Italeri/Zvezda T-26 Light Tank in Finnish use - WIP

Picked this kit up in a swap. Was a relatively quick assembly, not counting the Eduard photoetch of course. Some flash, some really thick sprue gates, and some poor fit that couldn’t be fixed by clamping (particularly around the front fenders - there’s no way to make them fit like on the the real deal, so don’t look too close).

There are some part and sprue number typos in the instructions, but careful assembly and dry fitting can avoid issues here; one glaring mistake is that they direct you to install the rear suspension spring assembly backwards. Easy to fix if you catch it before the cement sets. Notice the awful joins, sprue gates, and seam lines on the suspension parts. Luckily, all period photos show these totally caked with sand and mud…[Y]

I can’t decide if I love or hate working with PE. Still refining my glue procedures.

I’m setting this one up as a Finnish-captured tank, used against the Soviets during the Continuation War phase of WWII. The Finns had a small fleet of Vickers 6T tanks before the war, and captured many dozens of Soviet T-26s of all flavors during the Winter War of 1939 and the early stages of the Continuation War (concurrent with Barbarossa), and so their resulting T-26s were a mishmash of parts of all of these. It’s hard to pick out a specific tank that appears in more than one or two period photos, so this one will be a “generic” Finnish T-26 set up as one might have been in the mid-war period, as best as I can tell.

The majority of T-26s in Finnish service were either the “B” type, with the cylidrical turret and 45mm Soviet main gun, or the “E” type which was a Vickers tank fitted with the same 45mm gun and a Soviet co-axial MG (taken from captured Soviet equipment).

The Finns didn’t use the Soviet handrail-type radio antenna, opting for a whip-style antenna on the few radio-equipped tanks. There are lots of photos of T-26s in Finnish use (and others, for that matter) with the antenna removed but the mounts still in place, so I decided to go that route. The soft kit styrene made this modification easier than I expected.

Other modifications included deleting the hull-front horn (though it is present on some Finnish T-26s); cutting off the (entirely non-detailed) periscope from the left side of the turret, and scratchbuilding the proper one (as seen on this example at the Parola Tank Musuem in Finland) for the right side, where they appear to be on all Finnish T-26s. It’s not perfect, but much better than the smooth nub the kit came with.

I also replaced the resin coax MG with with some brass rod for a big upgrade in detail for little effort.

I also cut off and drilled out the large rivets (?) on the sides and rear of the turret, which I believe are actually small arms “anti-anti-tank-troop” ports with a sliding door on the inside – at least on Finnish tanks.

The rest of the build was just bending and gluing on PE parts (and looking for them on the floor [:'(]). Looking at the photos just now I noticed I forgot to install the lifting rings on the turret top.

Tool and spare part external stowage seems to be literally all over the place in Finnish period photos. I’ve opted to only add the shovel, after modifying it to match the finnish type with a T-handle. I have some aftermarket towing cables on the way but might not use them if they don’t look right. One thing that almost all Finnish T-26s show are extra bogey wheels mounted on the rear hull, but I’m not going to order a whole extra kit just for those, so…[^o)]

Once I add those last PE parts, it’ll be paint time. Think I’ll just do the basic dark green on this one (how would I ever mask for camo over all that PE?). I’ll be using the kit’s very tight rubberband tracks, since about half the period photos show no track sag at all. I have a few 1/35 Finnish tank crew and if I can get them looking good I’ll pose them with the turret hatches open.

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Oh cool, love the modifications!!!

And good luck with the tracks!!! I built the Hobbyboss kit of this tank years ago. Separate track links with two pins in each link. I got so annoyed I just cemented them together and then smeared ‘mud’ all over them to hide my mistakes.

Thanks Gamera. This has been a fun “quick build” but I think I went a little TOO quick in some spots. After I shot the base color, I was quickly forced to treat it like a “guide coat” as it betrayed several glaring seams and flash that I’d overlooked during construction. So I fixed those and re-sprayed. I can still see a few spots I’d like to touch up again, but they’re really only visible in the high-res photos, not in hand, so I might leave 'em. We shall see.

