Oh yeah, I forgot , unfortunately they don’t carry Tamiya paint. Only Modelmaster, which isn’t bad at all. They have all the armor colors and wingie thing colors too. The paints are mostly all acrylic too.
Ian: I went through Shelburne(sp?), VT a couple of weeks ago…nice area. Definately good to be near the lake today!!!
**SMJmodeler :** So are you set for glue then? What do you need? I’m close to a hobby store.
Dude, all I ever use is CA, although I am way out classed as far as skills go but I have never had a problem with assembly. Its my finishing skills which are lacking. I think that as modelers we’re pretty good at improvising in cases such as yours
I’m always lurking, but I like to chime in from time to time just so you guys know I’m there.
Cheers! Doug
Panther F:…I’m good, I think I’ll hit the Lowes for a big batch of MEK like Roy suggested and see how that works…
Well, about 4 years ago I started using Walmart laquer thinner from out of a small bottle. Good to clean brushes too. 
Works fine for me, although there are still some things I use Testors or MM on.
Disastermaster
Sir D: I use Wal Mart mineral spirits and Rubbing alcohol for thinners, Dollar tree amonia & windex mix for cleaning the airbrush and paint trays. Now I guess I’ll use Lowes plastic glue…hey, with the price of gas[|(] these days we gotta’ save where we can!
Don’t know about that MEK stuff, SMJ. To be honest, ALL of this chemical stuff we use scares the dickens rght outta me–it;s all super toxic. Just be careful what ya use!
CA glue is ok, I guess, but god forbid ya glue on a fragile piece and don’t align it right. I’ve never used the debonder stuff, so I don’t like to “go permanent” if I can help it!
Listen, I do not know much about modelling, but know about chemicals, having been a biomedical researcher for 20+ years. MEK is NASTY stuff, i would never used it indoors or near my kids/family. Here are some links from TRUE toxicology web sites, not from either the “nothing causes any damage as long as I make money out of it” camp, nor from the “everything you smell or taste will cause you to develop cancer and root for the NY yankees” camp.
http://www.pactox.com/library/article.php?articleID=24
" Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) is a colorless liquid solvent with an acetone-like odor. It is volatile and potentially explosive. Irritation of the nose and throat has been reported to begin at 100 ppm; eye irritation has been reported to start at 200 ppm (2). Dermatitis of the face, probably due to exposure vapors from the MEK, has been reported at concentrations ranging from 300 ppm to 600 ppm (3). Narcosis can occur at even higher concentrations, although the precise air concentration at which narcosis begins is not known. "
http://cameochemicals.noaa.gov/chemical/1105
“HIGHLY FLAMMABLE: Will be easily ignited by heat, sparks or flames. Vapors may form explosive mixtures with air. Vapors may travel to source of ignition and flash back. Most vapors are heavier than air. They will spread along ground and collect in low or confined areas (sewers, basements, tanks). Vapor explosion hazard indoors, outdoors or in sewers”
YOU CANNOT JUST “VENTILATE” MEK WITH A FAN!!! Its heavier than air… if you have a baby or toddler, he/she WILL be inhaling the MEK, but YOU wont even smell it!
Copy of MSDS sheet here:
http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/m4628.htm
"Personal Respirators (NIOSH Approved):
If the exposure limit is exceeded and engineering controls are not feasible, a full facepiece respirator with organic vapor cartridge may be worn up to 50 times the exposure limit or the maximum use concentration specified by the appropriate regulatory agency or respirator supplier, whichever is lowest. For emergencies or instances where the exposure levels are not known, use a full-facepiece positive-pressure, air-supplied respirator. WARNING: Air purifying respirators do not protect workers in oxygen-deficient atmospheres.
Skin Protection:
Wear impervious protective clothing, including boots, gloves, lab coat, apron or coveralls, as appropriate, to prevent skin contact. Butyl rubber is a suitable material for personal protective equipment.
Eye Protection:
Use chemical safety goggles and/or a full face shield where splashing is possible. Maintain eye wash fountain and quick-drench facilities in work area.
–
DO NOT believe the politially/economically-motivated propaganda seen in web sites like this:
http://www.heartland.org/Article.cfm?artId=18449
Its BS… go to the original sources if so inclined, but please read what the SCIENTISTS say about (well anything! 
before making a choice…
Sorry to have come accross so harshly academic but semester is over and I have to get my teaching itch off somehow 
Cheers, James
Good stuff to know JMart. The offer still stands on the glue.
