Thanks for the info guys! It will be my first resin pit, and well, to be honest, I’m not sure of my skills on this one, but what the hey, the RM kits are cheap enough [:D] you guys got a link for the exterior detail set, the shull24 I think it said? I will probably have to rescribe the dang thing to… [:D] Thanks guys! I sure hope the little lady likes this one, its for her, marking from the Battle Creek, MI ANG, near her hometown!
Are you aware of the fact that the True Details A-10 cockpit set IS the Black Box A-10 cockpit set?
Dave
OK, here’s my A-10. I rescribed it (first and possibly last for me) and put in the Black Box cockpit and some etch and white metal set from Flightpath. Most weapons came from various hasagawa sets and my spares box. The RBF flags are the discontinued Reheat ones. I couldn’t add enough nose weight for it to sit correctly as I had weakened the gear adding pe parts and feared a break. It is wired down to the base. The paints are Model master enamels all airbrushed free hand. Hope it inspires you for yours.
Nice one, Drew! I really like how well the demarcation between the colors turned out. I know I’d have to use raised masks to achieve results like that. [tup]
My apologies,
I did not. I retract my previous statement about Black Box. It was wrong and ignorant of me to post this. For the record, the BB sets are extremely high detail, especially the 1/48 sets. In light of the correction offered by Dave Roof, and since I have used True Details sets before, and have been very happy with them, I would say that this should be an excellent set at a great price. I have had troubles with a couple of Black Box sets, but there are many modelers that didn’t, and the results are breath-taking, with care and skill.
DrewH
What do your masterpieces look like, if you consider that A-10 a mediocre work.
Looks good.
again, my sincere apologies, Dave.
~Reluctant Wanderer
Anthony,
There is absolutely no need for you to apologize to me or anyone else. I was simply pointing out that the two cockpit sets were one in the same in case you were not aware.
Per your email. Yes, I am Dave Roof. No, I do not own or operate Black Box/Combat Series/Avionix.
I have done masters work for the owner (Jef), but that is the extent of it.
Dave
Drew, thanks for posting the pic. That looks great. After seeing the Black Box cockpit I was very tempted to throw one in too. But since is my first a/c, I think I’d be better off just doing a plain old OOB build. The scribing has me a little worried as I am not a very patient person, but we’ll see how it goes. I just wish the kit would come on and get here (there’s that patience thing again) as I’m getting a little antsy.
cwalker3;
Remember to relax and take your time, if it starts to get to much of a pain then back away for awhile then hit it again later, I’ve been rescribing all my Revell-O-Gram kits for a while after you do one then it’ll come easier on the latest kits you do and then you’ll fine your own STYLE and make them faster, What I do is first use the Exacto Knife to score the lines then go over then with the Rescribe Tool then sand then go over the new lines with the Rescribe Tool to clean up any imperfections and dust, then wash with soap & water the rinse the air dry for a few days the assemble, after I get all the Fun stuff done like Cockpit, Wheel Wells,etc…
72cuda, thanks for the advice. I assume you scribe down the middle of the raised line rather than on each side? And how do you keep from sanding off the rivet and bolt detail on the sides of the lines? Would maybe placing tape over the bolts and screws help?
to anybody interest,
I started the A-10 group build here is the link:
/forums/738618/ShowPost.aspx#738618
i liked the RM kit this is mine turned out ok for me
cwalker3;
What I do is follow the lines with the exacto knife, with the rivets I use either a sewing machine needle cut to fit into a pin vise, or use a #60 drill bit, but only spin it about 1 to 1.5 turns you just only want to score the surface that will make the empression of the fastener being there
Thanks cuda. I just got the kit on Saturday and when I saw the rivet detail so close to the panel lines I about choked! Your method for replacing the rivets sounds easy enough though. Now if I can just pull it off! Thanks much.
Looking at a A-10 recently in a museum, I was amazed at how big those rivets are on the tail! I think I’ll leave them raised on mine!
Charlie
cwalker3;
On the A-10 If you don’t want to do the aft section of the airplane with the rivets then don’t worry about it, just leave the panel lines alone too, but just rescribe the nose & wings only, also on the Decellarons instead of having a defined lines like the kits, in real they are pretty much layers of carbon fiber and not panel lines, here is what I’m going to do on my builds, copy the largest section then work back to the hinge areas for the layers then blend them by lightly sanding them, I’ll be using .020 styrene for the new Decellarons and they’ll be closed too, the A-10’s only have them opened during maintenance or when the pilot is doing his “Self Check” prior to taxi/take off
Thanks cuda. I think I understand what you’re saying about the decelerons, but do you think you could provide some pics of your work on them when you do it?
I’ll get them when I get Started on my A-10 Builds, I haven’t started anything for awhile since I’ve been living in an apartment for the last 3 years, but I’ve been buying kits to make my collection ready for building, I really haven’t had a nice collection since I donated 369 of them to the Lowery AFB Heritage Museum (now Wings Over The Rockies Museum) back in 1988 and the curator stole most of them for his own collection at home (Now he’s making Big rocks into small rocks and them into grains of sand at Ft Levenworth KS),
to make them just make the largest part from the Decellaron then the 2nd part from the first panel line, and so on with .020 styrene sheet then lightly sand them to blend them out into the airfoil and then glue them into the closed position, because the A-10’s Decellarons don’t have panel lines they are made of laminated sheets of carbon fiber (More like fiber glass) and at certian parts they are stepped up to make the hinge points (Also to make them more or less a part of an airfoil) on the real planes they are STEPPED on both sides but for the kit just one side will do
Thanks cuda.
Here is a little news I found over on ARC. Hobby Boss an off shoot of Trumpeter I believe just released a 1/48 A-10A and 1/48 A-10 N/AW. It has a full GAU-8A, open engine panels and engines, open refueling point, seperate flaps, recessed panel lines and rivets, full weapons load and markings for them and the list goes on. It is a scaled down version of their 1/32 kits. I know that Lucky Model has them in stock, here is the web address www.luckymodel.com. Here is the listing for the two, www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=HB-80323 and www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=HB-80324. Hope this helps.
Dave Fassett
I’ve got a question about the Monogram 1/48 kit.
The weapons included in the kit…how many of those are still actively used by the A-10?
What is a typical weapons load these days?
Charlie