While I was waiting for the base coat to dry I painted the tracks. Since they’re mostly hidden, and get covered by mud/dust, I didn’t obsess over them, but just gave them a thick coat of Tamiya dark iron mixed about 3:1 with Tamiya red-brown. Gives a nice look with a tiny bit of shine. The lacquer-thinner-thinned paints seem to stick fine to the rubber, even though no kind of glue does.

Since I was respraying the field grey anyway, I also tested out the Vallejo chipping medium on the muffler. Gave it a base coat of “rust,” and then a nice thick coat of the chip stuff. Let it dry about 30 minutes and then shot it with the grey at the same time I resprayed the tank. A paintbrush and some water then was used to remove some of the green, to match some period photos. It looks okay; should have done some more color modulation to the rust base coat, but I think I can improve the look with pastels at the end of the build.

After the base coat and a light highlight coat was on (with a little desert yellow added to warm the shade up just a bit), I glued on the painted and chipped muffler. Then I struggled to stretch the too-tight tracks over the wheels, finally succeeded, and repaired the PE parts I broke during that process. [*-)]

Then I used a lighter version of the hull’s field grey to add some light chipping, both brush and sponge, to likely areas and hit the center of the bigger chips with dark iron. Something about that last part really goes a long way to making the thing look like painted metal. Hard to not over-do it of course. Used the same technique to wear the paint off the shovel blade before gluing it into its mounts. And here’s where we stand.

Next is a final close look for details to touch up, then a gloss coat for decals and a pin wash. Feels like it’s “almost done” but each step takes a lot of time from here on out.

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Was looking through some of my reference pics and noticed the tow cable tangled up on the rear hull in this one. Decided to try to replicate that for some added realism. (Also note how dented that muffler is… and this one has the Soviet crosscut saw still in place… hmm.)

Raided a T-35/76 box for a tow cable and found some picture wire.

And bent and twisted it up around the rear shackles and hangers.

This of course was very delicate around those PE parts, but it worked by just popping the bottom of each shackle loose so the tow loops would fit inside. I can see why copper wire is preferred for this job though… that steel wire was very stiff and did not like being bent. Hard to get it all lined up without too much pressure on any one PE or styrene part.

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This little machine has been sitting on the Shelf of Doom for over 5 years. No real reason, just lost the mojo. But I ordered some QuickTracks workable links for another armor kit, and to save on shipping from Poland, I included a set for this tank in the order, and figured I should get it finished up.

I pulled the T-26 out of the case last night, removed the rubberband tracks, and gave the whole thing a solid matte coat, which really brought it to life.


I also noticed that the turret interior is unpainted plastic, which’ll need to be corrected so I can include a figure or two. The one crewman I happened to have built isn’t posed right for this hatch configuration, but he helps show the small size of these interwar tank designs.

Reading through this thread, the unblemished muffler still bugs me. Luckily my scratchbuilding skill (or at least confidence) has improved over the last few years, so I chopped the ends off the plastic part, rolled up a new muffler from GSW pewter foil, and glued it back into place. I’ll dent it up after some reference study.

The QuickTracks links are fun to work with – they just snap together – and the detail and resolution are amazing. It took about an hour to do one full track, though I was watching TV at the same time. The kit’s sprocket teeth are too wide to fit the links, so I’ll have to do a little trimming there, but it should really boost the finished look of the tank, not to mention take paint better than the rubber.

I really want to brush up on my oil paint weathering before starting on my Hurricane project, and I think this will be the perfect subject for that.

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Project: Zombie rides again! Best of luck with closing this one out, knowing what you know now…

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Very nice,extra details look good

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Thanks guys! It’s actually really interesting to revisit a kit from earlier in my “adult modeling journey.” Lots of things I’d do differently today, but it’s a good base for some fun weathering.