Thank you, honestly 
JMart: WOW!!!..and dang-it!!! I bought some MEK yesterday, but haven’t opened it yet. The $$$ savings is HUGE ($20 a gallon, equivalent model glue cost, almost $250)…obviously cost savings at a HUGE price…I will research it more. Thanks for watching my (and my kids) back.
EDIT I just read the link about MEK…kinda what I expected. My question is…how does MEK COMPARE to the current glue I’m using, Plasticstruct “Plastic Weld”? It was in the paint section of Lowes, not a bio-hazard chemical plant. Both seem pretty nasty…by the way…I am VERY diligent about putting the cap on after EVERY use, no matter how minor. I’m not trying to convince myself here (OK, maybe a little) that MEK is safe, I just would like some more info.
All glues can be “toxic” its a matter of quantity/exposure and extra toxicity of certain materials. And herein lies the “MEK” problem; its quite concentrated 'as is" (vis-a-vis the quantities used in standard hobby glues), you cannot ventilate due to being heavier than air, and it has 'extra" toxicity as compared to, say, CA glues or Tenax/weld type of glues.
Here is a comparision… I leave my Tenax small bottle open, it just evaporates/sublimates into the air, rapidly dilutes itself out and the fan I have running across the workbench moves the fumes away from my face. If I touch some while wearing latex (“hospital”) gloves, I prevent the glue from touching my skin. If I smell Tenax, I get a bad odor up my nose.
I leave MEK open (or spill some), the stuff evaporates/sublimates, does NOT dilute out and simply drops to the ground, where your baby/toddler/pet will inhale it. If it touches my latex-ed hands, it will go thru it and onto and THRU my skin. If I smell enough of it, I get actually irritation and maybe more, depends on the dose.
Bottom line is, you CAN use it carefully, just know the extra safety steps you have to perform to keep you and your family safe. I would recommend decanting a small amount onto another jar for use at your workbench, use “kitchen” rubber gloves when handling the large gallon container. Can decompose to CO2 (carbon dioxide), so dont store near your CO (monoxide) detector, just in case. Dont store in the same place you have ammonia (fertilizers).
Finally, contrary to some “urban modellers myths”, MEK is NOT a carcinogen. It has been shown to be a teratogen in lab animals, but nothing in humans. So touching some MEK wont turn you into a mutant a-la Wolverine.
“Storage: Store in a segregated and approved area. Keep container in a cool, well-ventilated area. Keep container tightly closed and sealed until ready for use. Avoid all possible sources of ignition (spark or flame).”
if you ever want to throw it away… you can’t in NY (and few other states) its regulated substance/waste. You can clean up and biodegrade small amounts in large dilutions of water, left to stand for 10-15 days. So, if you ever spill some MEK, contain the spill with a 'solid" (like paper towels), soak it up (while wearing rubber, not latex, gloves and your respirator), dump into a bucket or tight container. Add several volumes of water, let stand for couple weeks (outside or in your garage). The MEK will degrade by then, dump the water and throw the papertowels in regular garbage.
phew ok, thats enough for now… last pedantic comment from me to everyone reading this thread is, learn to read the MSDS of the substances you use! Feel free to post or email or PM me any questions you may have. Sorry again for such long winded response…cheers
Yeah, who wants to use something like that. This is just model building, not a NASA project. I have pets and wouldn’t want to use something harmful like that.
JMart, what a valuable and important post–thank you for posting it!
Hey
For you guys who use Tenax, what do you apply it with? I seem to have a problem that it either dries or evaporates before I can transfer it from the bottle to my model, so I can’t seem to get it to form a bond where I want it to.
I know it shouldn’t be rocket science, but this stuff seems to be kickin’ my butt…[:I]
My LHS does mail order and will ship you out a bottle of whatever you want, lickety split.
With the exception of tracks and clear parts yes I have used superglue for entire builds.
As far as applying tenax either use a paint brush, get a touch n flow applicator, use a hypodermic needle, or take a sewing needle, and cut the end of the eye off so it leaves a nice long for, then put it in an old paintbrush handle, and dip it, tht open eye will hold the glue and allow it to flow out on contact.
JMart: Thanks for the info…I may transfer a small amou nt to my empty bottle and give it a try. I will heed your storage advice too.