another awesome build pix, im glad to see more of your work again
Looks great Pix-- I get more and more impressed at each new outing.
Unbelievable work, Pixilater! The realism is outstanding. Thanks for sharing.
Mark
A super Spit…
Wow, another fine looking build. Just incredible as always. If you ever get a chance, how about sharing some pics of your finished collection. That’d be a treat. [^]
Great looking build Pix.
That Hurri looks ready to roll.
Karl
Pix as always excellent work. Thanks for sharing
Jason
Very impressive. What colour did you use for the tyres?
excellent work as always. can we have a closeup of the nose art ? looks interesting
Wooooah!!! Wow Pix, that is one SWEET looking build!!! [;)] It looks as if it’s just itching to get in the sky and lay waste to some jerrys!!
Bravo!!! ALWAYS look forward to seeing what rolls out of your hangar!! Thanks!! [:)]
Take care my friend,
Frank
Thank you Lee, ModelNerd, ghettochild, Jeeves, Mark, Dave, tigerman, Karl, Jason, Dancin Seamus, reggie, and Frank !
ModelNerd - when you build this kit, I’d suggest gluing the nose halves to the fuselage halves, rather than joining the two assemblies. The fit is much better that way. Also be careful with the lower wing/fuselage bottom seam. It runs through the fabric, and cleanup is difficult.
tigerman - I’ll get out the duster and see what I can do. Proper lighting may be a problem, though.
Dancin Seamus - the tyres are Color of Eagles acrylic Tire Black. I feel that it’s one of the most convincing tire colors out there.
reggie - the “nose art” is actually Gleed’s personal emblem, “Figaro the Cat.” He wore it on the emergency escape panel, which I have removed from the fuselage and placed on the wing. Here’s a pic of it (please don’t mind the dust !)
Frank - I have an Ar 234B nearing completion, and a C-47 in the works. I’m trying to decide what comes after those.
Thanks again everyone !
Simply gorgeous, Pix!
Beautifully done, as usual. What technique do you use to do the camoflage pattern?
Thanks Brian and Aurora !
Aurora - the topside camo was sprayed freehand. The demarcation between upper and lower was done with drafting tape.
Thanks again !
When I grow up I want to be like you.
Great job.
Gumiflex
Thank you Gumiflex !
I may age, but hopefully I’ll never grow up ! Sounds too serious to me.
Thanks again !
Hiya Bill,
I think everybody speaks for how I feel. You did her justice…[;)][;)][bow]. Could you please refresh my memory, what method did you use to do your weathering?? Were any washes used??
Thank you very much for sharing your build. Come to think of it, I have a few Hurris on the to do list. Maybe I should get one rolling after my Spit build…
Flaps up, Mike
Fantastic work, as usual. I dream of ever becoming that good. [alien]
Thanks Butz and yardbird !
Butz - For the wash, I use enamels. Each of the colors are mixed with flat black until they reach a shade that matches the shadows I see on the model under the light. What I’m trying to replicate is a shadow, rather than dirt, rust, or some other color unrelated to the base color. The aircraft has been painted with enamels, and glosscoated with Future, decalled, and Futured again. The flat wash shows up on the glossy surface, and is more controllable than a gloss one.
Doing the washes that way is a lot more involved, but I really like the results. I mix them on the thick side so they don’t travel into an adjacent area by mistake. I apply it with a #000 brush, touching the panel line every 1/4-1/2 inch. The thicker the wash, the less time there is to remove it. I usually clean it after I’ve done the last line in that color. Cleanup is done with a #000 brush, dipped in thinner and patted on a paper towel to remove most of it. You want it damp, not wet. I run it along either side of the line, and around rivets. When it stops removing the wash and just moves it around, I touch the brush to the paper towel. This removes the paint, and I can usually resume cleaning up the more delicate areas with this drier brush. Once all those lines have been cleaned up, I move on to the next color, applying the wash and removing it.
Since there is a narrow window in which the wash can be removed, it teaches you to be careful applying the wash. The more careful you are applying it, the less cleanup is involved. You can’t slop it on like acrylic washes, but it’s more controlled and, to my eye, more effective.
Of course, if you want to try this, do so on something you can afford to lose. You have to know how much thinner is right for the wash, and how much is needed to remove it. I use Model Master Airbrush thinner for this. I’ve never tried it with a store-brand thinner, so there may be a difference.
Rather long-winded explanation, I know, but using thinner on a model painted with enamels can be dangerous if you’re not careful or inexperienced with it. Hope this answers yopur question !
Thanks again !
Excellent build, Mr. Pix. That’s 80 hours well spent. Thanks for sharing[:)]