Hello everyone. This weekend I hope to begin building the kit - US Army Air Force 154th Recon Squadron Tunisia 1943 version (pictured on the box top). I will use this forum post to document my progress. I welcome suggestions and feedback.
Love the Mustang! Can’t wait to see how it turns out!
There is a major error with this kit. Chack out the kit’s inboard leading edges, and then compare them with th real thing, or, perhaps more easily but just as accurately, the Accurate Miniatures 1/48 P-51A:
http://www.modelingmadness.com/reviews/allies/us/jacksonp51ai.jpg
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/photos/campbell_p51a_04.jpg
What Italeri have done, in order to save money, is to use the same wing sprue for their P-51 as they did for their P-51D. Unfortunately, the leading edge wing roots on P-51D attach to the fuselage significantly further forward than they do on the P-51 and P-51A.
A good fix for this problem is to use the wings from the RoG 1/72 P-51B.
You’ll need a bit of filler to blend things in, but at least your model will be accurate.
Cheers,
Chris.
Hey Dobby, I built the Academy version of this aircraft awhile back and I look forward to seeing how the Italeri version compares. Post lots of pics as you go. [tup]
Hi all, Thanks for commenting on my forum post. It’s nice to receive feedback.
richter111, razordws: I’ll update this post with my progress and be sure to include pictures. I love takin’ pics.
chris: Thank you for your tips on how to make this a more authentic build. This is only my 2nd model so my focus is on technique versus authenticity. However, there might be a larger scale Mustang in my future where I would strive for an authentic build. I kinda bought this kit by accident - meant to get a 1/48 scale.
Good to hear from you Mustang fans!
Dobby, I have built that kit and apart from the wing issues (as described by Chris Hall), it is a very nice kit, especially for the price.
Since it was released, it has been surpassed by the Academy kit for accuracy, detail and sharpness, but you’ll still be able to make a really nice model from it.
The wing correction is quite easy, provided you have access to decent references. I added some scratchbuilt internal detail; I started using a PE set (from CMK, I think??) but I didn’t like the look of it and was much happier with my styrene scrap interior.
Panel lines are a bit deep, I thought and some details are a little coarse but with careful construction and painting, you’ll be happy with the result.
Good luck with the build Dobby. Looking forward to your WIP pics.
Regards, Rick
Well I’ve got cockpit interior painted. To be honest, I’m not sure I’m “into” 1/72 scale aircraft - the parts are so small and sometimes frustrating to paint. I’m not adding any detail to the model, but I do appreciate all the detailing ideas everyone has presented. My main goals are 1) a better looking canopy than on my last model, 2) better highlighting of the panel lines, 3) improved weathering, 4) a smaller diameter antenna wire, and 5) possibly free-handing the line between the olive drab top and grey underside of the aircraft. Again, I appreciate everyone’s feedback. I may have some photos soon.
Dobby - don’t try to free-hand the line between the OD and the NG. In 1/72, you’ll never do it.
Far better to start by spraying the underside NG. Then make a thin sausage of blu-tac, and apply it to the dividing line, with the upper edge slightly raised, and mask off the uunderside. If you then spray the OD at right angles to the dividing line, you’ll get a soft-edged divide, as per this Airfix 1/72 B-26C that I built recently:
Compare the camo divide with the hard-edged invasion stripes.
Cheers,
Chris.
That’s an excellent idea Chris. On the P-51 box art the line looks more straight than wavy. I wonder if I could use your technique, but first pressing the sausage against a straight-edge then gently applying it at the dividing line.
The “green” and the invasion stripes on your model look great. Nice variation on the green near panel lines. The black-n-white stripes look clean with even widths. Well done! I see myself attempting one of these paints schemes in near future. I will ask for tips!
Again, thanks Chris.
Dobby - your idea for the dividing line should work well. Just remember to keep the sausage thin! and remember that the dividing line on the wings and tailplane is hard-edged.
Thanks for the compliments re the Marauder. The kit instructions give the width of the stripes. I was therefore able to calculate the area to be covered by the stripes, and, checking the starting points from the instrutions, was able to start by spraying the whole area, with about 5mm either side, white.
I then carefully cut lengths of Tamiya tape to the precise required width, and applied them immediately adjacent to each other. Getting the strips of tape exactly the right width (to 1/10 of a millimetre) was the trickiest part of the process.
Then I removed the tape covering the areas to be sprayed black and, er, sprayed them black. When this had dried and cured, I masked them off, with a bit of overlapto pevent bleed-under, and sprayed the camo. When the main painting was done, I removed all the masking, and proceded to decalling, varnish, and weathering.
I always think that removing the masking is the best stage of making a model!
Cheers,
Chris.
I’m back to work on this model after a long break. Everything is painted. The olive drab turned out darker than I thought it would. Touch-ups are necessary around the yellow stripes - I decided to paint the stripes instead of using the decals.
Note - I painted the landing gear bay chromate green. Probably not accurate, but then again, this is only my second model and my focus is on technique. Looking at the photo, I just noticed that I did not paint the rear bay chromate green too - oh well!
Next is weathering and final assembly.
Photos aren’t great - need a better camera!
