Eclipse hp-cs
I’ve been using this airbrush for year without troubles. Anyways my question is
Is the .35mm needle bigger then the .5mm correct?.
I have the .35mm and been fine with it for years but just got the .5mm to see if it’s possible to get even smaller lines.
I switched all my paints to acrylics and been using the 35mm.
A .5 is larger than .35. You generally switch these out as a set ( needle, nozzle and cap).
Other way round, the .5mm is for larger areas, etc., & 0.35mm set allows finer lines, see this thread:
Requesting tips on picking a 2nd airbrush
Edit Link here: http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/184043.aspx
ok thanks both of you…I thought the .35 was bigger thats good to know.So the .05 would have a wide spray pattern? and what would you recommend for wide patterns ?
It’s good to note that it isn’t just about pattern width by tip size selection but also, if not more so, it’s about pattern saturation. Most any tip besides a fan cap and tip can get you down to an 1/8" wide line for instance. But a larger tip will put down more paint within that width. A finer tip will offer more control over film thickness per pass. Just the opposite going wide, now you need the extra saturation because to go wide you also back away from the surface. To get a smaller tip to spread to say 2-1/2" wide pattern you will be back there putting on many mist coats, where a bigger tip might do it in two or three coats.
Additionally a finer nozzle produces smaller droplet size for mist coating, they produce a very soft mist compared with larger tips. And by the way, to me at least, a .35 needle/nozzle is middle ground. A truly fine nozzle to me is more like .25 or even .2 or .22. A pretty standard nozzle is .4- .45 -.55. A .7-1.0 is large and can deliver a lot of paint per pass but some .5 tips will shoot just as wide ( usually around 3"). But again this is just possible by changing your shooting distance.
Fan caps give a pretty straight up 3 to 3-1/2 inch pattern less effected by distance within reason. They are really designed to be shot in what I call a honey zone, which will generally be 4-5 inches away from the subject being sprayed. And they are designed in matched sets of acertan nozzle size, needle and cap. For Paasche for instance, that size is .66.
So just a thought, maybe you should explain to us what you are trying to do ? As you can see there are variables but some of these can cross over one another depending on your actual goal.
I was just trying to find a better way to spray a bigger line for primeing and metal finish. My fine line airbrush now would take twice as long to spray using primer or metal finishes.
I’m trying to get into a habit of priming more. And right now it take a while airbrushing. I guess I’ll up the air pressure and back away from the subject more,just used to line line is all.
I use Stynylrez primer for most everything these days and the label says a .5 or larger needle required. But I’ve shot limited coverage needs with a .25. That said I mostly use my Paasche H with .7 needle when I want to prime larger areas. Inexpensive brush, easy to clean and with stynylrez one thing you want to do is be sure you get it all out right away or you might as well have sprayed cement through the brush and put it away uncleaned. I’ve even considered the outright cheap ( $20) Paasche Starter brush just for priming, basically an H made with cheaper materials. Then I would have a truly dedicated primer brush. Just thinking out loud here.