Man, I love filling gaps with little pieces of strip styrene! It’s much easier than filling with putty! I realize that this doesn’t always work, and still needs some touch up with putty, but for some gaps, strip styrene justs works REALLY well. Sorry, for the excitement, but this whole MiG-29 project is a learning experience for me what with the A/M and all…
Congratulations on learning a new skill Tanky. Pretty soon you’ll be scratch building those MIG’s [:)].
Regards, Rick
Try it with wing to fuselage gaps. For that matter any gap where there will be stress is best filled with plastic, either sheet stock (shims) or stretched sprue, so that you have a plastic to plastic “weld”. Putty will crack if it is stressed.
LOL! Good one, Tankmaster…
After more than 30 years building plastic models, I’m always learning…and so will you.
It’s the simple things that set off the light bulb that get you excited…things like “why didn’t I think of that!!”
I too recently started doing that. After the plastic is welded into it it can be sanded as though there never was a seam.
I used the technique on this Academy P-40 B/C
I even used it to repair a huge alignment issue with a Phantom.
Both are 1/72 scale. The only downside is having to wait until the glue sets completely.
gunther
I have used the plastic shim technique for years. Another trick that I have passed on to many people is to use masking tape applied as close to a seam as possible. Fill the seam with putty, dampen a Q tip with paint thinner and work the putty into the seam. Remove the tape and you have a very clean line of putty. If sanding is needed, put more masking tape around the seam before sanding.
Now, where did I put my duct tape?