And I’m really impressed with these QuickTracks. They pop together nicely, once you get the technique down. They might not have the heft of metal tracks, but for ~$25/set, these are now my go-to for armor kits.

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Impressive resurrection.

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Quicktracks are really an excellent product,reasonably priced and easy to learn.

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It took a few serious bench sessions to revive the “oil paint rendering/weathering” mindset, but I’m making progress now. One of the reasons I picked this build back up was to brush up (no pun intended) my oil paint skills before employing them on the HobbyBoss Hurricane, which waits patiently in my WIP cabinet.

It takes a while to get the feel of it, for sure. It really feels like a departure from traditional “modeling” in that it isn’t, and can’t really be treated like, a step-by-step process, or a formula. There’s a rough outline – follow your paintwork and weathering “road map”, light-to-dark as a rule, follow your reference images – but you have to trust the process and just dive in. The wet vs. dryness level of the paint and thinner on the pallet, model, and brush, are the constantly-rebalancing legs of a tripod. The best part is that you have hours or even days to remove or re-do parts you don’t like.

Anyhow: I’ve got the upper and side surfaces mostly where I want them, and am just beginning the dust coat beneath the fenders.

As you can see I also found a crew figure that fits, with some minor modifications, and I had to break off the drive sprockets in order to modify them to fit the Quick Tracks. I’m considering a few stowage additions. There are so many excellent reference images of these tanks in Finnish service in the SA-KUVA archive!

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The next chapter in “avoiding working on my Hurricane project for some reason:”

So many photos of T-26 tanks, in various countries’ service, show at least one spare bogie wheel strapped to the rear engine cover area.

This kit’s lack of a spare wheel for that purpose has annoyed me every time I’ve looked through my reference photos. Somehow last week I stumbled upon the existence of oyumaru, a kind of thermoplastic molding putty. It comes in these little bars, which you just drop in a mug of hot water for a minute or so, and then it becomes pliable like any other molding clay. It hardens into a stiff rubber-like consistency as it cools over a few minutes.

I nipped off one of the tank’s bogie wheels, and used the putty to make a few molds of it. I used some masking tape to keep the oyumaru from “keying” in the gap between the wheels, and filled the molds with Milliput. After curing overnight, my new wheels popped free without issue.

Some carving and a bit of styrene for an axle, and I had a brand-new spare bogie wheel. The details aren’t perfect – trapped tiny air bubbles were a problem – but PLENTY good. In fact I’ll use the new replacement in the running gear, where it’ll be muddy and dirty, and use the kit part as the more-visible spare.


A bit of paint and it’s good to go!

Pay no attention to those awful ejector-pin marks. The T-26 running gear gathers a LOT of mud.

Now to figure out how the heck these were strapped down…

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Well, despite hundreds of T-26 photos out there on the web and Finnish examples on SA-KUVA and in books I own, I wasn’t able to find any specific or consistent strapping solutions for that extra bogie wheel. In many instances, no strap is visible at all. In others there are various other brackets and horns welded or bolted in various places to which a strap could be fastened. In the end, I used a strap over the center axle and connected to two visible bolts/rivets on the plate directly below the wheel. This matches the kit instructions from a HobbyBoss T-26 boxing, and was the least obtrusive. In effect it also is now mostly invisible…

This also gave me a metal strap to which a rope could be tied to hold down a tarp, sort of like in this photo:

This is my first try at a tarp, and I’m about 50% happy. Enough to leave it. It’s some tissue paper I had laying around with white glue and water, painted tan and weathered with oils.

As you can see, I also got the muffler re-attached. I painted it in Tamiya Dark Iron, and then a layer of the tank’s paint color, Tamiya Field Grey, chipped back using AK’s Heavy Chipping fluid. I’ll rust it up some with oils, since oil weathering continues.