I hope this is the right place to post this. I tried to search the site but for some reason, the search button is not activated.
I’m back to the hobby after 35 years and I find myself airbrushing a lot. I’ve decide that I need to get a spray booth because the dual filter mask and cardboard box solution is really not a solution. The odor and particles fill the room and even make it to other parts of the house. I’m sure I’m slowly killing myself. I don’t have a garage so spraying in there is not an option and I live in Toronto, Canada so I can only keep a window open for so long in the winter, and besides, an open window doesn’t do much.
If any of you use spray booths, I’d appreciate any advice on brands, types, and how they’re set up etc.
I bought a Pace spray booth (http://www.pacepaintbooths.com/pace/) and I like it. I used a flexible dryer hose through a foam board to vent to the outside (I simply insert it into a window when in use). It uses replaceable furnace filters for the particles, but doesn’t do much for fumes. It does pull the fumes out of the room well, but if you live in an area that has regulations about exhausting fumes (or close-by neighbors who might complain), you might need something different.
There are currently two threads in the “Painting and Airbrushing” forum on spray booths. Nothing wrong with asking here, but I’d recommend checking that forum also, as it is a frequent subject and always brings a lot of discussion.
I use a spray booth for rattle cans, but not for airbrushing. I airbrush at my regular modeling bench after moving stuff back from the edge. I always hand-hold what I am airbrushing, so I can turn the model instead of turning/tilting the airbrush at funny angles. With an airbrush I get very little overspray so don’t really need the booth then. I crank down the flow so that overspray is not a problem. Cheaper too, since I use less paint.
I have made all my booths. Started out with several using a cardboard box with a piece of the cover cut out so I could lower a filter/blower combo into the top. Latest version uses particle board for box walls and sides, filter at rear, and a light on top shining down through a window.
If you are using an airbrush check out the commercially available products.
If you are using a rattle can you will need to build your own as the commercially available products cannot handle the volume of paint put out by a spray can.
Frankly, I have been using the old card board box and respirator method for the last 3+ years since I came back to modeling. I just can’t bring myself to part with the $500.00 or so it would cost me to buy a spray booth big enough for my needs when there are so many kits I need buying. I have a window right above my work bench and when I paint I open the window and set a fan to blow the fumes, excess paint, etc., into the great out doors. So far, as long as I use a respirator, I’ve had no problems. I think the need for a spray booth, while it is probably a good idea, really depends on the amount of fresh air ventilation you have in your work area.
I have Pace airbrush booth and I just LOVE it. Beats spraying in the garage especially when it is too hot or old. My workbench is in large basement and it is visible so I can not stand the idea of having a cardboard on my workbench.
Bought it for $335 during free shipping promotion. I checked Pace website and they are offering free shipping again saving you about $45-$65. One of best investment ever next to airbrush set purchase… it will last me for next 20-25 until I am too old for modeling.
I bought the larger size spray booth out of the Micromark catalog several years ago (I forget the brand), and it’s worked well for me. And I am sooooo glad I sprang for the larger size— it’s made a huge difference in the size of models I can airbrush, and it even vents pretty well when using rattle cans. Even so, I use a respirator. My spray booth has duel fans and exhaust which I ran directly through the exterior wall to the outside— just like the dryer exhaust. Since I live in a cold climate I have caps on the external openings, which keeps cold air from getting back in through the duct work pretty well. When I am painting, I warm up the room with a small radiant panel heater and keep the fans on. This maintains “room temperature” for painting even when it’s cold out, and good airflow. The only hassle is, I have to run outside before and after painting sessions to remove or replace the caps.
I’ve switched to acrylics and use this spray booth:
I don’t vent outside and I spray in the living area of my house. I do have the exhaust adapter so if I want to vent outside, I can. The filter is really thick, like 1.5 inches.
^ How do you guys spray from a can ect when using a both like the on above or the ones pictured on this thread. I have learned to hold the parts by hand and turn them and rotate them ect. both when using an airbrush or can.
I feel that I have more control when I am able to move both of my hands (airbursh and part) than if the part if on a turn table inside a booth?
I have a little turntable, manually turned. I have several blocks, some with holes to hold various attaching methods, such as clothespins, dowels and various sticks. If there is no other way to mount assembly, I will lay it on turntable, spray half- when dry turn it over and do other half. Got the turntable at Wal-Mart.
BTW, I only use my booth for spray cans. I airbrush at my regular bench- with airbrush I get so little overspray I don’t worry about it, and I use enamel, but so little of it that smell goes away pretty quickly.
I have the same one as Jesse and like the fact I can fold it all down to pack it away. It takes me 5 minutes at most to put it up and throw the exhaust pipe out the window. I’ll be honest it could be bigger to allow a bit more room to work but on larger kits I find as long as the fan is running and the spray is in the direction of the booth it all gets dragged in and taken away. Mine came with a turntable but I use the Tamiya one at times too