Nicefit…
Your technique looks fine to me …Im just getting back into the kitset world now, after a long break…its amazing what you forget, but there is seemingly endless support on this site…and you re-learn very fast…go for it
Regards
Thank you Fly57. Welcome back to the kitset world. You’re right, there is endless support on this site. I’ve learning sooo much from the other forum members.
I finished this model today. A couple of photos are posted at the bottom. I had hoped for better results but am still pleased with the outcome. I did find the 1/72 scale rather frustrating though because of the small parts - some were difficult to paint or glue in place. My enthusiasm waned early. I was ready to finish the kit and move on to something else.
As stated in an early post, my main goals for this project were:
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A better looking canopy than on my last model. I feel the canopy looks better but is far from what I had hoped. I spent a lot of time trying to mask the tiny canopy and used a mixture of tapes (blue painter’s tape, Scotch Magic Tape, narrow modeler’s tape) to see which was easiest to apply and produced the best result. I even tried ParaFilm but gave up on it because of the small canopy size. After the model was finished and I removed the tape, I was disappointed with how the canopy turned out, so I ended up freehanding it. I’m not sure what masking approach I will take on my next kit.
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Better highlighting of the panel lines. I didn’t do any highlighting. Waning enthusiasm…
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Improved weathering. I didn’t do anything different here - used my standard 2 parts paint, 5 parts water and 3 parts dish soap. Waning enthusiasm…
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A smaller diameter antenna wire. I decided to omit the wire. Waning enthusiasm…
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Possibly free-handing the line between the olive drab top and gray underside of the aircraft. I was advised not to try this on a 1/72 scale aircraft so I didn’t. I first tried to mask using Elmer’s Tack but was not pleased with the result so I re-masked using masking tape. I’ll try the tack mask again in the future.
A few comments on this kit.
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- I liked the fit and level of detail of this kit (when compared my previous Revell-Monogram kit), with a couple of exceptions listed below. I especially liked that the propeller cone was separate from the blades and that the engine exhaust ports were separate from the fuselage. This made both items easier to paint.
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- The instructions called for drilling four holes and four squares into the wing undersides. How do you drill a square?
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- There is an air intake under the wings and a part that glues onto the front of the intake. I found that the part did not fit properly and I had to omit it.
Paints:
- Tamiya Olive Drab (XF-62) for aircraft topside. Came out too dark. I should have lightened it.
- Tamiya Sky Gray (XF-19) for aircraft underside.
- Tamiya Yellow (XF-3) mixed with Tamiya Red (XF-7) for the orangish-yellow wing stripes.
- Tamiya Brown (XF-10) mixed with Tamiya Chrome Silver (XF-11) for the engine exhaust ports.
Dobby,
Don’t be too har on yourself. That is a fine looking build for your 2nd attempt. I haven’t attempted 1/72 since I was a kid. I have a hard enough time with the 1/48 size parts.
For the canopy I usually use Tamiya tape and a new #11 blade or the Eduard masks.
For the panel lines I tried preshading for the first time and found it to be easy and effective. Check out my post in this section on my HE-100. I also usually gloss coat, do a sludge wash on the panel lines and then a dull coat.
I can’t give much advise on the weathering as I do very little to my aircraft, personal perference.
Definitely lighten the color with about 25% to 30% flat white.
As I said I think it’s a nice looking build. Keep at it and thanks for the pictures.
Dobby A very nice build. I have been lerking and watching your build, I wouldnt even try this in 1/72 scale, I have enough trouble with 1/48. Well done.
I too think the Tamiya OD is way too dark and have tried mixing white with it and still didnt like it. So now I just spray the OD let it dry and mix a couple of drops of white in water until it looks like skim milk then just mist that over the OD. Takes 2 or 3 coats to get it where I want it, makes it lighter and you can leave some places darker than others for a slightly faded look also. Anyway thats what works for me so thought I would toss it in here for ya to ponder a bit.
The Italeri Mustang is a tough one for painting the framing, the frame lines are poorly defined and if I remember right they are not all there. My favorite method is to mask off narrow strips on decal paper and paint them, interior color first and then exterior color. The decal strips are pretty easy to apply to the canopy, but be sure to cut the strips close to the paint line before you wet them.
Thank you all for your encouragement and tips. After an attitude adjustment I’m ready for my next kit - a 1/48 scale P-40. With this kit I will focus once again on the canopy but also pre-shading of the panel lines.
jeaton01 - That is an interesting masking method you describe. I would imagine you need to start with clear decal paper so that the interior color shows. Where do purchase such decal paper? Also, how do you deal with curved parts of the canopy frame?
vetteman42 - Thank you for the compliment and the painting tip. I will most definitely try out your suggestion!
model geek - Yes, I was a bit hard on myself - we all have those days! On my next kit, I want to try the pre-shading technique. I will check out your post. Eduard masks isn’t something I have considered, but will.
Again, thank you all for your posts. Isn’t this forum great?
MicroScale, Bare Metal Foil, and Micro Mark all sell clear decal film. I usually buy mine from Tango Papa, http://www.tangopapadecals.com/. Service can be erratic because it is a part time operation but the quality is very good. Pappilon is another source.
On curved area you can make a paper template to get the shape right, and use the template to lay out the masking on the decal paper. If you don’t get it quite right the decal is flexible enough to fudge it. If the curved areas are limited I just paint them. The eye sees goofs in straight lines long before it can in a curve.