I know this is not a typical WIP pic, but here’s what I intend to use to finish up the Marder, give or take a few things. I haven’t decided on the track finish yet.
Clemons, instead of the Vallejo acrylic gloss varnish, could I use Pledge Future and you stated that you used Alcad Gloss, but which one?
I guess I’m a little confused on this seal coat, should it be a gloss acrylic or an enamel? The latter seems to make more sense.
Here are my layers? Base primer, Tamiya acrylics 3 tone camo, the"clear coat" then Tamiya acrylic white.
Jibber: You’re making a serious dent in that thing now! I love those little clear pieces for the vision slits though I always have trouble masking them.
If I may jump in here normally you’d use an enamel clear coat if the top weathering coat is acrylic. In fact I think you’d have to if you’re using thinner to remove the whitewash as Clemons does. However I used the same Vallejo clear with the hairspray on mine. It seems to have stood up fine.
I think just to be safe, I’m thinking an enamel gloss clear coat. I think its risky throwing on a thinner that could get right into the camo. I had trouble once before and now I’m thinking thats what I did, used this acrylic and it was a mess. i haven’t done one since until this build. Thanks
Cliff pretty much explained it all very nicely (thanks for that, mate!).
The clear coat has to be enamel or lacquer based - ACRYLIC PAINT WON’T WORK - to keep the normal camo safe. I used Alclad’s “Klear Kote Gloss´” (ALC 310). I’m not sure if Future is going to work though, so you might want to test it on a pice of plastic sheet first.
Tamiya paint might not be the perfect choice for the white either. Tamiya’s solvents are kinda “hot” so they can eat through some clear coats if they are not tough enough. I used Vallejo paints because they use the least agressive solvent. Vallejo’s white doesn’t have such a nice spray pattern as other acrylics too which helps a lot in recreating the uneven and worn finish seen on most whitewashed vehicles. i only used their normal airbrush thinner though (the premium stuff is more agressive).
So to be completely on the save side i’d suggest the following layers:
Primer → Tamiya 3-tone camo → Lacquer/Enamel Clear → Vallejo Air White → Vallejo airbrush thinner
Got it thanks. I just returned back from my LHS and picked up a Model Master Clear Gloss Lacquer. I also have the Vallejo Air white paint so I think I’m okay for now. Can’t wait to try it but I have a few things first.
Thanks to both you guys.
Jibber. Well that answers my question about the black. I was looking at your photobucket album and that little blue vice looks really handy. I hear you about the amount of Dragon parts. That’s why I decided to do the academy stug 4 for a warm up first.
My stug is coming along just fine mostly done with the only wheels painted. I have spent a lot of time filling pin marks !
I’ll post the pics as soon as I can it’s fine scale modelers fault but there trying to figure it out.
Gammera. The M-10 is coming along nicely. I would like to try a white wash at some point. Looks challenging.
I don’t remember wherein/when I came across the vice , it may have been Micro Mark but what I like about it is that it doesn’t damage the plastic and it’ll make a seal on a flat surface for stability. I think it was pretty cheap and its one of those things I use all the time. I think it was under $10, and actually I wouldn’t mind having another one. You could use them together to hold a part from both ends, I haven’t seen anything like that before.
What Stug kit do you have, I hate pin marks but mostly there in those areas that won’t be seen.
Jibber: Sounds cool, looking forward to seeing how she comes out.
Blackdog: Thanks! The Stug sounds pretty cool! The whitewash is pretty easy if I may I’ll link Clemon’s article here again where he explains step by step how to do it.
BTW guys- many of the whitewashs both Axis and Allied seem to have been applied by dumping buckets over the vehicle and then using something like a broom to spread it around. Neatness is not an issue here- the more sloppy the more accurate it looks!!!
Yeah, that bucket “technique” was the fastest and easiest method to get that white paint where you wanted it. That’s why Vallejo’s white is perfect for the job: It is easy to remove (the main reason for choosing it) and it sprays downright horribly compared to, let’s say Gunze’s white paint. That creates a blotchy, slightly messy looking layer of white paint…
Jibber. I’m building the academy stug 4 as my first build for this GB something to warm up before I take on my second build here which is the Dragon marder 2 .
Yep that vice would be nice and like you said 2 would probably be better.
Gamers. Thanks for that thread I saved it for later. I think that model just won an award not long ago.
This is the closest vice I could find compared to mine, I found it on Ebay for $24. I thought I picked mine up from Micro Mark for $10 or so but I still can’t find it. This one actually looks a little nicer, built stronger and it rotates. I think I’ll pu one myself. I have a couple of the flexible claw end types that I use on occasion but this one I use quite often. I just used it tonight after painting the main gun for my Marder III.
Terry
Sorry here it is
[/URL[URL=http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/kingtiger11/media/Marder%20III/Marder%20III%20Dragon/DSC00206_zpsff20469d.jpg.html]I was able to get a little more work done, tracks are ready and I have a base coat of XF60 with a 25% mix of Tamiya XF66 Lt Grey applied. I’m working on the interior and painting smaller pieces such as the radio, ammo rounds etc then I’ll finish up the tracks and start assembly.
I’m going to look for one of those vices. I have a assorted collection of claps a helping hand. A vice would be nice.
The marder is looking great. What color is that you used for dark yellow ? I went with model masters panzer dunkelgelb 1943 which has a strong over tone of green. My first completed model in the last 20 plus is the fw-190d I just finished over in the fw-190 3013 GB,
That’s why I started on the academy stug4 first. Something easy so I don’t destroy my Dragon kits. The Dragon looks intimidating but looking forward to starting it.
Jibber: Looks good! Seems like shes ready for you to mount the gun and shields.
Sorry I’m falling behind a little here, but the tracks on the M10 are giving me fits. Maybe I should have sprung for some replacement ones since the kit ones seem about two or three links too short and I have to stretch them to mount. They’re the glueable kind but keep breaking - I may end up stapling them in the end.
Thats unbelievable they could sell a kit shorting you on track, that would drive me crazy. I still have some painting to do before I’m ready to build. Getting there…
Blackdog a lot of guys use MM Dunkelgelb, but I prefer to spray with Tamiya acrylics. You can thin out Dark Yellow (XF60) or add another color like Lt. Grey (XF66) or some Buff (XF57) to it in small amounts. In this case I added XF66 at about 25% to my Dark Yellow (XF60) 75%. I believe theres no perfect color for all vehicles and that they vary quite a bit, so I like changing hues a little so all my vehicles aren’t exactly alike. You can’t go wrong with Dark Yellow (Dunkelgelb) in either acrylic or enamel.
On the Dragon kits, study the plans and get familiar with the parts. They can be complicated but if you know what you want to do ahead of time, you usually have a couple options on a particular part or subassembly. Just do it, whats the worse thing that could happen, destroy a $40 kit, who hasn’t??
LOL that’s true I destroyed a few in the past.
I did a test on the bottom of my stug using the model masters dunkelgelb and and 2 tamiya dark yellow and I think desert sand. I picked the greener one dew to I’m only going to use olivgrun as camo over the top. I’m trying for a spring or early summer greenish look.
But I also plan on using different ones to break up the look on the shelf.
20 something yrs ago or more in modelling if it was german your options where dark grey and light grey.
I remember as a kid watching Patton and in part he tells his men lets go get those green clothed bas…ds ! I was thinking german green cloths what the heck is he talking about.
Even in all the old movies dark grey. Or light grey.