels do not need to be counter weighted.
Haven’t ran across a barrel for either the M50 or M51 Isreali Shermans. Tracks and PE are available though.
I used a JR barrel on my PzII (shown in my sig). As far as I can tell, it is TOTALLY inaccurate. The JR barrel is a stepped turning whereas the real deal had a “funky” taper to it. I think the kit barrel is actually pretty accurate. I just didn’t know it at the time! I much prefer the Eduard barrels to the JR barrels I’ve bought. If the barrel has a muzzel break, the ones from JR are white metal castings and the ones I’ve seen have been pretty rough requiring a lot of clean up. The Eduard ones I have have all had turned aluminum muzzel breaks integral with the barrel. Much nicer.
On my Panther G the tube is heavy enough to pull the back of the turret up just a hair, but I think a figure will be enough to counter weigh it. I’m very pleased with the end result, but as I said, I thought there was a little too much rasslin’ for the purchase price.
I bought JR’s SiG33 barrel. It came with white metal bits and pieces for the breech etc, which were okay, but the barrel itself was really good. A fair bit of work was involved, but it looks excellent. It even had rifling!
I also bought Eduard’s Panther G barrel, and that is an exceptional bit of metal. Even non-modellers appreciate the workmanship when I show them.